Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I wonder if this could be handled as a safety issue, in which case GM would be forced to recall these trucks and devise a fix. In an accident the seat needs to be properly anchored to the floor and must withstand pretty high stresses during an impact. Otherwise the seat occupant can get badly hurt if the seat becomes detached.

Posted

It would be nice to know how to fix the seat. The guy a few posts back used some bushing and washers and fix the seat? :confused:

 

I'm not taking it to the dealer until there is a TSB for this issue.

Posted (edited)

Here's a GM bulletin somebody scanned in from August 2013. Does this fix work? Anybody had their dealer apply this fix?

 

No it doesn't work. Within two days my seat was moving again.

 

 

Edited by Texrock
Posted

It would be nice to know how to fix the seat. The guy a few posts back used some bushing and washers and fix the seat? :confused:

 

I'm not taking it to the dealer until there is a TSB for this issue.

I was one of the guys to fix it with washers and it is definitely "better" but not perfect. I may machine a custom bushing that will take place of the washers and serve as a radial bushing to take out all the slack. Just haven't had time to draw one up and get dimensions yo make it up.

Posted

These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat. After my local dealer tech sat on the floor behind me with the trim panels off of the seat, he has come up with these bushings allowing the seat to move from left to right. We will install a new base to the seat in a few days and see if the noise goes away.

 

photo 1

photo 2

Posted

At least your dealership is looking into your issue and we all pray a solution is found. My dealership took a quick 5 minute ride and looked quickly with a flashlight and said everything is fine, goodbye..

 

Please let us know how the repair goes..

Posted

Did a lot of driving this weekend and notice the seat is getting worse which is good so hopefully next time they'll feel the movement I feel in my lower back like I do every day... Very frustrating.

Posted

Just wondering if anybody is having problems with there 2014 chev Z71 LTZ with the easy entrance easy exit seat control. Mine has a mind of its own... at times when you unlock the door and open it,the seat will start moving ahead and the peddles will do the same, I re-set the peddles and seat to go all the way back and peddles all the way down on exiting the same to enter!!!! today it will work maybe tomorrow it will not. I have taking it back to the local dealer they could not find a problem with it. Now today driving back home the hands free voice command button did not work and the biggest complaint is the drivers seat... It is the most on comfortable seat i have ever had in a new vehicle. I cannot drive more that 400KM with out pulling over and take a walk around the truck for a few minutes.So far not all that impressed with my 2014. it looks good not bad on fuel but do not trust the electronics.

Posted

These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat. After my local dealer tech sat on the floor behind me with the trim panels off of the seat, he has come up with these bushings allowing the seat to move from left to right. We will install a new base to the seat in a few days and see if the noise goes away.

 

Where are these bushing at? Side of the seat? Front or back? Can you notice the slop visibly in the bushing?

 

I had my seat frame replaced and it helped for a week or so and then it came back. Something is either not tightened or wears out very quickly. Let me know what you find.

Posted

Where are these bushing at? Side of the seat? Front or back? Can you notice the slop visibly in the bushing?

I had my seat frame replaced and it helped for a week or so and then it came back. Something is either not tightened or wears out very quickly. Let me know what you find.

First sentence. "These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat." Looks like the seat was removed and turned on its side.

Posted

First sentence. "These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat." Looks like the seat was removed and turned on its side.

Was looking for more detail about where along the side. I have been digging into the underside of these seats looking for the issue and just wanted a little more detail if possible....but thanks for the useful comment

Posted

well after a few thousand clunk shift free miles I hate to say it, but seat clunk,shift whatever is back, Will ring the dealer up after the holidays expect it to keep getting worse, curious why no fix yet. I was the one who also posted about the nylon washer shim bushing type fix that seemed to be working. short term unfortunately.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...