Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

. Thought I read somewhere stating some people having troubles with the 15s vibrating

I knew somebody was going to say this eventually, man I hope your wrong.

Posted

I knew somebody was going to say this eventually, man I hope your wrong.

I hope you are wrong too. I have my 2015 order in now. I think there was a post somewhere on here about how the 2015 Heavy-Duty's had a vibration/shake issues.....but that was only one rogue post. I believe.

Posted

Well, I've sort of fixed my 2014 Chevy Viberado LT with the 5.3 EcoTick engine. I put the "V" back on for Vibrator. Im surely it was on there before I took the test drive, but must've shaken off when I hit 70+ mph, and never noticed it. :thumbs:

 

tn_gallery_133487_2913_1146631.jpg

Posted

I have a 2013 so I don't have a shake issue, but, my frame and cross members is rusted much more than I would like. After seeing the pics above I was wondering if any of you guys have looked under your truck and have similar issues with rust? I did a google search and its all over the internet but I dont see it discussed here.

 

When I was researching trucks, I would look under the Fords, Rams and Chevys. From my sampling, the Fords and Rams had a TON of rust on them (new trucks) just sitting on the lot. The Chevys had the least. (I'm aware of the frame rust issue, I just haven't seen it from my sampling). My old 2000 Tahoe was almost rust free.

 

I do plan to spend some time touching up any minor spots on my new truck. Just because I like to see it clean/rust free. (Even if I'm the only one that will ever see it.)

Posted

 

When I was researching trucks, I would look under the Fords, Rams and Chevys. From my sampling, the Fords and Rams had a TON of rust on them (new trucks) just sitting on the lot. The Chevys had the least. (I'm aware of the frame rust issue, I just haven't seen it from my sampling). My old 2000 Tahoe was almost rust free.

 

I do plan to spend some time touching up any minor spots on my new truck. Just because I like to see it clean/rust free. (Even if I'm the only one that will ever see it.)

The frame of my 2013 looks like its 50 years old. Its bad.

Posted

I hope you are wrong too. I have my 2015 order in now. I think there was a post somewhere on here about how the 2015 Heavy-Duty's had a vibration/shake issues.....but that was only one rogue post. I believe.

 

 

One guy that bought a 2015 HD Denali 3 months ago has a vibration on dieselplace.com, guys with HD's on this site have had the issue also.

Posted

Just want to chime in; 14' z71 Regular cab (built 7/14) on the GY SRA's and I am pretty sure I have caught a case of the shakes. Truck seemed fine first couple hundred miles, but I now jiggle like a worm anytime I hit smooth pavement at 70+. The issue does not seem too pronounced at lower speeds but I can almost use 70 mph as an on switch for the vibrator. The odd thing is that the shake is not felt in the steering wheel just the frame, either way another fun scheduled dealer visit I suppose.

Posted

Seems like the late build are vibration free. Have yet to see anyone with a late build complain.

 

Mine built in July 2014 hasn't vibrated yet. I'm at approx 650 miles.

Posted

For those that had the vibration issues fixed with tires, what kind of vibration problems did you have?

 

For me, I feel I have multiple issues, because I have some constant low frequency vibrations that feel like small rumble strips at 50mph (I feel this is steering wheel, gas pedal, floor), then a more intense pulsing vibration that happens at 65-70 (mainly feel this in gas pedal only), and finally I have a vibration that literally shakes the truck back and forth where I notice my center console/cup holders shaking left/right when I am driving at 80-85.

 

Which vibration type did the tires fix?

Posted

My truck with the 6.2 max trailering pack has that shutter also on hard acceleration in first and second gear, mine also has a tranny pump whining noise that is loud when the tranny is cold and gets a little better as the tranny warms up. Does yours have the whining noise?

My first truck whined so bad and vibrated. My newer one, almost no whine, no vibration
Posted

 

Mine built in July 2014 hasn't vibrated yet. I'm at approx 650 miles.

Some start at 10k plus... Who knows? I wish u good luck... Hope u knocked on wood after u typed that
Posted

I have a 2013 so I don't have a shake issue, but, my frame and cross members is rusted much more than I would like. After seeing the pics above I was wondering if any of you guys have looked under your truck and have similar issues with rust? I did a google search and its all over the internet but I dont see it discussed here.

Several topics here and a tsb to fix.
Posted

Some start at 10k plus... Who knows? I wish u good luck... Hope u knocked on wood after u typed that

 

I wasn't triumphantly stating that mine didn't do it.

 

Simply stating my build date and mileage for data purposes.

Posted (edited)

 

I wasn't triumphantly stating that mine didn't do it.

 

Simply stating my build date and mileage for data purposes.

I was saying in other words, you're lucky. I was one of the few who went through 30 days of my truck in a shop to have it "bought back". I gave them another shot because in love the way these new trucks look. My first had new tires, a set of tires off another truck in the lot, 3 shafts, a complete rear end(including rotors/calipers), engine shims, and about 40 hours of my time back and forth to the dealer, test rides ect. I've tried shifting to neutral, driving in M5, m4, and all this to never fix it. I even bought a bunch of sand at Home Depot to test for frame beaming... Weight in the bed made NO difference at all. The dealer pushed GM for trade in assistance cash so they didn't have to work on it anymore... On top of the vibration, my headlamps were always foggy, my seat moved, uneven tailgate cables, HVAC lights didn't work, 3rd brake light didn't have an illuminated switch that worked, exhaust squeaked going from v4-v8... My new truck had the slightest vibration, and after I put my nittos on, 7500 miles of smoothness. My only issue with the second is the seat started moving at 8700. Edited by 20Bowtie14
Posted

I was saying in other words, you're lucky. I was one of the few who went through 30 days of my truck in a shop to have it "bought back". I gave them another shot because in love the way these new trucks look. My first had new tires, a set of tires off another truck in the lot, 3 shafts, a complete rear end(including rotors/calipers), engine shims, and about 40 hours of my time back and forth to the dealer, test rides ect. I've tried shifting to neutral, driving in M5, m4, and all this to never fix it. I even bought a bunch of sand at Home Depot to test for frame beaming... Weight in the bed made NO difference at all. The dealer pushed GM for trade in assistance cash so they didn't have to work on it anymore... On top of the vibration, my headlamps were always foggy, my seat moved, uneven tailgate cables, HVAC lights didn't work, 3rd brake light didn't have an illuminated switch that worked, exhaust squeaked going from v4-v8... My new truck had the slightest vibration, and after I put my nittos on, 7500 miles of smoothness. My only issue with the second is the seat started moving at 8700.

 

 

 

Talk about unlucky. Trust me I read all these problems before I picked mine up last week and just sorta said **** it, and am hoping for the best.

 

Believe me though, I am driving around just listening or feeling, waiting for things to go wrong. In hindsight, I probably should have just bought a different truck.

 

 

Again, hoping it works out for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...