Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone getting a squeak/fart sound from left side of driver's seat when sitting? Same sound as when you move around in an old leather recliner.

 

Took it to dealer and they acknowledged the sound but said they don't have a fix for it yet. As I tried to determine a cause & fix, I discovered it's the leather rubbing against the plastic trim. On the passenger seat, when you press down the leather bows out like normal. On the driver's, some of the leather actually slides down behind the plastic trim and make a loud, annoying noise as it rubs. I shoved a wash cloth way down between the leather & plastic trim and the noise was gone. Unfortunately, this is by no means a permanent fix and having a rag stick out your seat looks like crap.

 

Anyone also have this issue?

  • Like 1
Posted
Anyone getting a squeak/fart sound from left side of driver's seat when sitting? Same sound as when you move around in an old leather recliner.

Took it to dealer and they acknowledged the sound but said they don't have a fix for it yet. As I tried to determine a cause & fix, I discovered it's the leather rubbing against the plastic trim. On the passenger seat, when you press down the leather bows out like normal. On the driver's, some of the leather actually slides down behind the plastic trim and make a loud, annoying noise as it rubs. I shoved a wash cloth way down between the leather & plastic trim and the noise was gone. Unfortunately, this is by no means a permanent fix and having a rag stick out your seat looks like crap.

Anyone also have this issue?

 

I do. Same exact spot as you. Dealership replaced some clips and it fixed it for all of two days and it came back. It's annoying....

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat. After my local dealer tech sat on the floor behind me with the trim panels off of the seat, he has come up with these bushings allowing the seat to move from left to right. We will install a new base to the seat in a few days and see if the noise goes away.

 

 

Any more info on how the seat replacement helped? I am guessing it made a difference as it did for me when my seat was replaced the first time. it lasted for about a week or two and then the click noise came back first when getting in and then the seat moved. I have isolated the clicking/clunking noise when getting in, but need to figure out this seat movement issue. I guess I will take a look over the weekend and see if I can get the side seat covers off to expose this bushing/bracket you found. I would like to try and shim it just to see if this is definetly the culprit and then I can work on a soltuion from there.

 

The reason I asked this poster where the bushing was located because my movement all seems to be in the back of the bottom part of the seat. If these bushings are at the back then I would tend to believe the theory a little more. Hoping to get some info from the poster of these pics....

Posted

Looking at those pictures one more time, it appears those bushings are on the bottom of the seat bracket and not the sides, which was my original thought.

 

you can see the yellow seat foam and the from adjust/lifter motor in the picture I believe. I will be taking a look at some point (maybe tonight if I get a chance).

Posted

I do. Same exact spot as you. Dealership replaced some clips and it fixed it for all of two days and it came back. It's annoying...

jmpen found "if you reach down to the front of your seat you will feel where the seat cover stretches over the frame. On mine the bead that holds the cover on wasn't fully seated. I just pressed this up and seat is quiet now."

 

I'm going to give it a try tonight.

Posted

My seat is also notchy feeling when turning. I also have strange noises from driver rear. Like a loud squeak and sometimes a knock. Only does it when cool and wet.

 

I can push down on the driver rear corner of the bed and duplicate, but when driving it doesn't require bumps.. Just a slow roll will make the sound..

 

Confusing..

 

Still love my truck!

 

My seat is also notchy feeling when turning. I also have strange noises from driver rear. Like a loud squeak and sometimes a knock. Only does it when cool and wet.

 

I can push down on the driver rear corner of the bed and duplicate, but when driving it doesn't require bumps.. Just a slow roll will make the sound..

 

Confusing..

 

Still love my truck!

Posted

I'm just over 3,100 miles and I'm beginning to feel the driver's seat move ever so slightly right or left when making a turn. First noticed it about two weeks ago and it is getting just a bit worse every day.

Posted

So...I had some free time this afternoon and dove a little deeper into the white clamps that hold the seat bottom to the seat frame as depicted in Clarks images a few posts ago. I was wrenching around on the bottom of the seat to try and make it replicate the noise/thunk and I was able to get pretty close to the actual experience.

 

Low and behold, if I kept one hand on that white clamp at the front of the seat just on the underside I felt it move/vibrate in unison with the noise. I am still a little weary because for me it always sounded like the noise/movement was coming from the back of the bottom seat cushion. However, I have a temporary fix to try and isolate this movement to see if that stands the test of time.

 

I put hose clamps with rubber on the inside diameter of them on either side of the white seat clamps on the same tube the clamps wrap around (a total of 4 clamps with one on either side of each white seat mount). My purpose is to hold the white camp stationary and it seems to be working well so far. I took it for a good run around some of the roads that always cause the seat to move and nothing happened! However...time will tell as I have thought I nixed this one before..

 

It is kind of weird because it looks as if there is grease between the white seat mounts and the bar they are mounting/clamping to. Why would you want to grease something you are trying to keep stationary? I had my seat frame replaced once and it worked for a week or two...but came back so it seems these camps wear out after a little use and getting in and out of the truck. I have to say that replacing these white clamps that mount the seat bottom to the frame would be pretty easy for GM to do and cheap to assuming they can find something with a little more clamping force to stop the seat from moving.

 

I will report back if it comes back any time soon

  • Like 2
Posted

I was messing around with my moving seat as well and noticed all my seat cushion movement is in those white clamps as well. Was going to try the hose clamp idea too; glad to see someone else has done it with some luck.

  • Like 1
Posted

Excellent post!! Like yourself I feel the movement in the lower back area that sways when turning. Yea it does seem strange there's grease on something that's supposed to stay put. I seriously hope your solution works for everyone's sake and we all appreciate your time in tinkering around and for posting what you did.

 

Thank you and Merry Christmas,.

 

Al

  • Like 1
Posted

Had mine in for its first service. Dealer could not reproduce the seat issue and therefor gave it back.

Posted

Toddfather, the only way my dealer could reproduce the problem is with me driving and the Tech riding on the floor behind my seat. He had taken the trim off of the seat so he could see the movement. Good luck!! Mine has been quiet since the new frame assembly, but I am not holding on to hopes that this is long term.

  • Like 1
Posted

jdvaughn: which seat do you have? The one that vibrates with the alert system? Center console?

Posted

So...I had some free time this afternoon and dove a little deeper into the white clamps that hold the seat bottom to the seat frame as depicted in Clarks images a few posts ago. I was wrenching around on the bottom of the seat to try and make it replicate the noise/thunk and I was able to get pretty close to the actual experience.

 

Low and behold, if I kept one hand on that white clamp at the front of the seat just on the underside I felt it move/vibrate in unison with the noise. I am still a little weary because for me it always sounded like the noise/movement was coming from the back of the bottom seat cushion. However, I have a temporary fix to try and isolate this movement to see if that stands the test of time.

 

I put hose clamps with rubber on the inside diameter of them on either side of the white seat clamps on the same tube the clamps wrap around (a total of 4 clamps with one on either side of each white seat mount). My purpose is to hold the white camp stationary and it seems to be working well so far. I took it for a good run around some of the roads that always cause the seat to move and nothing happened! However...time will tell as I have thought I nixed this one before..

 

It is kind of weird because it looks as if there is grease between the white seat mounts and the bar they are mounting/clamping to. Why would you want to grease something you are trying to keep stationary? I had my seat frame replaced once and it worked for a week or two...but came back so it seems these camps wear out after a little use and getting in and out of the truck. I have to say that replacing these white clamps that mount the seat bottom to the frame would be pretty easy for GM to do and cheap to assuming they can find something with a little more clamping force to stop the seat from moving.

 

I will report back if it comes back any time soon

And here I was going to answer your question about where that part was since I looked under my seat last night. You figured it out yourself. Maybe the grease is there to prevent any squeaks as the part moves around the shaft and not for side to side movement?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...