Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Up date, the programmer is working as advertised. Im getting more of a old time feel out of the pedal now, I don't seem to have to wait for a response, you hit it, you go. The same goes for the transmission no hunting, hits hard at 75% Im going to try 100% at some time its almost chirping the tires now.

Update no. 2 Performing as advertised, I drop the TM down to 50%, now a firm shift with out the feeling of someone hitting the truck with a sledge hammer. Edited by KARNUT
Posted

Yeah, just guessing by what I've done, I would say that I'm about 75% reduction on TM and shift firmness and can bark the tires, it's a little much actually but I'm just creating different levels of tunes for customers. Good to hear you are having good luck with another programmer. Hollar at me if you ever make it up around the Tulsa area, I'd like to check your tune out.

Posted

Yeah, just guessing by what I've done, I would say that I'm about 75% reduction on TM and shift firmness and can bark the tires, it's a little much actually but I'm just creating different levels of tunes for customers. Good to hear you are having good luck with another programmer. Hollar at me if you ever make it up around the Tulsa area, I'd like to check your tune out.

I think if I could get close to the Tulsa area Id have a custom tune and maybe a turbo by TDT. But sometimes you have to do what you can.
Posted

Got my Blackbear tune installed last night. Justin sent me two different ECM tunes and then a TCM tune. The two different ECM ones were 87/89 octane and the other was 91+ octane. I loaded the 87/89 first since I currently have 89 octane in the truck. I will experiment with the 91+ octane eventually, but will probably stick with the 87/89 for the long run since gas is expensive enough around where I live.

 

Loading them into the truck took less than 10 minutes. First you obviously have to load them onto the Autocal from your computer, but then just plug into the truck, and program away.

 

I went for a drive last night and I have to say I am impressed. The truck is overall just more responsive and the shifting is MUCH cleaner. The trans doesn't guess as much when you get into the skinny pedal, it just decides and goes.

 

Also, AFM is gone. And I no longer have any "helicopter noise" in the cab, with the windows up, from my Corsa Sport exhaust. It wasn't particularly annoying, but still a nice change.

 

Two thumbs way up for Blackbear. For anyone on the fence about getting a BBP tune....just hop over the fence. The the grass is so much nicer over here. And we have beer.

 

Also the fact that with the Autocal, you can do on the fly updates, read trouble codes, log data, really makes it a handy piece of equipment.

  • Like 2
Posted

I sware my truck is quicker on the 87/89 tune than my 91 tune I have been flipping back and fourth but ultimately find the lower octane tune performs better. I had filled up a few times with 94 on my 91+ tune just to see and don't feel it's there like the 87/89 tune is. Either way I am extremely happy with my BBP tunes great money spent to make the truck more enjoyable.

Posted

Could be quality of gas, but remember it will take a bit for the tune to learn so flipping back and forth won't show you differences.

Posted (edited)

Could be quality of gas, but remember it will take a bit for the tune to learn so flipping back and forth won't show you differences.

i realize that I'm talking around 1 1/2 weeks between tunes. Very well could be the fuel but my knock retard is nil on both fuels while logging. Like I said very happy but even happier on 87/89 octane :). I can also say for certain my fuel economy is greater on 87. Edited by Greensmob
Posted

i realize that I'm talking around 1 1/2 weeks between tunes. Very well could be the fuel but my knock retard is nil on both fuels while logging. Like I said very happy but even happier on 87/89 octane :). I can also say for certain my fuel economy is greater on 87.

If you have a 14 and can get E85 easy enough try that on your high octane tune. Im saving almost one dollar per gallon and feeling the power. Lost only 2 mile per gallon in town.

Posted

I may have to go blackbear this time. I use to having my old tuner use hptuners but I kinda like the idea of having a autocal and being able to read codes on the fly.

 

Jennabear on a tune can you go ahead and delete the rear 02 in case I wanted to go headers in the future?

Posted

Update no. 2 Performing as advertised, I drop the TM down to 50%, now a firm shift with out the feeling of someone hitting the truck with a sledge hammer.

Up date no 3, not seeing an improvement in the in town gas mileage but im incline to be a little more aggressive up to speed. With that the mileage is the same, so I guess that's an improvement. Going on a trip shortly will see if there is an improvement there. They claim it don't expect it, not why I bought it.
Posted

Wow, finally read the stock calibration out of my truck. Between GM and HPT the tune looks way different now. A lot of the previous parameters are gone that we used to use to tune the transmission side.

Posted

so has anybody gone in for service yet and been questioned on the # of flashes on the ecm with a blackbear tune ,i really want to do it but our dealers are militant up here lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...