Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had my truck in on Friday, oil change, tire rotation, trans recall, seat movement and radio reception.

oil was changed, tires rotated. Recall was not necessary. I was told they tightened the seat and the radio reception that is change another issue.

I made my appointment 2 weeks in advance the dealer called me at 330pm and said we didn’t get a chance to look at you truck. The oil change a tire rotation can get done. But the other stuff we might not have time. Then at 530pm he called and said everything was done.

Seat still moves and the radio is still full of static

Posted
tutiii

 

 

I had my truck in on Friday, oil change, tire rotation, trans recall, seat movement and radio reception.

oil was changed, tires rotated. Recall was not necessary. I was told they tightened the seat and the radio reception that is change another issue.

I made my appointment 2 weeks in advance the dealer called me at 330pm and said we didn’t get a chance to look at you truck. The oil change a tire rotation can get done. But the other stuff we might not have time. Then at 530pm he called and said everything was done.

Seat still moves and the radio is still full of static

Sounds like you go to the same dealer I went too. I had a similar experience. They "ordered" parts for my seat and the transmission that were supposed to be in weeks ago. I can't get a call back or a email.

Posted

I actually recieved a call from the general manager of the dealership. I have a friend who knows him, told him my experienced called me to make things right. so i'm taking my truck in next week. i'll let you know how i make out

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Since there is no GM fix yet, I'll post again what I did. I bought a set of screw type hose clamps and lined the inside with rubber from an old bike tube. I put these hose clamps on the rod the seat mounts to and butted them up against the while seat mounts on the outboard sides. Tightened them down and have had no issues for a few months now. Works until GM figures it out.

 

I'm pretty sure I can visualize this, but would you mind posting some pictures? Is it still working? I am planning to do this until they find a permanent fix for it. I am not willing to play the dealership game like I did with my last truck (buyback). Thanks in advance!

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

I'm pretty sure I can visualize this, but would you mind posting some pictures? Is it still working? I am planning to do this until they find a permanent fix for it. I am not willing to play the dealership game like I did with my last truck (buyback). Thanks in advance!

 

+1 on a pic please.

Posted

So...I had some free time this afternoon and dove a little deeper into the white clamps that hold the seat bottom to the seat frame as depicted in Clarks images a few posts ago. I was wrenching around on the bottom of the seat to try and make it replicate the noise/thunk and I was able to get pretty close to the actual experience.

 

Low and behold, if I kept one hand on that white clamp at the front of the seat just on the underside I felt it move/vibrate in unison with the noise. I am still a little weary because for me it always sounded like the noise/movement was coming from the back of the bottom seat cushion. However, I have a temporary fix to try and isolate this movement to see if that stands the test of time.

 

I put hose clamps with rubber on the inside diameter of them on either side of the white seat clamps on the same tube the clamps wrap around (a total of 4 clamps with one on either side of each white seat mount). My purpose is to hold the white camp stationary and it seems to be working well so far. I took it for a good run around some of the roads that always cause the seat to move and nothing happened! However...time will tell as I have thought I nixed this one before..

 

It is kind of weird because it looks as if there is grease between the white seat mounts and the bar they are mounting/clamping to. Why would you want to grease something you are trying to keep stationary? I had my seat frame replaced once and it worked for a week or two...but came back so it seems these camps wear out after a little use and getting in and out of the truck. I have to say that replacing these white clamps that mount the seat bottom to the frame would be pretty easy for GM to do and cheap to assuming they can find something with a little more clamping force to stop the seat from moving.

 

I will report back if it comes back any time soon

 

jdvaughn, any chance we could get a pic of your fix? Thanks in advance!

Posted (edited)

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I butted them up against the inside of the two white clips on the front of the seat rail. As you can see below the clamp doesn't but up against the entire clip, just the white part protruding at the top. I kept trying to get it right against it, and didn't realize until I took the picture that the white part sticking out was what it mated up against.

eza4ehap.jpg

evyjy9eb.jpg

 

Here are the parts that I pulled the rubber off of to go on the hose clamp:

 

http://www.ultimategarage.com/frontpage-images/ABARubberClamp1.jpg

 

So far so good and this seems to be a fix until GM comes out with a better one or if they don't, it will remain permanent. Hope this helps anyone who is having this issue!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hotrodz37
  • Like 9
Posted

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a fee others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I butted them up against the inside of the two white clips on the front of the seat rail.

 

eza4ehap.jpg

 

evyjy9eb.jpg

 

So far so good and this seems to be a fix until GM comes out with a better one or if they don't, it will remain permanent. Hope this helps anyone who is having this issue!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Awesome I'm definitely going to try this. thank you!

Posted

One day into trying Hotrodz fix. So far so good. Now that it's fixed I find myself anticipating it popping and moving. Thanks Hotrodz!!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

One day into trying Hotrodz fix. So far so good. Now that it's fixed I find myself anticipating it popping and moving. Thanks Hotrodz!!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Happy to help guys! I anticipate it too haha, I brace myself around every corner waiting for a pop, and thinking how disappointed I will be if it comes back. Three days in so far and the seat is more solid than its ever been, even without the movement when I first got it.

 

I moved the seat a little today from where I had it when I originally installed the hose clamps it and it seems to be good in the new position too.

Posted

I did mine too yesterday and only drove it to get gas but so far so good. If GM reads this forum I think that this will become their permanent fix.

 

 

Yotaman

Posted

Is anyone else having seat cushion issues? Getting in and out of the truck I noticed the side cushion of the seat is folding under the cover. After a while the creases start to dig into my left leg making the ride a bit uncomfortable. I showed this to the service guys and they said that they added a new cushion but I am not so sure it doesn't look like anything was done. I am taking it back in for a recall issues with the lines next week and will ask them to take a look at it again.

Posted

Amazing that GM can't figure this out but a member here did and I thank whoever came up with it. The only other issue my truck has had is the bad radio reception and I think there is a fix on the way for that. I hope that I stay this lucky cause it is amazing how a tight ass I the seat makes the whole driving experience way better.

 

Yotaman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...