Shake or Vibration Issues

nadrojcote · July 27, 2015

I'm really considering a Ram right now too. There's a lot of pluses with a Ram, I'm just not sold on the exterior look. The interior on the other hand is solid. No creaks or rattles in any new ram I've been in, yet our k2's seems to become rattle traps over time. Also the seats don't shift or clunk and the throttle response is great. Not to mention anyone who bought an older ram still has a truck that looks like a current model. GM went and screwed us on our resale value by refreshing the look after two years. Lastly the ride quality is hands down better in a ram, absorbs bumps and expansion joints like nothing. Even without a lift these k2's feel every imperfection in the road.

Edited July 27, 2015 by projectsummit

Bdkfl · July 27, 2015

I'm really considering a Ram right now too. There's a lot of pluses with a Ram, I'm just not sold on the exterior look. The interior on the other hand is solid. No creaks or rattles in any new ram I've been in, yet our k2's seems to become rattle traps over time. Also the seats don't shift or clunk and the throttle response is great. Not to mention anyone who bought an older ram still has a truck that looks like a current model. GM went and screwed us on our resale value by refreshing the look after two years. Lastly the ride quality is hands down better in a ram, absorbs bumps and expansion joints like nothing. Even without a lift these k2's feel every imperfection in the road.

I had a 2014 and traded it in for my Chevy. The looks we're great but I HATED the ride. Although it was smooth, you got plastered to the sides on every turn. I have some tight abs from that truck! Haha!

mikegmi2 · July 27, 2015

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

Thank you all.

Sent from my iPhone

Yes, I have. I bought through GM Employee discount. If you are in the same boat, you MUST go through arbitration, as you signed a document when you purchased your vehicle saying you would never sue GM in court.

4 dealer trips is all it takes for your BBB case. After the 3rd, you should have contacted GM explaining they have 1 final repair attempt. Send the letter certified mail. Address to send is in the back of your owners manual. They will contact dealer and setup a date. After that repair attempt and problem still persists, you'll contact your BBB agent explaining, and from there an arbitration date will be setup.

Literally a day or 2 before your set arbitration date, GM will call you and offer a full MSRP trade assist...so if you find the exact same truck, you get it for free. If you find one with additional options, you pay the difference. I put 12.5k miles on my 2014 and didn't pay a dime for it other than the trips to the dealer and time...now I have a 2015.

Make sure you keep all records of dealer trips, service reports, etc., as you will need these for your BBB case. Your BBB agent should help you through the process. Good luck.

TheFactor · July 27, 2015

I can't believe that there haven't been recalls for a lot of the issues with these trucks. There are known steering column issues with our trucks too. The problem with the Ram's is that they failed to fix the issue. GM seems to be failing at fixing the vibration issue, which in my opinion is a pretty big deal. Can't say a truck that shakes its way down the road is a safe vehicle to drive.

Couldn't agree more and well said , if I'm going to crash I'd rather have it happen fast then to vibrate my way off the road and I can enjoy the ride before it happens instead of being frustrated every time I got in my truck and started vibrating between 20 and 30 mph lol .

This Ram with the Hemi is such a joy to drive !

I was in the service area when picking up my new Ram and was talking to this guy that had a Ram going on 5 years with no issues and all he's done is changed the oil and plugs and as matter of fact he liked it so much he bought another but kept his other one because it's been so good to him .That says a lot right there ??

Edited July 27, 2015 by TheFactor

mikegmi2 · July 27, 2015

Yes, so basically the District Sales Manager authorized $4000 "assistance" brining my trade in to the dealer to $37,000. Still.... A new truck is around $49k (for identical SLT) and with GM incentives plus my trade value and taxes, I'm at about $4000 difference.

I guess I'll see if I can convince them to shorten that gap.

Anyone GONE THRU arbitration? As anther Florida member mentioned, lemon laws are similar here in NH. You have to go thru Arbitration via BBB.

Sent from my iPhone

Yes, me...see my previous post. GM forces you to go through the entire BBB process...but once the arbitration date comes up, they call you and give up without a fight. Pretty cowardly and stubborn making people go through all that just to give up in the end.

The good part is, you get to drive around a free truck for the months you wait for the BBB and arbitration date stuff...

Keep all service report documents, follow the BBB process, and force GM to give you a free truck. It DOES WORK.

TheFactor · July 27, 2015

The trucks involved were from 2009 to 2011

Good to know !

rpoffen · July 27, 2015

Good to know !

This is from msn money..

Models included in the buyback offer are certain Ram 1500s from 2009 to 2012; the Ram 1500 Mega Cab 4 by 4 from 2008; and the Ram 2500 4 by 4, 3500 4 by 4, 4500 4 by 4, and 5500 4 by 4, all from 2008 through 2012. Also part of the offer are 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango SUVs and the Dodge Dakota pickup from 2009 through 2011.

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Britt Lifsey · July 27, 2015

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Oh my yes! A friend had one in high school. We were gathering for a backyard football game at a practice field and as I was pulling in behind him in my '68 Bug, my brake line split. I ran into rear of that Pinto doing maybe 5mph but I just knew it was going to blow and end it all for me.

Bdkfl · July 28, 2015

Yes, me...see my previous post. GM forces you to go through the entire BBB process...but once the arbitration date comes up, they call you and give up without a fight. Pretty cowardly and stubborn making people go through all that just to give up in the end.

The good part is, you get to drive around a free truck for the months you wait for the BBB and arbitration date stuff...

Keep all service report documents, follow the BBB process, and force GM to give you a free truck. It DOES WORK.

Technically it's not free, I've been paying my stupid payments on time when due up until now and will have to continue to do so until they decide to change it. If they decide to reimburse some of my payments THEN it's free! I don't see how getting car sick every single day on the highway for 45 mins each way is worth it. I'm beyond pissed off with my vehicle. Also, did they do a change of collateral or did you refinance the new VIN? I don't want to have to take out a new loan. I'd rather keep paying the original one off. We reopened our case last Monday after our final repair attempt and haven't heard a peep from GM. I'm assuming we'll get an arbitration date Friday or Monday. Here's to hoping!

jmckeone · July 28, 2015

Hey all...new to the forum and wanted to post my situation. I have a '14 Silverado Rally with around 8k miles on it. I have an annoying vibration from 70-80mph which you can feel in the seat and see the center console shake like crazy. I recently took it to the dealer and was told the techs cannot drive the car faster than 55mph which doesnt help me. They drove it anyway and claim they felt the vibration, they load balanced the tires saying 3 of them were off 1 oz. I received the call that it was ready for pickup and the vibration seemed to be "better".....again they didn’t sound too confident. Needless to say its still there and re-balancing the tires did nothing. Im going to take it in again but I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I can force them to drive it on the highway at the speeds where the vibration actually occurs.....I dont want to hear the 55mph BS excuse again. Im really bummed as this is the first new truck I have ever owned, Ive been buying used all my life. I traded in a 2002 silverado with 200k miles that drove smoother.

Thanks in advance!

Jim

Enforcer · July 28, 2015

Hey all...new to the forum and wanted to post my situation. I have a '14 Silverado Rally with around 8k miles on it. I have an annoying vibration from 70-80mph which you can feel in the seat and see the center console shake like crazy. I recently took it to the dealer and was told the techs cannot drive the car faster than 55mph which doesnt help me. They drove it anyway and claim they felt the vibration, they load balanced the tires saying 3 of them were off 1 oz. I received the call that it was ready for pickup and the vibration seemed to be "better".....again they didn’t sound too confident. Needless to say its still there and re-balancing the tires did nothing. Im going to take it in again but I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I can force them to drive it on the highway at the speeds where the vibration actually occurs.....I dont want to hear the 55mph BS excuse again. Im really bummed as this is the first new truck I have ever owned, Ive been buying used all my life. I traded in a 2002 silverado with 200k miles that drove smoother.

Thanks in advance!

Jim

Welcome to the forum Jim,

We all know how you feel...Really we do !

Go right to the service manager, or owner otherwise find a different store ;)

DO NOT LET THEM BS YOU ! ! !

All of the posts here are not because we can't something better to do.

TheFactor · July 28, 2015

This is from msn money..

Models included in the buyback offer are certain Ram 1500s from 2009 to 2012; the Ram 1500 Mega Cab 4 by 4 from 2008; and the Ram 2500 4 by 4, 3500 4 by 4, 4500 4 by 4, and 5500 4 by 4, all from 2008 through 2012. Also part of the offer are 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango SUVs and the Dodge Dakota pickup from 2009 through 2011.

The Jeep issue is different, it is about the fuel tank being located too far to the rear, making it vulnerable in rear end crashes (anybody remember the Ford Pinto?)

Thanks for the Info ??

mikegmi2 · July 28, 2015

Technically it's not free, I've been paying my stupid payments on time when due up until now and will have to continue to do so until they decide to change it. If they decide to reimburse some of my payments THEN it's free! I don't see how getting car sick every single day on the highway for 45 mins each way is worth it. I'm beyond pissed off with my vehicle. Also, did they do a change of collateral or did you refinance the new VIN? I don't want to have to take out a new loan. I'd rather keep paying the original one off. We reopened our case last Monday after our final repair attempt and haven't heard a peep from GM. I'm assuming we'll get an arbitration date Friday or Monday. Here's to hoping!

I paid cash for the truck so the dealership handled the title transfer and all I needed to do was sign some paperwork. My situation was fairly painless as far as exchanging trucks.

nadrojcote · July 28, 2015

Lots of us have been discovering that our rear axle u-bolts are not tightened to spec. This causes the yoke clunk and it feels like the transmission is slipping.

Has anyone tried to tighten their u-bolts to see if it would reduce the vibration? they should apparently be at 78ft/lb and some guys are able to get a couple turns out of them before the torque wrench clicks. Very possible this would make the rear axle have some play in it, and could cause a vibration.

Bdkfl · July 28, 2015

I paid cash for the truck so the dealership handled the title transfer and all I needed to do was sign some paperwork. My situation was fairly painless as far as exchanging trucks.

That makes sense!