Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The vibration is in the aluminum driveshaft. I replaced mine in my 2017 LTZ 2WD with a steel two piece rated for a 3/4 ton truck. My truck has been smooth as silk at all speeds ever since. I'm approaching 10,000 miles on the driveshaft. Cost was under $800 from Performance Drivelines. Look them up and leave the Chevy Shake behind!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/20/2018 at 12:28 AM, Pinnacle said:

you have it on your 18 with zero miles on it?

 

Very minor, but yes I believe it has some sort of harmonic vibration.  The 17 GMC was bad.  

Posted
On 7/18/2018 at 1:02 PM, wmadden said:

Okay, so we're 797 pages into this thread and GM obviously isn't going to do anything to fix the problem... I have two vehicles, '17 Denali crew cab and a '16 Denali Yukon XL both with the shimmy/studder.  How many of you are planning to trade in for a '19 with the new design, or are you done with GM and going another brand?... and if so, what are you looking to move to?

Never buy a first year model which the 2019 Silverado 1500 is.  However, I my buy the 2020.  We shall see....

Posted
On 7/20/2018 at 4:40 PM, Bart’s Silverado said:

The vibration is in the aluminum driveshaft. I replaced mine in my 2017 LTZ 2WD with a steel two piece rated for a 3/4 ton truck. My truck has been smooth as silk at all speeds ever since. I'm approaching 10,000 miles on the driveshaft. Cost was under $800 from Performance Drivelines. Look them up and leave the Chevy Shake behind!

It sux that you have to fork out $800 to fix a problem that they are A: Aware of (based on the fact the settled with 1 truck owner for $13 and let him keep the vehicle, and one other owner they bought the truck back) and B: should be covered by the BTB warranty. Turns out, I took mine in last Friday morning only to have them tell me I was 150 miles over the warranty(36K they said could go to 39k and I was at 40,500) and would need $140 diagnostic. I also know the process and order of operations I would have to go through just to get to the point where they would finally either tell me "it's normal" or Lemon Law it. Is it worth it to stick it to them, or just trade it in for a different maker.

 

 

Posted
On 7/20/2018 at 4:32 PM, contenderv07 said:

mine doesn't start until it hits 70 mph, then until about 76 it starts to die down, but like someone else said, this shouldn't be happening to a 45k + vehicle, especially for how long they've known about it. I've got a 2018 with 1000 miles on it BTW

 

On 7/20/2018 at 12:32 PM, Roscopcoletrain said:

So is this a constant always at the same speed shake/vibration or does it come and go for people? 

The consensus seems to be between 70 and 80 mph. Mine is at 70mph to about 75-76. 
Going to initiate my extended warranty through my CU since the dealer told me I was 150 miles over the bumper to bumper. They must know they make crap otherwise they would have the Hyundai or Kia warranty of 10 years 100,000 and stand behind their product.

Posted
10 hours ago, th3r00st3r said:

 

The consensus seems to be between 70 and 80 mph. Mine is at 70mph to about 75-76. 
Going to initiate my extended warranty through my CU since the dealer told me I was 150 miles over the bumper to bumper. They must know they make crap otherwise they would have the Hyundai or Kia warranty of 10 years 100,000 and stand behind their product.

 

So it happens every time at roughly the same speed?  Its not something that shows up one day, gone the next? 

Posted
5 hours ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

 

So it happens every time at roughly the same speed?  Its not something that shows up one day, gone the next? 

No, it's pretty consistent across most of the threads.

Posted (edited)
On 10/29/2014 at 8:51 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

 

Yes me. And I can't pinpoint the cause. I suspect the tires are the problem. I noticed it mostly back in the spring and then it went away around June. Since then I haven't had any vibrations at all except for 2 specific instances driving to work in September. The fact that it comes and goes and seems to be related somewhat to the outside temperature has me leaning toward the tires. How long it sits without being driven is possibly affecting it too. The truck drives great otherwise when I don't feel the vibrations in the steering wheel.

 

I will add though in general, with the stiffer suspension on these trucks, I personally feel more of the road than I did in my 2007 Silverado and that's after driving 3 different 2014's that didn't have vibration issues. So while there are vibration problems that people are experiencing, I think the combination of the stiffer suspension and the electronic power steering together transmit road imperfections to the driver and passengers more than the GMT900's did.

 

You can see my truck specs below my avatar. I have Goodyear SR-A tires that came with the truck. As soon as they're ready to be replaced, I'm getting either Michelin AT2's or BFGoodrich T/A KO's.

Well 4 years later, I can confirm it was my tires.  I just put on BFG K02's in load range E last week and installed bilstein 5100 shocks and so far the truck drives great.  The tires are a little heavier now and you can feel that, but I don't feel vibrations in the steering wheel like I did with the Goodyears.  Of course, this means that in my case it was the tires and not everyone has the same type of vibration.  I do still think there are multiple types of vibration problems out there related to tires, the driveline, etc.  But for the folks with stock tires that suspect the tires are the culprit of your high speed 60MPH+ steering wheel vibration, it's likely your tires.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted
4 hours ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Well 4 years later, I can confirm it was my tires.  I just put on BFG K02's in load range E last week and installed bilstein 5100 shocks and so far the truck drives great.  The tires are a little heavier now and you can feel that, but I don't feel vibrations in the steering wheel like I did with the Goodyears.  Of course, this means that in my case it was the tires and not everyone has the same type of vibration.  I do still think there are multiple types of vibration problems out there related to tires, the driveline, etc.  But for the folks with stock tires that suspect the tires are the culprit of your high speed 60MPH+ steering wheel vibration, it's likely your tires.

You sir, got lucky. There are countless threads on here where people have changed one or more of their tires, rims, rear suspension, drive shafts and still have the issue. 
I said screw it, and took it in this morning for a tire balance and they said 3 of them were way out of balance. I'll start there and see if it helps.

Posted

yea thats the bad part.... I just bought my truck and I'd hate to possibly spend 1k in tires, or 800 for a new drive shaft, etc.. without knowing 100% what it is.  I did get my road force balance yesterday and it did help SOME, but still....

Posted
14 minutes ago, contenderv07 said:

yea thats the bad part.... I just bought my truck and I'd hate to possibly spend 1k in tires, or 800 for a new drive shaft, etc.. without knowing 100% what it is.  I did get my road force balance yesterday and it did help SOME, but still....

I know it’s easier said than done but if you just got yours, a tire shop should give you credit for your existing tires since they can resell them

Posted
18 hours ago, contenderv07 said:

yea thats the bad part.... I just bought my truck and I'd hate to possibly spend 1k in tires, or 800 for a new drive shaft, etc.. without knowing 100% what it is.  I did get my road force balance yesterday and it did help SOME, but still....

When I bought my truck, I bought new rims and tires for around $1400 and sold my stock rims and tires on offerup for $800, so it only cost me $600 for the upgrade.

Posted

Follow Up:

I took my truck to Firestone, since I was out of the GM 36k B2B Warranty, and paid $60 to have my tires balanced. Turns out 3 of them were pretty far out of balance. Since yesterday, It rides a lot smoother in the "Chevy Shake" speed range of 70-80mph.  I have a long road trip coming up this Friday and will report after I get back. Hopefully I am lucky that was it. 

Posted
5 hours ago, th3r00st3r said:

When I bought my truck, I bought new rims and tires for around $1400 and sold my stock rims and tires on offerup for $800, so it only cost me $600 for the upgrade.

I guess I need to see how much discount tire would give for them. I'm assuming the sooner the better:lol:

Posted
On 7/24/2018 at 11:19 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

Well 4 years later, I can confirm it was my tires.  I just put on BFG K02's in load range E last week and installed bilstein 5100 shocks and so far the truck drives great.  The tires are a little heavier now and you can feel that, but I don't feel vibrations in the steering wheel like I did with the Goodyears.  Of course, this means that in my case it was the tires and not everyone has the same type of vibration.  I do still think there are multiple types of vibration problems out there related to tires, the driveline, etc.  But for the folks with stock tires that suspect the tires are the culprit of your high speed 60MPH+ steering wheel vibration, it's likely your tires.

I Don't see how you can say it was the tires since you replaced the tires and the shocks, have you put the old shocks back on to see if the VIB comes back with the new tires.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...