bad bounce while towing

[rusty01]

We do have a waste disposal with a scale near by. Maybe I will call em up and see if I can weigh up there.

[Z45]

If you have not already done so I would check with your insurace agent to see if your insurace will cover you with that trailer being pulled by that truck. Insurance companies are always looking for ways to get out of paying insurance claims and the adjusters are trained to look for things that they can blame on the insurer to avoid paying a claim. Just saying, protect yourself from any possible liability.

[rusty01]

As long as I am within the manufacurer specs for weight I don't see how they couldn't cover it.

[brainpause]

As long as I am within the manufacurer specs for weight I don't see how they couldn't cover it.

 

 

I have 06 Silverado 1500. Scaled mine. I'm slightly over GCVWR of 12000#, IIRC, when loaded. And my trailer is lighter than yours. Be careful, bud.

[music]

What size WD bars do you have? My camper is a little lighter, but a very heavy tongue, and I use 1200 lb Reese DC bars. Sits solid, and no bounce. I'd be concerned about too little tongue weight before I would too much, but that's my experience. The other part that hasn't been mentioned is tires/pressure. If you push around on the camper/truck w/ it hooked up, there's probably a lot of motion in the tires... especially if running 35 psi. I bump the rear p-metric to 44 psi and the front to 40 when towing (max on the tires is 44), but LT tires at higher pressure are obviously better (even better if mounted to a 2500HD, or course). The next set will probably be LT's for towing the camper, but I don't currently have any "bounce"... except on those choice highways where you have a joint spaced just right at 60 mph to set up an oscillation (porpoising). A 5th wheel on a dually will do the same thing under those conditions.

[00Silverado4x4]

Hey Larry, just so you know your truck should be rated the same as mine at 13k lbs GCWR.

[nbscanuck]

Your trailer is 6300 lbs dry weight. A lot of manufactures consider dry weight without fridge, furnance, mattresses, hot water water tank, propane tanks etc that all adds up in a hurry. Add to that gear, your supplies (food, clothes, etc.) water. Even whether your fuel tank is full or empty. You could very easily be over the rated limits of your truck. Get it weighed and find out.

 

The porpoising that you are describing isn't going to be fixed by shocks. You are near the limits of your springs. Your springs is what supports the weight. The shock absorb the little imperfections in the road. I get that feeling when I don't have enough air in my air bags. Since you are near the GVW ratings for your truck, air bags or helper leaf springs are going to aid you more. I have Firestone air bags in my truck. I run around 50 PSI in them when I'm loaded as pictured in my signature. I haul 40 gallons of water as well. I like air bags over helpers because I can let the air out and truck rides nice. Helper springs are there all the time and effect ride quality all the time.

[nht mike]

Hello! I'm going to stick with my "bars not heavy enough"! I really like at least some of the tongue weight on the steer axle. If you don't have a scale that is convenient for you use what I call a "story pole". Set your truck on level surface. Then put a referance mark on a stick for the front and back. I use the front air dam and the rear hitch tube. Hook up the trailer and see where the drop is. You should have the rear drop and, in my case, the front drop. You should never have the front higher when the trailer is hooked up.

 

I think the stick is really a good idea. If you are to load some fire wood or something you can check in a second to see what it does to your load.

 

Mike

[Z45]

I dug this up from a Chevy website. See how close you truck comes to meeting these spec's

 

When equipped with the awesome Max Trailering Pack, a Silverado; Crew Cab; can haul up to 1980 lbs. of whatever it takes to get the job done, and Extended Cab models can tow up to 10,700 lbs. The package includes the powerful Vortec; 6.2L V8 SFI engine, heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential, Handling/Trailering Suspension Package, 9.5" rear axle, 3.73 rear axle ratio, 4 17" x 7.5" 6-lug aluminum wheels, P265/70R17 on-/off-road blackwall tires, fog lamps, front and rear disc brakes and Trailering Package.

Standard Box only. Not available on Z71 Off-Road Package.

 

1 Maximum payload capacity includes weight of driver, passengers, optional equipment and cargo.

2 Maximum trailer weight ratings are calculated assuming a properly equipped base vehicle plus driver. See dealer for details.

 

 

 

Max Trailering Pack, includes (L9H) Vortec 6.2L V8 SFI engine,

(G80) heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential, (Z85)

Handling/Trailering Suspension Package, (AXN) 9.5" (24.1 cm)

hybrid rear axle, (GT4) 3.73 rear axle ratio, (JD9) front and rear

disc brakes, (Z82) Trailering package, (T96) fog lamps, (N88) 17"

x 7.5" (43.2 cm x 19.1 cm) 6-lug polished cast aluminum wheels

and (QJP) P265/70R17 on-/off-road, blackwall tires

1 - Requires T*10753 or T*10543 models. TK10543 and TK10753

Models also include (NQH) electronic Autotrac transfer case.

Option content within this package may not be substituted or

deleted. Not available with (Z71) Off-Road Suspension Package.

 

 

[Blue2500CC]

TY Brainpause!

 

Rusty, what is your trucks GVWR, 6000lb's? If so, you may be a little more overweight than you think.

 

What is the CCC sticker in the drivers door jamb read? That will give you an idea how much your truck weighs without gas when you subtract that # from the trucks GVWR. How much do you load in the bed?

 

It is crazy how quick things add up weightwise inside the trailer, or even the truck bed!

 

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Chris

[rusty01]

What size WD bars do you have? My camper is a little lighter, but a very heavy tongue, and I use 1200 lb Reese DC bars. Sits solid, and no bounce. I'd be concerned about too little tongue weight before I would too much, but that's my experience. The other part that hasn't been mentioned is tires/pressure. If you push around on the camper/truck w/ it hooked up, there's probably a lot of motion in the tires... especially if running 35 psi. I bump the rear p-metric to 44 psi and the front to 40 when towing (max on the tires is 44), but LT tires at higher pressure are obviously better (even better if mounted to a 2500HD, or course). The next set will probably be LT's for towing the camper, but I don't currently have any "bounce"... except on those choice highways where you have a joint spaced just right at 60 mph to set up an oscillation (porpoising). A 5th wheel on a dually will do the same thing under those conditions.

 

 

My bars are 1200# as well. I have all 4 tires pumped up to the rated max of 44 psi.

 

Your trailer is 6300 lbs dry weight. A lot of manufactures consider dry weight without fridge, furnance, mattresses, hot water water tank, propane tanks etc that all adds up in a hurry. Add to that gear, your supplies (food, clothes, etc.) water. Even whether your fuel tank is full or empty. You could very easily be over the rated limits of your truck. Get it weighed and find out.

 

The porpoising that you are describing isn't going to be fixed by shocks. You are near the limits of your springs. Your springs is what supports the weight. The shock absorb the little imperfections in the road. I get that feeling when I don't have enough air in my air bags. Since you are near the GVW ratings for your truck, air bags or helper leaf springs are going to aid you more. I have Firestone air bags in my truck. I run around 50 PSI in them when I'm loaded as pictured in my signature. I haul 40 gallons of water as well. I like air bags over helpers because I can let the air out and truck rides nice. Helper springs are there all the time and effect ride quality all the time.

 

 

Supposedly my particular camper gets weighed just before it is shipped out. It comes loaded with full LP tanks, battery, fridge etc from manufacturer. I have thought the idea of air bags and may add some come next sumer, unless financial situation changes and I can get a bigger truck! lol

 

I dug this up from a Chevy website. See how close you truck comes to meeting these spec's

 

When equipped with the awesome Max Trailering Pack, a Silverado; Crew Cab; can haul up to 1980 lbs. of whatever it takes to get the job done, and Extended Cab models can tow up to 10,700 lbs. The package includes the powerful Vortec; 6.2L V8 SFI engine, heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential, Handling/Trailering Suspension Package, 9.5" rear axle, 3.73 rear axle ratio, 4 17" x 7.5" 6-lug aluminum wheels, P265/70R17 on-/off-road blackwall tires, fog lamps, front and rear disc brakes and Trailering Package.

Standard Box only. Not available on Z71 Off-Road Package.

 

1 Maximum payload capacity includes weight of driver, passengers, optional equipment and cargo.

2 Maximum trailer weight ratings are calculated assuming a properly equipped base vehicle plus driver. See dealer for details.

 

 

 

Max Trailering Pack, includes (L9H) Vortec 6.2L V8 SFI engine,

(G80) heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential, (Z85)

Handling/Trailering Suspension Package, (AXN) 9.5" (24.1 cm)

hybrid rear axle, (GT4) 3.73 rear axle ratio, (JD9) front and rear

disc brakes, (Z82) Trailering package, (T96) fog lamps, (N88) 17"

x 7.5" (43.2 cm x 19.1 cm) 6-lug polished cast aluminum wheels

and (QJP) P265/70R17 on-/off-road, blackwall tires

1 - Requires T*10753 or T*10543 models. TK10543 and TK10753

Models also include (NQH) electronic Autotrac transfer case.

Option content within this package may not be substituted or

deleted. Not available with (Z71) Off-Road Suspension Package.

 

 

 

 

So in my glove box I see a series a numbers that include "Z82" and "Z85". I do know I have the trailer tow package. As for the locking rear diff, rear tires have never "locked" for me so I doubt it. And I have the 5.3. Wish I had the 6.2!

 

TY Brainpause!

 

Rusty, what is your trucks GVWR, 6000lb's? If so, you may be a little more overweight than you think.

 

What is the CCC sticker in the drivers door jamb read? That will give you an idea how much your truck weighs without gas when you subtract that # from the trucks GVWR. How much do you load in the bed?

 

It is crazy how quick things add up weightwise inside the trailer, or even the truck bed!

 

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Chris

 

 

GVWR is 6400. I thought it was like 7000 but guess not. Not much in bed of truck, maybe 300# of fire wood and fishing gear.

[rusty01]

Hello! I'm going to stick with my "bars not heavy enough"! I really like at least some of the tongue weight on the steer axle. If you don't have a scale that is convenient for you use what I call a "story pole". Set your truck on level surface. Then put a referance mark on a stick for the front and back. I use the front air dam and the rear hitch tube. Hook up the trailer and see where the drop is. You should have the rear drop and, in my case, the front drop. You should never have the front higher when the trailer is hooked up.

 

I think the stick is really a good idea. If you are to load some fire wood or something you can check in a second to see what it does to your load.

 

Mike

 

 

I think I am going to put more wieght on the front axle. The way it sits now the front of the truck is just slightly higher then the rear. I'll try more weight and see what that does next time I haul.

[Zembonez]

Since it's clear you are towing at the limit of what truck is really able to do properly, you might try some helper bags for the rear springs. They won't increase your load carrying capacity, but they can help the springs to "not bottom out" and help with control and ride.

[nht mike]

My hitch is an EZ Lift that uses a rivit with shims on top and a pinch bolt on the bottom to adjust the tilt. After getting it close using the Ez Lift shims, which are just hardened washers, I use front end alignment shims to dial it in. Using the front end shims you can just loosen the bolts and slip in the shims. The rivit is too long to remove with out taking the hitch head completely apart. One front end shim is about 1/2 link on the adjustment chain.

 

Mike

[yukon_denali_05]

If you have not done so already, pls confirm the type of tires you're running and the psi that you're running them at with the trailer loaded. You need 10 ply tires to handle that load safely no matter what type of equipment you have with that weight