Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Jennifer T., Gregory and the rest of the "GM Customer Care" gang take a look at these posts(I have more on other sites) of people trading in their new 2014's and relate that your supervisors.

GM DOES NOT CARE they have bigger fish to fry - such as profit margins - as long as the Silverado secret is out there and they have the wool pulled over the NHTSA eyes there will be nothing done. They should bill the Silverado as the first truck built exclusively for the ladies - we have models that will please any woman from bumper to bumper we assure you the largest vibrator on the road ;)

 

Just throwing more fuel on the fire

  • Like 2
Posted

Mine never got fixed and when my original sales man blew me off for asking about GM Buyback and Lemon Law info I left and picked this up.....

2y2uda7u.jpg

 

 

So if anyone is interested I have a corsa sport exhaust for sale. Fits double cab standard bed.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

You'll be happy with the performance of that EB. It's fun to drive.

Posted

Yea until he goes to pass on a two lane and says uh oh no boost. Ill put up with a little V4 shake knowing the power will be there when needed. I also found a little less tire pressure goes a long way.

Posted

Yea until he goes to pass on a two lane and says uh oh no boost. Ill put up with a little V4 shake knowing the power will be there when needed. I also found a little less tire pressure goes a long way.

Yeah the power is a little less. Not enough in my opinion to total disregard the engine. My shakes are not related to V4/V8 switching.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

Posted

Yeah the power is a little less. Not enough in my opinion to total disregard the engine. My shakes are not related to V4/V8 switching.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

I was making reference to the early problems they were having with the EB with power loss. In my field I have lots of costumers who rack up the miles in there trucks, when something new comes along they buy it. Some of them went back to V8 ford or GM, Im not hearing the problems now with their trucks like Im reading here, these are people with higher average miles who pretty much work their trucks off road.
Posted (edited)

The early ecoboosts did have a lot of engine problems but I haven't heard much about the last couple of years having problems. They may have worked out all of the kinks now I dunno, but personally I would have gone with the V8. Why? Because it's available and it doesn't have AFM. I would get a GM truck without AFM if I could too. I just like standard V8's in trucks when they're available.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • Like 1
Posted

They supposedly fixed most of the Ecobust engine issues, but I still do not fully trust that engine. Too complicated for long term reliability in my opinion.

Posted

They supposedly fixed most of the Ecobust engine issues, but I still do not fully trust that engine. Too complicated for long term reliability in my opinion.

Yeah AFM is 7 years old on GM trucks and I'm still walking on eggshells waiting for it to burn oil or throw a lifter or something.

Posted

Mine never got fixed and when my original sales man blew me off for asking about GM Buyback and Lemon Law info I left and picked this up.....

2y2uda7u.jpg

 

 

So if anyone is interested I have a corsa sport exhaust for sale. Fits double cab standard bed.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

So did you trade or buy back? Headlights any better than the '14s? Seats?

Posted (edited)

Trade. I paid 35k for the Silverado got 30k for trade with 9000 miles on it. The ford has the HID's and they are nice. Very wide pattern, and they are bi-xenon. High beams senda very good high and centered pattern. Glad I have HID's again. My Chevy was just halogens. Seats are sweet, more comfortable then my Silverado 40/20/40. Wife says that "in the ford you sit in the seat, in the Chevy you sit on the seat". If that makes any sense to you guys.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

Edited by anthony2558
Posted

I'm just now discovering this thread. My previous gripes have been posted in the "2014 Owners with Issues" thread. This topic is my biggest issue with my 2014 Sierra All Terrain, but still one of many. It's a $50K truck that rides like a 1950's truck. The steering wheel and seat vibration from about 40-65 mph is utterly frustrating and absolutely not acceptable by anyone's standards. Mine is currently at the dealership for this and multiple other recall or warranty related issues. However, based on reading many pages of this thread I have no confidence there will be a fix for my (our) problem. To validate it further; the dealer gave me a loaner truck with 161 miles on the odometer. It has the exact same vibration and unsteady feel. I'm thinking this is a problem that runs throughout the new GM truck platform and they clearly know about it, but have no idea how to fix it, nor are they really concerned about doing so. It's easy for them to use the standard response of; "vehicle rides and performs as designed", therefore claiming the trucks are working fine by their standards in an attempt to avoid any liability. They know it's not something that'll cause physical harm to the drivers/passengers, therefore they have no worries about fatality lawsuits on this issue, unlike the other mess they're in right now.

 

The sad thing is that if 90% of us would've known about this issue before buying our trucks, then Ford/Ram/Toyota sales would've shown major growth because there would be about 500,000 less new GM trucks on the road right now.
I'll post my results upon getting mine back from the dealer, but my expectations of a resolution are virtually none. Mine is a 4wd CC, and the loaner is a 2wd CC, both with identical ride issues. That alone shows this problem is rampant across the new platform.

Posted

Yea until he goes to pass on a two lane and says uh oh no boost. Ill put up with a little V4 shake knowing the power will be there when needed. I also found a little less tire pressure goes a long way.

I owned a 2011 EB and never had that problem. When you need to get out and pass you'd better hold on. Don't know about your case but that is NOT the norm, pal.

Posted

What was your trucks build date? Mine was assembled July 2013 in Ft. Wayne, Indiana , and I have similar vibrations (3.08 gears). Perhaps this is where my problem is also. Did they reinstall your original prop shaft?

 

January 2014

Ft Wayne, IN

3.42 gears

 

Honestly, I'm not sure if they reinstalled the original prop shaft.

I assume that they did, but the service report does not distinctly say it.

Posted

Bowflygsp: did the dealer ever apologize for trying to run you off and then oh we fixed it bs they pulled.

 

No, not at all.

The shop foreman that I guess I insulted never said another word to me after our lil heated exchange.

The service manager was ok, I guess, and the service specialist was pretty friendly.

After they had swapped tires five times, swapped the drive shaft and finally found the ring and pinion to be out of spec, they tried to give the truck back to me until the new ring and pinion came in. They knew I had to go out of state for a couple weeks and the 'loaner' couldn't leave the state of Georgia.

I basically refused to drive from Georgia to northern Michigan in a truck that they admit was out of spec.

So they paid for my rental for two and half weeks and my truck was ready to go when I got back home.

The service manager acted a little pissed about this, but if they just would've fixed it the first time I took it in instead of trying blow smoke up my ass, it wouldn't have been an issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
    • I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]
    • Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L.  400SS.
    • You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...