Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Notified the dealership I was experiencing a vibration in the steering wheel of my 2014 Silverado. Had 750 miles on it. Guy sweeping the floors balanced the tires. Did nothing to fix the problem. After driving it another 700 miles I brought it back. They kept it for 2 days - but the vehicle never moved from the spot where I parked it until a few hours before picking it up. The cashier/mechanic said it drove like the other 2014s on the lot. This is my 3rd Silverado purchased new. None ever drove like this one. Guy said sometimes you just have to live with "quirks". Steering is solid as a rock up to about 50 then has a vibration up to about 60 mph. Ruins the driving experience. Is most apparent when coasting or applying light amount of power- but persists under all driving conditions. I'm guessing its an adjustment that needs to be made to the engine or transmission (not tires) but the dealership doesn't have the technical expertise to diagnose and/or just doesn't care. A few times I've experienced a loss of power for an instant, hear a rattle then everything is normal again. The kind of problem you can't produce on demand for a mechanic. Had high hopes for this truck given all the promo and price paid but will never buy another GM vehicle if this doesn't get resolved. Expressed my dissatisfaction on GM survey - got a call, registered the compliant, nothing after that. I guess it was just a bunch of BS about customer satisfaction.

Posted

Just curious if anyone with the factory 22" rims and the dueler tires are having this issue?

Posted

Notified the dealership I was experiencing a vibration in the steering wheel of my 2014 Silverado. Had 750 miles on it. Guy sweeping the floors balanced the tires. Did nothing to fix the problem. After driving it another 700 miles I brought it back. They kept it for 2 days - but the vehicle never moved from the spot where I parked it until a few hours before picking it up. The cashier/mechanic said it drove like the other 2014s on the lot. This is my 3rd Silverado purchased new. None ever drove like this one. Guy said sometimes you just have to live with "quirks". Steering is solid as a rock up to about 50 then has a vibration up to about 60 mph. Ruins the driving experience. Is most apparent when coasting or applying light amount of power- but persists under all driving conditions. I'm guessing its an adjustment that needs to be made to the engine or transmission (not tires) but the dealership doesn't have the technical expertise to diagnose and/or just doesn't care. A few times I've experienced a loss of power for an instant, hear a rattle then everything is normal again. The kind of problem you can't produce on demand for a mechanic. Had high hopes for this truck given all the promo and price paid but will never buy another GM vehicle if this doesn't get resolved. Expressed my dissatisfaction on GM survey - got a call, registered the compliant, nothing after that. I guess it was just a bunch of BS about customer satisfaction.

 

Some times you need to just try to fix it your self. You do not say where you are located, but Find a good tire shop that can check run out (roundness) on the tire and do a good road force balance. You are not glued to the dealership. A tire shop that carries that line can warranty a bad tire. I would just trade the junk oems for Michelins and get on with things. If that does not correct it then look elsewhere on the ride for the problem. At least you will have good tires. Or you can beat your head against the wall with this unresponsive dealer.

Posted

I have the factory 22's with Bridgestone tires and mine rides like a Cadillac. Best riding vehicle I've ever owned.vavyvu8a.jpg

Sent from my SCH-I535

Me too, that's why I asked ;-)
Posted

I have the 18" rims and tires on a 4 door LTZ. they stock Goodyear tires were out of round and the dealer put on Bridgestones. but the steering wheel still vibrates constantly. and you end up with a numb feeling in your hands after a few miles. also every time you hit even the smallest bump it feel really harsh. I was hoping customer service at GM would do something but I may have to start the long process of trying to lemon law this after one more repair attempt. Boy if GM doesn't step up and offer another vehicle then I will share my experience on every website known. That may discourage other buyers. Go buy a ford

Posted

2014 Silverado TX edition 20 in wheels Same problem vibration from 65 to 80 a very rough ride you feel everything on the road, had loss of power but like they say you can prove that to the dealer ..1st time at the dealer with 235 miles They have changed 2 rear tire ( Goodyear ) centered motor and transmission mount. 2nd time I took it in they road forced tires and shimmed a motor mount ..But still no fix. I am waiting on a new set of continental tire which should be on the truck by Friday. I will keep you all posted..I am Very disappointed in GM... They are blaming the tires but I think its more than that...

Posted

2014 Silverado TX edition 20 in wheels Same problem vibration from 65 to 80 a very rough ride you feel everything on the road, had loss of power but like they say you can prove that to the dealer ..1st time at the dealer with 235 miles They have changed 2 rear tire ( Goodyear ) centered motor and transmission mount. 2nd time I took it in they road forced tires and shimmed a motor mount ..But still no fix. I am waiting on a new set of continental tire which should be on the truck by Friday. I will keep you all posted..I am Very disappointed in GM... They are blaming the tires but I think its more than that...

My money would be bet that it's the tires!

Posted

My vibration seems to come in at 35 mph and stay until 60 while accelerating, slow or fast accelerating doesn't seem to matter. At 60mph and up I still feel it but not as bad and have noticed it come back at around 75. As far as the ride this is the worst riding vehicle I've owned! I feel everything on the road and if it's not every road repair strip then it's a constant odd light vibration in the steering wheel, my 04 z71 was smoother. Add that to the transmission with random hard shifts and feeling like its in too high of a gear and lugging at 55 to 60 mph. The newest greatest thing is, now that it's cold out the AFM transitions can be down right horrifying! Sometimes it feels like it's getting stuck while transitioning, yesterday if felt like I ran over a dead deer or something it shook so hard, it actually startled me. Warmer temps like above 30 it seems ok and not all transitions are harsh when cold. Im not the only one that feels these things, other passengers comment on it too. I want to buy new tires to see if it helps the vibration but with all the other issues I'm contemplating on trading it off in the spring.

Posted (edited)

Don't buy new tires. make GM buy you new tires. Your Goodyears are total garbage! Every single person I know of complaining about the vibration have Goodyears. You don't hear the people with the Bridgestone's or the Continental's complaining of the vibrations. Make the dealership road force balance the tires and check them for roundness. If they can't do it make them pay for you to take it some place. Call GM customer care if they refuse and demand it (personally I'd demand new tires made by another company). As far as the shifting and AFM is concerned have you had the most recent updates done? There are two updates out there concerning both of these systems...

Edited by BringTheRain403
Posted

No mater what truck I own I want the Goodyear Duratrac, I do a lot of deep snow driving and for that there second to none (had them on my 04) and I know the dealer isn't going to go for that. As far as the AFM updates I had recall #1330 AFM Calibration and reprogram ECM and TCM done on 10/13 and that seems to be when I started having the issues but that's also the same time the temps started to drop. We have had a few warmer days since then and it seems work fine. I haven't had any updates on the shifting yet.

Posted

I have the vibration at 35-50 mph feel it most in the floor. 14 double cab lt with 17s and bridgestones. Haven't taken it in just yet but I was a gm tech and I'm thinking the tcm issue that one guy found makes most sense as it's intermittent and doesn't fluctuate with speed. I'm going to take it in sometime soon and suggest these things and possibly a reflash if available. Mine isn't quite as bad as I'm hearing but it's enough that I feel it in my feet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...