Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

Willyone Enthusiast

Willyone

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Snoringbear said:

You and I have traveled similar paths when it comes to cars;  I’ve been driving a truck since 1975.  Bought a brand new standard cab long bed with in-line 6 engine.  Had am radio and dealer installed AC.  Everything else was standard, 3 on the tree, no power anything.  During the oil embargo hung a twenty gal saddle tank on the right side. Drove the piss out of that truck.  

 

Yes, very similar indeed. My 1st new truck was a 1974 1/2 ton, straight 6, 3 on the tree, AM, but with no AC, no power nuth'n, and 2WD.  1st visit was to my parents house to take dear old Dad for a ride. Trucks & Blazers and the like were not as much of a status symbol back then, most actually worked for a living. At least mine did. I was the only one in my circle of friends with a PU truck. Status symbol or not I believed/knew I had the coolest ride around (o:

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Willyone Enthusiast

Willyone

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Snoringbear said:

Tell you a funny story about my 6.2.  Not long after I bought it I decided to take it out on the interstate and see what it would do.  So, chose a stretch of road that was nice and straight with no traffic and put the petal to the metal. Well, my bad ass 6.2 took of like a striped ape.clicked through the numbers on the speedo at a rapid rate.  So, as it approached 100 mph I’m thinking Wow, I’m thinking this this thing might do 120 mph or more.  Then... the speedo hit 98 mph and the truck speed flattened out and would do no more.  So, I’m wondering what the heck just happen.  Big disappointment; big bad @$$ engine won’t even do 100?  Well, you know the rest of the story.  Come to find out the truck has a speed limiter set at 98 mph ?.  I since found out that youngsters often buy a tuner and remove the speed limiter setting.  But, being old and such never bothered ?...

 

I did the same soon after buying my 5.3. I don't remember if it made it to triple digits or not.  If so, it must not have been very memorable.  Do it!!... get the darn tuner LOL.  I have a set of cams sitting here waiting to get them installed in my Indian motorcycle.  I'd install them myself but a "special tool" that costs $450.00 is required. It's less than 1/2 that amount to have a dealer install the cams, 1.5 to 2 hour job as I understand it.  Funny you mention tuner, earlier today I ordered a tuner for the Indian from Fuelmoto.  The cams and tuner won't make it a rocket ship, especially by todays standards.  But it will have additional low end grunt, and should get the ol' adrenaline flowing.  Don't let the kids have all the fun ?

Edited by Willyone
  • 4 weeks later...
gat0r Enthusiast

gat0r

Posted
Posted
On 5/29/2020 at 1:03 PM, Snoringbear said:

Tell you a funny story about my 6.2.  Not long after I bought it I decided to take it out on the interstate and see what it would do.  So, chose a stretch of road that was nice and straight with no traffic and put the petal to the metal. Well, my bad ass 6.2 took of like a striped ape.clicked through the numbers on the speedo at a rapid rate.  So, as it approached 100 mph I’m thinking Wow, I’m thinking this this thing might do 120 mph or more.  Then... the speedo hit 98 mph and the truck speed flattened out and would do no more.  So, I’m wondering what the heck just happen.  Big disappointment; big bad @$$ engine won’t even do 100?  Well, you know the rest of the story.  Come to find out the truck has a speed limiter set at 98 mph ?.  I since found out that youngsters often buy a tuner and remove the speed limiter setting.  But, being old and such never bothered ?...

 

thats by design so we dont destroy the beer can of a driveshaft & take out fuel lines, fuel tank, etc  ?

amongst other possible tolerance stacking issues that they havent fixed yet

Jamesgierak Enthusiast

Jamesgierak

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, new to the forum but I’m at the end of my ropes here this is my Hail Mary. So I have a 2016 Silverado crew cab 6.5’ bed 5.3l 4WD 6 speed automatic transmission. The transmission was fully rebuilt at 75,000 The truck has 89,000 miles on it. I am complaining about a shake/vibration of course but I don’t feel as if mine is like most. Mine doesn’t seem as violent as others describe. I’m experiencing a vibration and a noise almost like driving over rumble strip in the road. This problem comes about when you are gentle on the throttle and at a lower rpm around 1200-1500. If you feather the throttle at 55 MPH you can easily replicate the issue. Next is issue number 2 I’m not sure if they are related but my gut is telling me they are, I recently noticed when stopped then slowly take off as in just letting the truck roll at idle of the line I feel like a small wobble/bounce as it kind of rocks you back and forth in your seat. Both issues go away once you give it more throttle. I’ve had the torque converter replaced first once the issue came back I then I’ve  changed the transmission fluid to the updated fluid, rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and that has been the longest fix for 3 weeks. Any suggestions are helpful and appreciated and thanks in advance 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Jamesgierak said:

Hi everyone, new to the forum but I’m at the end of my ropes here this is my Hail Mary. So I have a 2016 Silverado crew cab 6.5’ bed 5.3l 4WD 6 speed automatic transmission. The transmission was fully rebuilt at 75,000 The truck has 89,000 miles on it. I am complaining about a shake/vibration of course but I don’t feel as if mine is like most. Mine doesn’t seem as violent as others describe. I’m experiencing a vibration and a noise almost like driving over rumble strip in the road. This problem comes about when you are gentle on the throttle and at a lower rpm around 1200-1500. If you feather the throttle at 55 MPH you can easily replicate the issue. Next is issue number 2 I’m not sure if they are related but my gut is telling me they are, I recently noticed when stopped then slowly take off as in just letting the truck roll at idle of the line I feel like a small wobble/bounce as it kind of rocks you back and forth in your seat. Both issues go away once you give it more throttle. I’ve had the torque converter replaced first once the issue came back I then I’ve  changed the transmission fluid to the updated fluid, rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and that has been the longest fix for 3 weeks. Any suggestions are helpful and appreciated and thanks in advance 

1.did the rebuilder install a new aftermarket torque converter or the origional POS GM converter??

2. only 75,000 miles on a gm trans...i hope the rebuilder pulled out the trans t-stat, so your not over heating it, should run 135 F

3.did rebuilder do the re-calibration proceedures after overhaul?

4. did rebuilder install the trans updates from Trans-GO and did he pressure check the TECM 

5. why did you rotate the shaft 180?

not all rebuilds are good, and not all engine or trans builders know what they are doing or have the experience

Edited by flyingfool
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

if anyone has the shudder, without taking foot off gas, maintain speed, with other foot depress the brake pedal, this will deactivate the TCC in the trans pump. and might tell you if your getting a pump failure

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted

 

19 hours ago, Jamesgierak said:

Hi everyone, new to the forum but I’m at the end of my ropes here this is my Hail Mary. So I have a 2016 Silverado crew cab 6.5’ bed 5.3l 4WD 6 speed automatic transmission. The transmission was fully rebuilt at 75,000 The truck has 89,000 miles on it. I am complaining about a shake/vibration of course but I don’t feel as if mine is like most. Mine doesn’t seem as violent as others describe. I’m experiencing a vibration and a noise almost like driving over rumble strip in the road. This problem comes about when you are gentle on the throttle and at a lower rpm around 1200-1500. If you feather the throttle at 55 MPH you can easily replicate the issue. Next is issue number 2 I’m not sure if they are related but my gut is telling me they are, I recently noticed when stopped then slowly take off as in just letting the truck roll at idle of the line I feel like a small wobble/bounce as it kind of rocks you back and forth in your seat. Both issues go away once you give it more throttle. I’ve had the torque converter replaced first once the issue came back I then I’ve  changed the transmission fluid to the updated fluid, rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and that has been the longest fix for 3 weeks. Any suggestions are helpful and appreciated and thanks in advance 

Had your exact shutter issue. My dealership did the full trans flush/clean (cycled 3 times to get rid of all of the original fluid and replaced with the updated fluid), replaced the TC, and installed the trans updates. Have not had the shutter in 35k miles since then. I've read if they don't do the triple flush some of the old fluid will remain and still cause a shutter/vibration. Dealership said they do all three of those at the same time if possible, only doing one of those fixes has resulted in returned vehicles.

Jamesgierak Enthusiast

Jamesgierak

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, flyingfool said:

1.did the rebuilder install a new aftermarket torque converter or the origional POS GM converter??

 

 

2. only 75,000 miles on a gm trans...i hope the rebuilder pulled out the trans t-stat, so your not over heating it, should run 135 F

3.did rebuilder do the re-calibration proceedures after overhaul?

4. did rebuilder install the trans updates from Trans-GO and did he pressure check the TECM 

5. why did you rotate the shaft 180?

not all rebuilds are good, and not all engine or trans builders know what they are doing or have the experience

Not to sure what he did (wasn’t my option to go to him as it was under warranty from a dealer) but my trans temp gauge shows 190 degrees after on the highway for 40 miles cruising at 70 mph thanks for the input but I’m out of his warranty of 12k miles so looks like it’ll blow up again 

Jamesgierak Enthusiast

Jamesgierak

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, midwestdenaliguy said:

 

Had your exact shutter issue. My dealership did the full trans flush/clean (cycled 3 times to get rid of all of the original fluid and replaced with the updated fluid), replaced the TC, and installed the trans updates. Have not had the shutter in 35k miles since then. I've read if they don't do the triple flush some of the old fluid will remain and still cause a shutter/vibration. Dealership said they do all three of those at the same time if possible, only doing one of those fixes has resulted in returned vehicles.

Great to hear. But I doubt that will be covered because I am over the factory warranty with 88k miles and it’s a 2016. But do you have any insight to maybe get it covered?? Thank you 

Jamesgierak Enthusiast

Jamesgierak

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, flyingfool said:

if anyone has the shudder, without taking foot off gas, maintain speed, with other foot depress the brake pedal, this will deactivate the TCC in the trans pump. and might tell you if your getting a pump failure

What should I experience when I do this? What should I look for? Thank you

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Jamesgierak said:

Great to hear. But I doubt that will be covered because I am over the factory warranty with 88k miles and it’s a 2016. But do you have any insight to maybe get it covered?? Thank you 

I got really lucky to have an amazing GM dealership near me. Took it in right around 75k miles (past the 60k warranty on 2016+) with the shutter issue and the service director got GM to cover the bill. Doesn't hurt to ask to see if a GM dealership near you can get anything covered by GM (sometimes they do a portion). I'm not sure what it would have cost out of pocket, they gave me a receipt to prove the work was done but the amounts were all zeroed out. Good luck.

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Jamesgierak said:

What should I experience when I do this? What should I look for? Thank you

 

if experiencing shudder and if you lightly tap the brake pedal switch, while cruising this will disconnect the torque converter clutch and redirect fluid elsewhere. and may prove your pump or converter are about to eat ****** soon.... see if doing this stops the shudder.

if so i would install a cirdle D torque converter and a rebuilt or new oil pump in trans , and Install all the updates in the valveing

 

step 1. pull out trans filter , cut it open and inspect it for metal shavings. do the tcc disconnect test first, then dont drive it anymore it'll only cost more to fix.  tow haul mode should also disconnect the TCC

Edited by flyingfool
Jamesgierak Enthusiast

Jamesgierak

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, flyingfool said:
 

if experiencing shudder and if you lightly tap the brake pedal switch, while cruising this will disconnect the torque converter clutch and redirect fluid elsewhere. and may prove your pump or converter are about to eat ****** soon.... see if doing this stops the shudder.

if so i would install a cirdle D torque converter and a rebuilt or new oil pump in trans , and Install all the updates in the valveing

 

step 1. pull out trans filter , cut it open and inspect it for metal shavings. do the tcc disconnect test first, then dont drive it anymore it'll only cost more to fix.  tow haul mode should also disconnect the TCC

So I drove home from work in tow mode and no signs of any shudder. Stopped in at my Chevy dealership and they said they will do the fluid flush and any updates for the software. Said it will be about 20 quarts of fluid. They also said GM specifically noted in the bulletin to NOT replace the torque converter. Of course it won’t be covered under warranty and the estimate it’s just under 800 dollars as for I live in New York if anyone else is having this issue and is wondering a out of pocket cost. Thanks for all yours help guys 

  • Like 1
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

if disconnecting the Lock up function stops the shudder , then this is the issue. with the lock up function in the unit. maybe try driving in a gear that doesnt activate the V4 mode also and use tow haul for awhile and see if shudder comes back.   

 

i would try a private mechanic who specializes in transmissions.  save your reciepts. if it works out maybe you can take GM to court.  call circle D transmission for the best replacement.  but you might nee to do some update parts in the pump assembly. 

 

GM cant afford the cost to repair this issue across the entire truck/car lineup. thats one reason they say not to replace the converter. 

Edited by flyingfool
Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

Being this generation, 2014 - 2019, will soon be two generations back in history, GM has zero interest in remediation.  They’re focused on the upcoming generation.  They’re in a Klingon Death Match with Ford and Ram.  Along with gas/diesel technology, theres hybrids and EV’s to deal with will cost mountains of money to develop and bring in-line.  Sorry...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...