Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

yojo Enthusiast

yojo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I haven't posted on this for a while..My 14 sierra reg cab 4.3 2wd 61,000 miles 17" wheels. Still has the shakes, GM did give me a credit (1000.00) to purchase Michelins thru a dealer. what got me back on this is yesterday I worked on a friends truck..1994 chevy work truck  327,000 miles with original ball joints and my truck wasn't that nice riding when it had 17 miles on it, according to my dealer its the flatspots from sitting on the lot...(sat for about 2 weeks before I bought it). And my 02 Silverado that had 174,000 when I traded it in was like driving a Cadillac compared to this one. Oh well thanks for listening

to me vent..Its been awhile!

 

Edited by yojo
  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Leevon said:

Bought a '17 Sierra regular cab in December...came equipped with factory highway shake (bad).  

Was that "factory highway shake" standard equipment or an option?

Leevon Enthusiast

Leevon

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, pm26 said:

Was that "factory highway shake" standard equipment or an option?

Apparently it's a "surprise" option, installed randomly.  I wasn't even aware of the option before I bought the truck, figured it out on the long drive home.  

wmadden Enthusiast

wmadden

Posted
Posted

Okay, so we're 797 pages into this thread and GM obviously isn't going to do anything to fix the problem... I have two vehicles, '17 Denali crew cab and a '16 Denali Yukon XL both with the shimmy/studder.  How many of you are planning to trade in for a '19 with the new design, or are you done with GM and going another brand?... and if so, what are you looking to move to?

contenderv07 Enthusiast

contenderv07

Posted
Posted

looks like I'm part of this "club" too... I've got 1k miles on it and about 68-73 mph I get a little bit of a wobble. Steering wheel is a little off center so I'm hoping its just that

calvic Enthusiast

calvic

Posted
Posted

I wonder if this symptom is unique to short bed trucks.  My 2015  GMC  2500  4 x 4 with Duramax

Diesel long bed truck with 25k miles is smooth as glass. No vibes,  best truck I’ve ever owned and I’ve owned all three brands.

Willyone Enthusiast

Willyone

Posted
Posted
On ‎7‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 8:07 PM, yojo said:

I haven't posted on this for a while..My 14 sierra reg cab 4.3 2wd 61,000 miles 17" wheels. Still has the shakes, GM did give me a credit (1000.00) to purchase Michelins thru a dealer. what got me back on this is yesterday I worked on a friends truck..1994 chevy work truck  327,000 miles with original ball joints and my truck wasn't that nice riding when it had 17 miles on it, according to my dealer its the flatspots from sitting on the lot...(sat for about 2 weeks before I bought it). And my 02 Silverado that had 174,000 when I traded it in was like driving a Cadillac compared to this one. Oh well thanks for listening

to me vent..Its been awhile!

 

Same here. My '07 Sierra before buying my current '16 Chebby shaker was a great riding and driving truck, but turning into a rust bucket.  I feel violated #metoo LOL.  Not funny at all but wtf, GM isn't stepping up... 

Willyone Enthusiast

Willyone

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, wmadden said:

Okay, so we're 797 pages into this thread and GM obviously isn't going to do anything to fix the problem... I have two vehicles, '17 Denali crew cab and a '16 Denali Yukon XL both with the shimmy/studder.  How many of you are planning to trade in for a '19 with the new design, or are you done with GM and going another brand?... and if so, what are you looking to move to?

No way in hell I'll go for a '19.  That said, when the time comes to replace my '16 shaker I'll do in depth research before buying, which I did not do before buying my '16. 90% of the trucks I've had in the past 40 or so years have been GMs.  All but my current '16 were either trouble free or fixable.  Yeah I know, every brand has its issues and prolly every manufacturer might or will try and wiggle out of a warranty fix.  But GM has basically said flat out go fark yourself.

  • Like 2
Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, wmadden said:

Okay, so we're 797 pages into this thread and GM obviously isn't going to do anything to fix the problem... I have two vehicles, '17 Denali crew cab and a '16 Denali Yukon XL both with the shimmy/studder.  How many of you are planning to trade in for a '19 with the new design, or are you done with GM and going another brand?... and if so, what are you looking to move to?

For those planning on purchasing a 2019 T1  GMC or Chevy,  Make sure you get it up to about 100 on the highway during the test drive.

Then maybe the decision of staying loyal or jumping ship to another brand will be easier to make. Although I hear this happens with Ford and Ram as well. Not sure about Toyota or Nissan.

I have a slight shimmy/shake only between about 70-80mph and I only see it when I look over at the passenger seat moving if empty. No steering wheel or console shaking.

Nothing like some report here or videos I have seen.

Never did I get above about 65 on my test drive.

 

wmadden Enthusiast

wmadden

Posted
Posted

On our '16 Yukon XL Denali (60k miles), we noticed the shimmy at 80 mph when cruising down the interstate.  Started first with checking the rims and sure enough, all 22" rims had some sort of out of round condition.  The dealer had a matching set of 22s in stock with factory wheels that we had to purchase for $3000 and that fixed it.  Then came the drivetrain shudder at 1200-1500 rpm when at speed (50-60mph and coasting in 8th gear with AFM engaged) and the engine AFM is switching from 4 cyliinder to 8.  Both my Yukon and Sierra have this studder, which feels exactly like a slipping torque converter.  I've taken my Sierra (17,000 miles) to the dealer 5 times since 14,000 miles now.  They replaced the engine mounts, fixed a broken valve spring (wtf), flushed the tranny, replaced the torque converter, and reprogrammed the ECM to learn mode.  Both vehicles have the 6.2L with the 8 speed tranny.  I've driven them in manual to override the AFM and it doesn't seem to help.  It seems there are multiple issues, both electronic and powertrain-wise going on and I'm not confident they'll get it fixed.  There's a lot of ideas within this thread in how to fix with aftermarket parts, but it seems there are varying differences in what exactly each vehicles studder/shimmy/shake is.  I've been a die hard GM owner due to their reliability and I just think the quest for getting too cute in winning the mileage game with competitors has made the future of GM trucks an unreliable risk I'm not sure I'm willing to take, especially at the price tags we're paying for these vehicles.  I wish I had just kept my '06 Duramax and drove it into the ground.  

  • Like 1
wmadden Enthusiast

wmadden

Posted
Posted
57 minutes ago, th3r00st3r said:

So is this bulliten NOT the fix? https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=198437

Would like to know before I schedule a service. 

 on my 2016 Silverado LT Crew
Thannks!

Didn't work for either of my vehicles. In fact, on my Sierra, they flushed the tranny and it was worse after I left the dealer even though they reported to me that it was fixed. 

  • Sad 1
Pinnacle Enthusiast

Pinnacle

Posted
Posted
On 2018-07-18 at 7:56 AM, Leevon said:

Apparently it's a "surprise" option, installed randomly.  I wasn't even aware of the option before I bought the truck, figured it out on the long drive home.  

you have it on your 18 with zero miles on it?

 

contenderv07 Enthusiast

contenderv07

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

So is this a constant always at the same speed shake/vibration or does it come and go for people? 

mine doesn't start until it hits 70 mph, then until about 76 it starts to die down, but like someone else said, this shouldn't be happening to a 45k + vehicle, especially for how long they've known about it. I've got a 2018 with 1000 miles on it BTW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...