Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I ended up installing the BoostAuotParts wireless charger over the weekend. Their install video was great. I suck at drilling plastic apparently. Luckily that's hidden and I was able to salvage with a file and razor blade. 

The only knock I have is that it resets/turns on every time the truck starts, including from the auto stop. So changing mode to mode 2 or turning it off is pointless until it's going to be sitting a while. I might put a switch on it.

BAPWCb.jpg

BAPWC.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 7/24/2021 at 1:25 AM, Transient said:

Just got all the parts and will soon be joining the group of people that did the conversion

 

Good luck on the build.  I have ordered all the parts, except for the air duct (Part No. 23391625).  Where did you find that one?  Several dealers have told me that its on backorder with no available date, and have cancelled the order.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

Edited by Legal4u
Correction
Posted
18 hours ago, Legal4u said:

 

Good luck on the build.  I have ordered all the parts, except for the air duct (Part No. 23391625).  Where did you find that one?  Several dealers have told me that its on backorder with no available date, and have cancelled the order.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

You probably don't need the air duct unless you live in death valley. I ran mine without duct and it wasnt bad.  It is actually a little tricky to get to where duct plugs into hvac.  you have to remove glove boxes.  Could try without and see if you feel charger getting overly hot.

Posted
On 7/24/2021 at 1:25 AM, Transient said:

Just got all the parts and will soon be joining the group of people that did the conversion


Would be great to see pictures of your install if you’re willing to post. Especially interested to see how you route the air duct if you decide to install it. 
 

Also what hardware you use to attach the charging module to the console. There are 4 screws shown that attach the charger tray but I see nothing in the schematic for attaching the charging module to the tray. Does it just rest in the tray without any screws?

Posted
On 7/26/2021 at 8:06 PM, Legal4u said:

 

Good luck on the build.  I have ordered all the parts, except for the air duct (Part No. 23391625).  Where did you find that one?  Several dealers have told me that its on backorder with no available date, and have cancelled the order.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

The parts guy I use exclusively at the dealership by my house got it for me.  He knows not to cancel my orders. 

Posted
12 hours ago, Rally6.2RST said:

You probably don't need the air duct unless you live in death valley. I ran mine without duct and it wasnt bad.  It is actually a little tricky to get to where duct plugs into hvac.  you have to remove glove boxes.  Could try without and see if you feel charger getting overly hot.

I'm not too far away from Death Valley, and drive through the desert occasionally.  I'll let you know how it works out. 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Z06JPB said:


Would be great to see pictures of your install if you’re willing to post. Especially interested to see how you route the air duct if you decide to install it. 
 

Also what hardware you use to attach the charging module to the console. There are 4 screws shown that attach the charger tray but I see nothing in the schematic for attaching the charging module to the tray. Does it just rest in the tray without any screws?

I'll post up what I find out when I get to doing this project.  I've had a lot going on with family, and it affected my health.  I'm getting over it now, but probably won't be able to tackle the project until this weekend.  Wife thinks I may have contracted COVID based on my symptoms.  She's an advanced practice nurse, and may actually know what she's talking about, lol.  It's been a fun debate of her demanding I get tested, and me telling her to pound sand.  I've done what I would do with any illness -- isolated myself, slept a lot via frequent dosing of nyquil, and remained hydrated.

Posted

I finally got around to doing this install today, and I'm going to have to do it again.  I blindly took the part numbers that were given in this thread and placed an order with my parts guy.  He got everything I asked for, but one of them doesn't work for me -- the wiring harness.  The harness I ordered doesn't have the connections for SD card reader, so I lost my factory navigation that I upgraded to and installed a few months ago.  Doing some research I found out there's about 4 or 5 different wire harnessed that got used in this area.  You either do have rear heated seats, or don't.  You either do have a wireless phone charger, or you don't.  But, there's nothing mentioned about the SD card in the bin under the armrest.  Finding the correct harness will take a little effort.  Fortunately, I love redundancies.  Not only do I have Android Auto to help me l navigate me, but a recent update from Chevy provided those without navigation a navigation system that doesn't require the SD card and programs module.  It's called Chevy Maps+.  Iirc, I found it in the marketplace where you can add other apps to your radio screen.  It's actually a pretty good navigation system, and gives those with IOS radios but not the fancy instrument cluster the speed limit of the road, and your speed, right there on the navigation screen.

 

Sorry about going off into left field there.  Back on topic....

 

This project is more fun than I cared for.  I'm debating whether or not I want to install the hvac tube, but that's minor compared to this project requiring the removal of the entire center console and the front passenger seat.  Yep, you read that right.  When I finally get the correct harness, and go to install it, I'll try to get a bunch of pics and do a write up, including what tools I use.  The good news there aren't many tools needed, and it's not a tough project.

 

As for questions about the charging module being secured, the answer is it just sits in the tray.  However, the tray gets secured to the top cover via screws underneath.  I just happened to have screws small enough and short enough sitting around that I was able to secure everything together. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Update:  I definitely need to get the hvac tube installed.  Went 4 wheeling in the truck today.  Had my phone sitting in the charger for several hours.  It ended up getting hot, both my phone and the charger.  And, it was over 100° in the area I was 4 wheeling, however my truck had the ac blowing at 69° the entire time.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Transient said:

Update:  I definitely need to get the hvac tube installed.  Went 4 wheeling in the truck today.  Had my phone sitting in the charger for several hours.  It ended up getting hot, both my phone and the charger.  And, it was over 100° in the area I was 4 wheeling, however my truck had the ac blowing at 69° the entire time.


it will be interesting to see what it takes to install the tube. Appreciate your willingness to be the test subject. 

Posted

So I got everything working but the air duct.  I could not figure out where it goes.

Anybody got pictures of where it's supposed to go, or how it connects?  

Would greatly appreciate it.

Posted
16 minutes ago, Mcropper514 said:

So I got everything working but the air duct.  I could not figure out where it goes.

Anybody got pictures of where it's supposed to go, or how it connects?  

Would greatly appreciate it.

you need to pull out glove box.  on the hvac body there is a white plug(i think) in the hole.  pull plug and that is where it goes.

Posted
1 hour ago, Rally6.2RST said:

you need to pull out glove box.  on the hvac body there is a white plug(i think) in the hole.  pull plug and that is where it goes.

 

Top or Bottom?

I tried to take the bottom one out but couldn't get it to come out. 

I pushed in the tabs and got it to hang down but couldn't figure out how to remove it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/1/2021 at 12:42 AM, Transient said:

I finally got around to doing this install today, and I'm going to have to do it again.  I blindly took the part numbers that were given in this thread and placed an order with my parts guy.  He got everything I asked for, but one of them doesn't work for me -- the wiring harness.  The harness I ordered doesn't have the connections for SD card reader, so I lost my factory navigation that I upgraded to and installed a few months ago.  Doing some research I found out there's about 4 or 5 different wire harnessed that got used in this area.  You either do have rear heated seats, or don't.  You either do have a wireless phone charger, or you don't.  But, there's nothing mentioned about the SD card in the bin under the armrest.  Finding the correct harness will take a little effort.  Fortunately, I love redundancies.  Not only do I have Android Auto to help me l navigate me, but a recent update from Chevy provided those without navigation a navigation system that doesn't require the SD card and programs module.  It's called Chevy Maps+.  Iirc, I found it in the marketplace where you can add other apps to your radio screen.  It's actually a pretty good navigation system, and gives those with IOS radios but not the fancy instrument cluster the speed limit of the road, and your speed, right there on the navigation screen.

 

Sorry about going off into left field there.  Back on topic....

 

This project is more fun than I cared for.  I'm debating whether or not I want to install the hvac tube, but that's minor compared to this project requiring the removal of the entire center console and the front passenger seat.  Yep, you read that right.  When I finally get the correct harness, and go to install it, I'll try to get a bunch of pics and do a write up, including what tools I use.  The good news there aren't many tools needed, and it's not a tough project.

 

As for questions about the charging module being secured, the answer is it just sits in the tray.  However, the tray gets secured to the top cover via screws underneath.  I just happened to have screws small enough and short enough sitting around that I was able to secure everything together. 

 

Did you ever figure out which harness you needed? I have the same issue. Harness I ordered has all the plugs needed except the one for the center console USB ports/SD reader

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...