Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I got mine from gmpartsexperts as well, and the first one I got was damaged as well. It had deeper scratches in one spot on the front in the plastic that could not have been caused by the seat belt buckle in the box. 

The box was intact, and gmpartsexperts had not opened it.

They were quick to get me another one and they opened the second one to check it because several people had complained about scratches on them.

Second one was good.

4 hours ago, Harry Rombold said:

There's been no mention on here about the plastic behind the seat belt floor attachment and how it comes off , I'm guessing the same type of clips used on the other side panels but previous posts say that only 5 new clips are needed for the job . That number doesn't jive with or include this lower panel forementioned .  For the most part the posts relating to this upgrade have been very helpful but still leave some holes to be filled . When I do anything I like to be prepared , unpleasant surprises can really take a dump on you day .  Comments welcome , thank you

The two trim pieces that cover each side of the pivot area have three clips on each side and then also the edges of those pieces of trim have little tabs that lock into the plastic that you don't remove underneath. Those two pieces are the ones that are a pain to get off. The metal clips are too aggressive IMO. 

In my case those metal clips separated from the plastic tabs they were mounted on. I was able to remove them from the female slots they mated to without destroying them and I was able to reuse all of mine.

 

The lower trim piece that you mention here where the lower seat belt strap attaches on the drivers side was no problem at all for me to remove. It came off like you'd think they all should. The clip(s) on that one were different. I don't even remember how many there where maybe one maybe two.... and I think they were about the same size, but they had a polished finish on them whereas the others up top were flat grey and had quite a bit more friction associated with them.

 

I removed the bolt that retains the lower seat belt strap before I removed that piece, and replaced that trim before I replaced that seat belt bolt, I did not confirm that you NEED to do it in this order, thought. I didn't check to see if that bolt also retains the trim as well. 

Edited by nolte
Posted
2 hours ago, nolte said:

I got mine from gmpartsexperts as well, and the first one I got was damaged as well. It had deeper scratches in one spot on the front in the plastic that could not have been caused by the seat belt buckle in the box. 

The box was intact, and gmpartsexperts had not opened it.

They were quick to get me another one and they opened the second one to check it because several people had complained about scratches on them.

Second one was good.

The two trim pieces that cover each side of the pivot area have three clips on each side and then also the edges of those pieces of trim have little tabs that lock into the plastic that you don't remove underneath. Those two pieces are the ones that are a pain to get off. The metal clips are too aggressive IMO. 

In my case those metal clips separated from the plastic tabs they were mounted on. I was able to remove them from the female slots they mated to without destroying them and I was able to reuse all of mine.

 

The lower trim piece that you mention here where the lower seat belt strap attaches on the drivers side was no problem at all for me to remove. It came off like you'd think they all should. The clip(s) on that one were different. I don't even remember how many there where maybe one maybe two.... and I think they were about the same size, but they had a polished finish on them whereas the others up top were flat grey and had quite a bit more friction associated with them.

 

I removed the bolt that retains the lower seat belt strap before I removed that piece, and replaced that trim before I replaced that seat belt bolt, I did not confirm that you NEED to do it in this order, thought. I didn't check to see if that bolt also retains the trim as well. 

awesome , thank you sir

Posted
 
I found that the other day, but wow, it's pricey, especially while missing the rear power ports..  Still tempting though....
I don't know. The armrest itself is $300 from GM. That lower storage is worth it if you ask me. I paid $460 shipped for one of the jumpseats above in this thread... I dont regret a dollar of it... [emoji16] For as hard as it has been to find one and the damaged armrests everyone keeps getting from GM. The storage is nice...

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
13 minutes ago, TrustyDusty said:

I don't know. The armrest itself is $300 from GM. That lower storage is worth it if you ask me. I paid $460 shipped for one of the jumpseats above in this thread... I dont regret a dollar of it... emoji16.png For as hard as it has been to find one and the damaged armrests everyone keeps getting from GM. The storage is nice...

I know, I know....  I'm still holding out hope to get one for cheaper from car-parts dot com. 

 

There's one listed, with the AZ3 option code, and the picture shows the locking bottom storage compartment and the rear usb/power ports, but when I emailed the seller he claims that it has no storage, and then he didn't respond to me any more. 

 

I thought that if the center jump seat had the bottom storage compartment, it would automatically have the top storage compartment too.  Am I wrong?

 

Posted
I know, I know....  I'm still holding out hope to get one for cheaper from car-parts dot com. 
 
There's one listed, with the AZ3 option code, and the picture shows the locking bottom storage compartment and the rear usb/power ports, but when I emailed the seller he claims that it has no storage, and then he didn't respond to me any more. 
 
I thought that if the center jump seat had the bottom storage compartment, it would automatically have the top storage compartment too.  Am I wrong?
 
I would think that your assumption is correct. I remember seeing one on ebay with the usb and power, but without storage which I thought was strange. I don't remember seeing one on ebay that has bottom storage, but no top storage though.

One way to tell if the bottom has storage is if it is plastic from the lid down. If it doesn't have storage, the bottom is all cloth.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
19 minutes ago, TrustyDusty said:

I would think that your assumption is correct. I remember seeing one on ebay with the usb and power, but without storage which I thought was strange. I don't remember seeing one on ebay that has bottom storage, but no top storage though.

One way to tell if the bottom has storage is if it is plastic from the lid down. If it doesn't have storage, the bottom is all cloth.

Thanks for the tip!  I was wondering if there was a way to visually identify if the console has storage or not. 

I will look for it being plastic from the lid down.  Awesome!

Posted
7 hours ago, Railroad_Jim said:

Thanks for the tip!  I was wondering if there was a way to visually identify if the console has storage or not. 

I will look for it being plastic from the lid down.  Awesome!

I found the entire unit with bottom storage that was taken out of a wrecked truck.  Try car-part.com

Posted

I found the entire center console seat from a wrecked one and replaced the non-storage version in my work truck to the version with full storage (both under the lid and under the seat).  But, the work truck doesn't have the wiring harness for the power/USB ports the new console.  Does anyone know if the wiring harness can be purchased and, if so, how to connect it so that I can have power to the rear passenger ports on the back of the console?

Posted
I found the entire unit with bottom storage that was taken out of a wrecked truck.  Try car-part.com
How much did you pay for the jumpseat? The going rate seems to be a wide range...

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 2/1/2020 at 4:39 PM, Railroad_Jim said:

Thanks for the tip!  I was wondering if there was a way to visually identify if the console has storage or not. 

I will look for it being plastic from the lid down.  Awesome!

I misunderstood your tip.  You must be talking about the bottom storage compartment, not the top section.  I had noticed what you were saying on the bottom of the seat, and saw that it is plastic to the bottom if it has storage.

 

I was hoping that there was an easy visual way to identify if the top section of the console has the storage compartment.  It looks like there might be a slightly different corner of the leather armrest part between the two, with the storage version having a sharper angle.

 

Posted
I misunderstood your tip.  You must be talking about the bottom storage compartment, not the top section.  I had noticed what you were saying on the bottom of the seat, and saw that it is plastic to the bottom if it has storage.
 
I was hoping that there was an easy visual way to identify if the top section of the console has the storage compartment.  It looks like there might be a slightly different corner of the leather armrest part between the two, with the storage version having a sharper angle.
 
Unless it has been modified, I don't think you can get the lower storage without the top storage. Therefore if you see the plastic on the lower indicating storage, the whole thing should have storage.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, TrustyDusty said:

How much did you pay for the jumpseat? The going rate seems to be a wide range...

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

$400 which included shipping from Michigan to California... so not too bad.

Posted
10 hours ago, TrustyDusty said:

Unless it has been modified, I don't think you can get the lower storage without the top storage. Therefore if you see the plastic on the lower indicating storage, the whole thing should have storage.

 

That was my thought too, and I hope that we're both right, as I just ordered a used one that has pictures that shows the bottom lockable storage compartment and rear USB/power ports!

 

I'm saying some prayers that they send me the one in the pictures....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...