Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sad part is you are probably right, i just don't know if my Toyota dealer cares or not as i've only had to go there for an oil change.

Posted

Sad part is you are probably right, i just don't know if my Toyota dealer cares or not as i've only had to go there for an oil change.

If you fellows expect truck manufacturers (any producers of a product or service for that matter) to care about you in the same way that you care about perhaps a family member or close friend then you're being naive and don't understand how free enterprise works. Using our favorite topic, the Silverado; if these various issues listed in these 623 pages are as prevalent in the customer product pool as some on this forum contend then we will see a decline in GM sales, market share and eventually profit. These factors are what motivates GM, Ford, Ram, Toyota to correct problems and take action to build quality products. I'm too lazy to research empirical data on this but based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales? Just a little Econ 101 question :)

  • Like 2
Posted

...based upon what I've read Ford, GM, Ram sales remains fairly constant relative to each other. And, Toyota has been sitting on about the same market share relative to the big three as well. So, one has to wonder if Toyota builds such a superior product why isn't this reflected in their sales?

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

  • Like 1
Posted

I hear the new Nissan is nice

 

 

 

lol

The overweight pig? Lol, those trucks are hideous

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

Posted

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

Posted

Some have had their issues resolved with new ring and pinion and some with new rims and tires but no real cure all that any of us have heard of. But go back 4 or 5 pages, there are links to a couple videos about isolating the e-brake cable. Couldn't hurt to try.

Posted

I am looking at buying a 2016 Sierra and this has me worried. I can get a really nice SLT for much less than a comparable Ford right now because of July 4th sale. Does everyone have this damn issue? Should I just stick with Ford's? Maybe and Ecodiesel from Ram? I had problems with my 2010 F150, now having problems with my F250.............Toyota?

 

Anyways, not to rant, but seriously, how wide spread is the vibration issue? Is there even a correct answer? I know I read the report of SUV's making people car sick. Related?

I bought a new 2016 Silverado Z71 couple days before the 4th of July. Next evening left for Hilton head Island from central pa. Never heard of the vibration issues and luckily have none yet. Had it up to the mid 90's on a couple stretches just running with traffic, smooth as silk. Nearly 5k miles now. Still smooth as silk today. I must admit I am a bit worried now and also feel for those of you who are experiencing this issue . I would be very upset if I had any of these vibration issues. I love this truck and can't imagine having all these problems. I pro-toured my early 70's Nova and had fits getting the driveline angles spot on to eliminate vibrations. I did not read all 623 pages but enough to know there seems to be no cure all. I will continue to follow this thread to learn what I can. Lots of good stuff here in this Silverado forum.

Posted (edited)

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

Matt I agree with you to read the entire thread is a waste of life LOL. I owned a 2014 CC Z71 with 5.3 6 spd for 2.5 yrs and over 60k miles. I tossed the factory GY SRA's at less than 20k and bought the best 20" michelins I could find. Eliminated 90% of my vibration issues. My 2016 Denali is riding fairly smooth so far (less than 2k miles) on the factory GY SRA's but if they start acting up when they get some wear on them I will burn those succas and get some 20" Michelins again. My personal theory on all this is that the majority of the problem is with all these oversize wheels and tires nowadays it is almost impossible to properly balance especially with low quality tires.

 

You had mentioned your torque converter and I saw a thread about a torque converter replacement being the FIX on a 8 spd trans not sure if that would help on a 6 spd. here is the link http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/187450-who-likes-their-8-speed/ I thought that it was interesting that his dealership ran a torque converter slippage test and his had to be replaced and that FIXED his truck so there may actually be something to your torque converter theory.

Edited by MyFavTruck
Posted

Don't own a Toyota so I'm not speaking on their behalf, but sometimes Red, White, and Blue runs deep regardless of quality. In some folks mind, anything less just won't do.

But what most don't seem to get is that there is only two "American" truck companies (Dodge is owned by Fiat), and those two companies like to employ Mexicans instead of Americans to build a large portion of their products while their Japanese competitors employ a lot of Americans workers to build their vehicles. I stopped caring about if a vehicle is "American" or not years ago because there is no such thing anymore.

  • Like 2
Posted

Ok. Here's the deal. Just bought a 2014 GMC 1500. GY Wranger tires. Test drive was fine. Noticed a little vibration, blamed the road. Since then, came across this thread of issues. Started reading from the beginning, and 179 pages into it, I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to share my findings and ask some basic questions to save another 3 days of my life.

 

So, I bought the truck. Yes. Noticed the vibration. Initially thought u-joint. You see, the vibration starts then I'm off the accelerator. Not on it. Generally the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, and I can "hear" or feel the vibration Start when decelerating at 58 MPH. I don't notice it so much when I'm accelerating, or driving high speeds. I will admit that, at this point, I'm not on the highway much, but have tested it lightly.

 

The vibration is not earth shattering. Yes, there is a vibration. Yes, it is noticeable. Yes, I have not tested it under a tow load. Yes, it is annoying.

 

I've also tested the vibration by moving it into neutral, and it seems to go away (somewhat). Based on this, I immediately thought of the u joint, or torque converter. I'm leaning towards torque converter since it diminishes when in neutral, and immediately starts up when shifted back into drive.

 

Not sure if there's a logic solution, or a GM fix issued yet, but I can't read over 600 pages of posts all repeating themselves.

 

So, I ask, is there a GM fix? Is it the torque converter? This site has been very insightful. Any suggestion or feedback would be appreciated.

 

Matt from PA.

 

 

 

 

It could be your drive line angle is changing to far out of spec on decel, the engine is acting as an engine brake in return twisting the pinion down, that may explain why it goes away in neutral because then the engine isnt trying to slow down the pinion speed and keeping it more in line.

Posted

Agree. And, truck people are some of the most brand loyal folks on the planet for sure. A fact, not advertised enough apparently, is that Toyota Tundra has the most domestic content of the bunch. But, I think even the most ardent and loyal person will eventually dump a brand if it's perceived to be problem ridden. Example; I started driving Fords in the early 80's because I liked their extended cab and at that time GM only built a standard cab. Then, after about three iterations of Fords I went back to Chevy because of constant front-end alignment problems with Fords much vaunted Twin I-Beam front suspension system. As a last ditch attempt to correct a known problem Ford eventually came up with eccentric king pin bushings so that front wheels could be adjusted for camber and caster but it was too late for me. Consequently, Ford lost me for good. And, I have bought a bunch Chevy trucks and Suburbans since then, lost sales to Ford, lol !

Check out this article from USA TODAY:

GM posts strong second quarter, jolting stock

 

http://usat.ly/29X4m41

Posted

Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

Posted (edited)

Well, I'm going to go with the Michelins. Anyone have a recommendation? Might was well "go big or go home" right? Give me the top two Michelin tires.

I'm looking at the LTX's. Defender? A/T 2's?

Thoughts?

Defender or AT2

personally I'd go AT2

Edited by Jesse D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...