Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Yes, bad tires or incompetent balancing seem to account for a good percentage of these problems. My local Chevy dealer service manager told me the same thing - that it is mostly tire problems, but also differential and drive shaft problems.

 

I wish we had statistics from GM on those trucks that were successfully repaired under warranty to see what the percentage distribution is. This data would also help people see what are the root causes and possible solutions to these problems.

Edited by pm26
Posted

 

I wish we had statistics from GM on those trucks that were successfully repaired under warranty to see what the percentage distribution is. This data would also help people see what are the root causes and possible solutions to these problems.

You my freind, are expecting waaaaaay to much from GM.

Posted

I'm told my truck was successfully repaired!

Do I believe it? No. But I do have a glimmer of hope as I sent one of my guys (who isn't as in tune with these things as I am) to pick it up and he said it's good as well as the head service mgr who I've delt with since day one and has drove it with me 4xs.

So now the "explanation"...

So they started where they all start. The tires. Road Force revealed some abnormalities, exact readings I'm unaware of, but adjustments were made. They drove the truck and still detected vibration with the GM vibration detector and their butts. They went to the rear tires and re balanced them on the "NEW" laser balancer and found nothing out. Remounted the wheels, drove it, was worse. The tech simply rotated the rims on the studs 180 degrees and drove it again. NO VIBRATION!

 

What the hell? So now the theory is the hub centric wheels don't mount perfectly everytime or could be sensitive to even torque during installation. The dealer believes the wheels them selves could be the problem. Being the second set, it could be a manufacturing issue.

 

Thoughts?

I'll be to it in an hour or so to give it my full assesment.

 

2015 Denali 3500 DRW, Michelin ltx, 4x4

Posted

As soon as i took those shitty azz tires off my truck its been smooth as can be. Ive got 12k on it and still ridin smooth. The other day i was coming home from BPS and i decided to take the highway to see if my vibration had came back... Nope, smooth all the way to 85. I'm not saying tires will fix everyones trucks, but im sure glad i didnt screw with the dealer on my 2nd go round

 

$1200 and four Michelin LTX M/S2s later, the truck rides smooth all the way to 85mph (where it is actually legal to do on a tollway in my neck of the woods). Too bad GM doesn't consider doing this on their highly marketed Denali line from the get-go.

 

In my humble opinion, the GMC dealership I ordered this truck from can go eat a bag of d*cks. I am done with them.

Posted

Anyone read thru other forum threads on here and notice a commonality. There always seems to be the off topic comments within those threads about vibrations. For example I was reading a catch can thread where someone happened to mentioned a vibration and wondered if it was from the can mounting then others chime in about their slight pedal vibrations as well but stating they noticed theirs before the can install. So these vibrations, some much more pronounced than others, seem fairly wide spread.

Posted

This thread gets a lot of mentions on other sites too: "There are several causes, some get fixed but most don't. There are over 200+ pages on gm-trucks.com on this topic"

Posted (edited)

MY VIBRATION IS GONE!

All the way to the governor. I am wondering if I'll have this problem every time I need the tires balanced and/or wheels removed. I'm sure there are many reasons why these trucks have problems but I urge you to find a good tire shop.

 

2015 Denali 3500 DRW, Michelin ltx, 4x4

Edited by DenaliDually
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

$1200 and four Michelin LTX M/S2s later, the truck rides smooth all the way to 85mph (where it is actually legal to do on a tollway in my neck of the woods). Too bad GM doesn't consider doing this on their highly marketed Denali line from the get-go.

 

In my humble opinion, the GMC dealership I ordered this truck from can go eat a bag of d*cks. I am done with them.

Mine actually came with them...

You will like these tires, sucks you had to fork it over yourself. They'll last 40% longer and give you superior wet weather traction, just wait for the first time someone causes you to slam on the brakes in the rain. Glad your riding smooth! Others are not so lucky to spend 1200 to see a fix...

 

2015 Denali 3500 DRW, Michelin ltx, 4x4

Edited by DenaliDually
Posted

I wonder how many people have had the body mount service bulletin applied (repositioning and retorquing) on their trucks and whether or not that led to a successful fix.

Posted

its hard to find out anything when GM refuses to work on my truck. I have been told time and time again that it is working as designed. It vibrates as bad as it always has.

Posted

Question - are all the wheels on the 2015's hub centric, including the 1500's and the Tahoe/Suburban/Yukons, or just the 3500 dually's? I've got the issues on the "noise" thread over in the SUV section of this forum and wondering if my Yukon also has hub centric wheels. (Which in theory are supposed to be perfectly entered, as long as the hub bore isn't too large or the hub too small!).

Posted

Question - are all the wheels on the 2015's hub centric, including the 1500's and the Tahoe/Suburban/Yukons, or just the 3500 dually's? I've got the issues on the "noise" thread over in the SUV section of this forum and wondering if my Yukon also has hub centric wheels. (Which in theory are supposed to be perfectly entered, as long as the hub bore isn't too large or the hub too small!).

To the best of my knowledge, yes...

 

I feel like a little kid with a big red button in front of me, I'm dying to take one of these off and see if there is any play in the wheel without lugs but I'm not willing to jeopardize my ride quality. Maybe when it's due for rotation and balance I'll investigate.

 

I personally am not buying the fact the the hub bores are to large. I feel the most likely scenario is that the tech hangs the wheel on the studs then hits it with the impact to tighten the first lug nut, it's possible if the hub bore is to tight that it causes the assembly to get bound up and not sit flush. Maybe asking them not to use pneumatics on install would eliminate this variable? I don't know... I'm just glad they fixed it and dread the next rotation and balance!

 

 

 

2015 Denali 3500 DRW, Michelin ltx, 4x4

Posted

To the best of my knowledge, yes...

I feel like a little kid with a big red button in front of me, I'm dying to take one of these off and see if there is any play in the wheel without lugs but I'm not willing to jeopardize my ride quality. Maybe when it's due for rotation and balance I'll investigate.

I personally am not buying the fact the the hub bores are to large. I feel the most likely scenario is that the tech hangs the wheel on the studs then hits it with the impact to tighten the first lug nut, it's possible if the hub bore is to tight that it causes the assembly to get bound up and not sit flush. Maybe asking them not to use pneumatics on install would eliminate this variable? I don't know... I'm just glad they fixed it and dread the next rotation and balance!

2015 Denali 3500 DRW, Michelin ltx, 4x4

I know I wouldn't mess with mine if it was OK!

 

I agree there is more chance it's an assembly error, not component defect. Especially if hub-centric is a new thing. Someone didn't communicate properly to the line and next thing you know, it's being done wrong. Wouldn't be the first time something like that happened. And you're right - they have no fricken' business using impact wrenches to put wheels on!

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm still having shake at highway speeds (typically 72-83). Tends to taper off at about 85, however still doesn't feel FIRM. I hate this and it ain't the snow because I purposely cleaned my wheels the other day to get all snow and ice out before my recent 2hr road trip.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...