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L83 to L86 swap

Clutch Bo
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flyingfool
flyingfool

i dont see why you need a different ecu. mechanically identical engines, besides the different displacements and maybe forged internals. so much cheaper to just turbo the 5.3

Clutch Bo
Clutch Bo

guys i hardly ever tow, it’s strictly for the power haha

Snowcamo
Snowcamo

Do the swap. It'll give us a guide to follow. Not much info or knowledgeable folk out there... Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, SierraHD17 said:

 

Ok.. nothing you said makes any real sense and is actually just rubbish. The rods aren't longer...I mean if you knew anything about how this works you would realize the rods are actually going to be shorter as stroke increases unless the pin height raises or the deck.... look no further than the 4.8 and the 5.3 for rod length using the same piston.   The rods are the exact same length as the mighty LT1.... Yes I know for a fact as I have a connecting rod from a 6.6 new in the box sitting right in front of me.  6.098" center to center just like the rest of them.  Why do I have one rod?   Wanted to see if to use the new crank in my LS3/L9H 6.2 block I would need pistons with an altered pin height or buy the rods... well looks like pistons for me.  So whether they upped the deck height on the 6.6 or just moved piston pin height I won't know until I get a block.

 

Funny you mention long rod... odd how all those 800+ wheel hp 4.8's survive under boost with a longer connecting rod bahahahahaha.

 

Guys used to say this sort of stuff back when they thought the 5.7 LS1 was unbeatable.... my how things have changed.

 

 

My bad, same rod as the L96. Probably same crank too and the wrist pin location or decked by 6mm like you say. Either way, strokers are great for torque, but not optimal for high HP due to increased piston speeds. Those little 4.8L's have a slower overall piston speed even if engine rpm is higher due to the shorter stroke. Many people used to build destroker LS using the 4.8L crank and a 4" + bore. I am curious to see what this can do like the LQ9's did under boost. I would still choose the L86 motor for the weight savings personally, most guys are only going to do bolt ons anyway, I don't think OP is trying to make 1000+. Time will tell what the L9T will do. 

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's not the same crank lol.. the stroke is 3.86" instead of 3.622".  These things are all published anywhere.  And it's the L8T... not L9T that doesn't exist so maybe that will help you look them up lol.  

 

You just said long rod is no good for performance under boost but now the 4.8 is... lol.   So much for the bending long rods theory then. You really should look into the performance world... Nobody destrokes anything unless they just want to be different for the sake of being different.  The LQ4/LQ9/LY6/L96 all do fantastic under boost... I can say that because I actually have two boosted 6 liters myself.    

 

But this isn't about 1000 wheel or boost...it's a real simple post about increasing performance.  This 6.6 will make more torque and more horsepower all over the rpm band versus a 6.2... and it's going to be cheaper to buy.  There is literally zero reason to buy a 6.2 for a swap with a larger cheaper alternative not riddled with AFM available.  It's a no brainer.  The mystique associated with the apparent "prestige" of "aluminum blocks" continues lol.

 

I can't believe someone is arguing about 100 lbs difference in a 6000 lb truck... that's literally hilarious.

 

That said I am done.  The info is there and out there for anyone interested.  

Edited by SierraHD17
L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

It's not the same crank lol.. the stroke is 3.86" instead of 3.622".  These things are all published anywhere.  And it's the L8T... not L9T that doesn't exist so maybe that will help you look them up lol.  

 

You just said long rod is no good for performance under boost but now the 4.8 is... lol.   So much for the bending long rods theory then. You really should look into the performance world... Nobody destrokes anything unless they just want to be different for the sake of being different.  The LQ4/LQ9/LY6/L96 all do fantastic under boost... I can say that because I actually have two boosted 6 liters myself.    

 

But this isn't about 1000 wheel or boost...it's a real simple post about increasing performance.  This 6.6 will make more torque and more horsepower all over the rpm band versus a 6.2... and it's going to be cheaper to buy.  There is literally zero reason to buy a 6.2 for a swap with a larger cheaper alternative not riddled with AFM available.  It's a no brainer.  The mystique associated with the apparent "prestige" of "aluminum blocks" continues lol.

 

I can't believe someone is arguing about 100 lbs difference in a 6000 lb truck... that's literally hilarious.

 

That said I am done.  The info is there and out there for anyone interested.  

Im not arguing with you, just stating the 6.6 is a gutless work turd, 6.2L is a performance engine. Build one if you want. Never seen someone so butthurt about not agreeing with their favourite engine. But I guess everyone is pretty pouty and salty in Alberta right now. Call me when the put the 6.6L in the Corvette because "it will make more hp throughout the entire power band" lol. :cheers:

  • Like 1
SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Im not arguing with you, just stating the 6.6 is a gutless work turd, 6.2L is a performance engine. Build one if you want. Never seen someone so butthurt about not agreeing with their favourite engine. But I guess everyone is pretty pouty and salty in Alberta right now. Call me when the put the 6.6L in the Corvette because "it will make more hp throughout the entire power band" lol. :cheers:

Wow... amazing comeback.   Have a good one.

Edited by SierraHD17
truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, SierraHD17 said:

 

The guy is swapping for more power and will be tuning his truck in doing so.  So who cares about the stock numbers lol.  I mean are you suggesting it has to be left to an unknown bone stock tune wise for 87 octane gas like the HD truck too.  Just tune the thing.... it will absolutely rape a 6.2 lol.  Mod for mod it will eat a 6.2... Stock is tuned for 87 fuel so put some ignition timing in it and let it eat.  150 lbs is likely closer to 80 to 100 lbs just like the LS iron to aluminum... 100 lbs....whooptee f'ing do on a 6000 lb truck lol.  3200 lb car.. might care... double that?  Nope lol.

 

It's a 6.2 with a longer stroke and this isn't hard lol.  I know I know... it has 10.8:1 compression... if you think 0.7:1 will offset 25 cubic inches of displacement gained you need to think again.

 

Take the almighty L86 and stroke it... oh wait... GM did it for you and put it in the Heavy duty truck lineup lol.

 

Or.. you know what?  It's actually better to think the 6.2 is all that with a bag of chips so the price can stay nice and high and let this worthless fleet truck engine be cheap for the rest of us wanting to make power.  As I already said.. the 6.6 is the new 6 liter replacement and will be coming to you in wrecking yards across the country in the next couple years for a couple hundred dollars.

It will certainly not mod for mod beat a 6.2

 

you’re forgetting about the compression ratio

 

It’s likely just behind the 6.2 in every single mod, just like it is stock.

 

The only advantage it will hold is all big hp builds. And when you’re at that point, does it really matter which one you started with?

  • 1 month later...
DenaliX14 Enthusiast

DenaliX14

Posted
Posted

Eh, go to Texas Speed and Performance and buy a Gen V re-sleeved 6.2  with a total displacement of 7.0L. Grab some of their proprietary forged internals. 
 

It will handle any and all “the fun”  you can throw at it. 
 

or you can buy my spare 6.2L with diamond pistons. Just needs new rod bearings. That’s way cheaper. ? 

  • 8 months later...
Slowverado New Member

Slowverado

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado with the l83 linked to a 6l80 transmission. I really want to drop out the l83 and 6l80 and drop in a l86 with the 8l90. First of all is that even possible? Considering this would be the first time I will be swapping an engine. But then I remembered about all the computer bullshit so know I’m hesitant. I would have to reprogram the ECU

  • 2 years later...
moneypit14 New Member

moneypit14

Posted
Posted

did you ever swap the motor is my question lol. because i have a 2014 sliverado that had a 5.3 in it but i swapped it with 2016 6.2. i installed a 235/239 TSP cam shaft with long tube headers, full stainless exhaust, and 2600-2800 stall. im having issues with the cam position senor codes. P0340 P0341. i've changed the senors, i've torn the motor back down to see if something was wrong internally but nothing is wrong. everything looks good just cant figure this issue out. maybe some one can help. also its been to a dyno shop and he's telling me the cam is advanced but its not.

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