Jump to content

Rusting Frame

HOTTWIN

By HOTTWIN
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

dc2e256c9ae45a105f5fe9f72b40c27c.jpg

I haven't sprayed mine with oil in two years...2012, 90k miles, Pennsylvania rust belt...that pict is from today. If you want them to last, take matters into your own hands. Cost me less than $20 for the sprayer, I use drain oil from the trans, power steering, and differentials. There are also guys that will oil undercoat locally for about $50.

I tried fluid film, it washed off in a lot of spots within one winter. The wax coat shriveled up and peeled off in a lot of spots after the fluid film was sprayed.

I have owned vehicles that were Ziebart coated, that worked ok, but eventually that caused rust since they only coat certain parts with wax, the rest is a traditional undercoat that traps water.

I've used QuakerCoat by Quakerstate, it did alright but is pretty thick and I don't even know if it's produced anymore.

The only thing I have found that works for me is oil undercoating. Once it traps some dirt/dust, it builds a body that remains wet...that becomes your undercoating. It's not pretty, it's not clear, and it's obviously not for everyone...I don't have this truck to show, I have it to work.

Again, just my experience. YMMV.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

My frame looks nearly identical to yours and I've done nothing but spray Fluid Film on it. No shriveled up factory wax like you describe. Fluid Film and the oil you sprayed on operate on the exact same principal. You're applying an oxygen/water barrier. Not sure how you washed FF off, unless you washed your truck with hot water. The label says not to wash it with water hotter than 140F. But hey, used oil is just as good as FF. Atleast you aren't wasting you time sitting at the dealer getting the factory wax reapplied.

  • Replies 539
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jim Prufrock
Jim Prufrock

Ok, I am new to this site but as a GM tech who has been pushed too far, its time the truth came out! I know for a fact in the northeast, there is a service bulletin #PI056E: and its titled wax coating

OldHobo
OldHobo

That's not acceptable! Looks like it was done by a blind man. I'd be back there demanding to know why they had the truck for 3 days and that's all they accomplished. I sincerely doubt it's GM's fault,

pm26
pm26

Well, now you see the GM manufacturing trend for these trucks. The idea is to produce a comfortable vehicle with a car like ride, silent interior, and loaded with gadgets. This is bound to impress t

Posted Images

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Fluid film will wash off, not sure if it's the salt used by DOT or what, but I've used the thin version (sprayed myself) and the commercial version (sprayed by a dealer), both trucks (and the car) had dry frames/undercarriages by the spring where ever they encountered road spray. My dad's truck looked like we had sprayed nothing at all and was just as rusted as if we hadn't sprayed it at all.

 

This truck within a week of being sprayed lost probably 25% of the wax coating, large areas shriveled up, then flaked off. Could it be the original application of the wax coating was flawed? I don't know. All I do know is that after spraying with Fluid Film, the coating on MY frame shriveled and peeled. By spring, the fluid film was almost nonexistent.

 

While I use used gear/trans/PS fluid, I don't use used motor oil.

 

Again, my experience. Not saying it doesn't work for most, just didn't work for me.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Have you talked directly with Fluid Film to see what they say?:

888-387-3522

 

http://www.fluid-film.com/

Nope, had it sprayed on a virgin truck, it washed off, so I went back to my method...no reason to spray it over something that works. I gave it the college try...on a brand new, clean, truck...

 

The nearest dealer (at that time) is in Maryland, over two hours away; it wasn't worth going back to complain or have it "touched up" (read: completely resprayed) every year.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Fluid film will wash off, not sure if it's the salt used by DOT or what, but I've used the thin version (sprayed myself) and the commercial version (sprayed by a dealer), both trucks (and the car) had dry frames/undercarriages by the spring where ever they encountered road spray. My dad's truck looked like we had sprayed nothing at all and was just as rusted as if we hadn't sprayed it at all.

This truck within a week of being sprayed lost probably 25% of the wax coating, large areas shriveled up, then flaked off. Could it be the original application of the wax coating was flawed? I don't know. All I do know is that after spraying with Fluid Film, the coating on MY frame shriveled and peeled. By spring, the fluid film was almost nonexistent.

While I use used gear/trans/PS fluid, I don't use used motor oil.

Again, my experience. Not saying it doesn't work for most, just didn't work for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Considering every GM truck with the factory wax left untouched has peeled off, it's a safe bet that your dad's truck was going to peel off anyways. Mine was peeling a coupled months after after I bought it, well before I started spraying it with FF.

 

I thinks it's all in your head. Toyota guys have been using it for years to keep their Tacomas from rust rotting. Same with the county highway departments, they sprayed their plow trucks every year.

Edited by HondaHawkGT
sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, my dad's truck was a Dodge with an ecoat frame...different animal. Mine is a wax coat...and the shriveling happened within a short period of being sprayed with Fluid Film. I've sprayed more than one car with Fluid Film, have you?

 

Again, it did not work for us...it's your money, if it makes you feel good spending that kind of $$, good for you. I can spray my truck for next to nothing in an hour for the same effect.

 

Have a nice day. I can't add anything more than I have...so I'm done with this thread.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited by sdeeter19555
amfr Enthusiast

amfr

Posted
Posted

I should take a picture of the surface rust all over the new er they are building at my job

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Yeah, my dad's truck was a Dodge with an ecoat frame...different animal. Mine is a wax coat...and the shriveling happened within a short period of being sprayed with Fluid Film. I've sprayed more than one car with Fluid Film, have you?

Again, it did not work for us...it's your money, if it makes you feel good spending that kind of $$, good for you. I can spray my truck for next to nothing in an hour for the same effect.

Have a nice day. I can't add anything more than I have...so I'm done with this thread.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Been spraying the same 1 gallon can of FF for the 3rd year in a row now. My frame looks no different than the pic you posted of yours. Like I said, similar outcomes because they operate on the same outcome. It's not as though FF will make the shitty factory wax peel and the petroleum oil won't. The factory wax shrivels and peels because the factory wax is crap, not because you sprayed it with some sheep wax. Keep the peeling spots treated with old oil or FF and your're protected for a winter season. BTW I haven't washed my truck once during the salty winter season, other than a quick spritz or two with cold water.

  • 3 weeks later...
Retired Bob Enthusiast

Retired Bob

Posted
Posted

Updated Nov. 12, 2016 4:17 p.m. ET

Toyota Motor Corp. has agreed to pay up to about $3.4 billion to settle claims that certain of its trucks and sport-utility vehicles lacked proper rust protection, leading to premature corrosion of vehicle frames.

The agreement is a substantial financial setback at a time when the Japanese auto giant’s record-breaking profit streak has slowed in recent quarters as a strong yen dents its performance. The company also is part of a broader group of auto makers facing plateauing retail sales in the profitable U.S. market.

The deal, filed in U.S. District Court in Los Angeles this week, settles litigation in two states over problems with Toyota Tacoma trucks from model years 2005 to 2010, Tundras from 2007 to 2008 and Sequoias from 2005 to 2008.

 

Once approved, consumers will be entitled to an inspection of their vehicles and ultimately replacement of its frame if the car is found to have the faulty rust protection. Car owners who already have replaced their frames will also be reimbursed.

Court documents peg the cost of inspection to Toyota under the accord at $90 a vehicle and to replace each frame at $15,000.

JerryCanada Enthusiast

JerryCanada

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. Just starting with this trouble with my Sierra. Bought it new last year and only have 17,000km on it. Called GM Canada and they investigated and called back. At this point I'm being told to not do anything to it and dealer will not touch it until they find a permanent fix. So they are looking into a permanent fix but no time line yet. This will blow if I have to expose my frame to road salt before I can do anything to it without cancelling chances of getting the fix from GM.

Retired Bob Enthusiast

Retired Bob

Posted
Posted

JerryCanada, one technique you may want to use with your dealer is to visit the dealer and state 'winter will be here soon along with all the road salt. Are you planning to do the re-coating of my truck BEFORE the salt is put on the roads as I don't want the corrosive salt on my rusted frame?' If they say no permanent fix is available yet, you need to say 'So, you are telling me to go ahead and let the salt get thrown up on my uncoated frame?'

 

The idea is to force them to say yes and 'accept responsibility' for any salt damage because they won't re-coat your frame. Usually the dealer will not want to say they will accept responsibility so they will, reluctantly, agree to do a fix right away and fix it again when the permanent fix is available. While this does not always work, it's worth a try. Should they say 'yes' (they are okay with accepting responsibility) , then ask that person for their full name and let them see you writing that down along with the date and what they said - they may change their mind when they see you documenting what they said.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I don't have a problem with the frame, but the rear axle has light surface rust on the shock mounts and diff cover. I live in S Fla. And haven't seen salt

There is plenty of salt in the air anywhere near coast all over Florida. That coupled with high humidity causes rapid rust formation all over.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
MonkeyMouth Enthusiast

MonkeyMouth

Posted
Posted

 

"Lets stop selling cars with tires already on them!"

 

:lol:

 

but seriously.. remember under hood lights? They get deleted in every body style. I dont know if my 14 even has one.

 

The only time I've seen things get BEEFIER in GM trucks was between the 67-72s where the frame components became thicker and thicker as time went on.

 

That makes me add another thing on my accessories list.

-Hood light.

 

Thanks! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • B14Sierra
      Cam chain tensioner question

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • dna9656
      No low range 4 x 4

      By dna9656 · Posted

      My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • asilverblazer
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • asilverblazer
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • Chuck FB
      summer road trips in the 2026 2500HD

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...