Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just for information purposes, where is everyone's truck produced? is there any correlation to a plant? Mine was made in Mexico, is it also happening at the Indiana plant?

Posted

This is my problem also, GM not co-operating dealer is useless started legal actions to get it fixed or buy back, no more pissing around with this nonsense.

You are not alone in this, what is your build date of your truck.

build date 9/13

Posted

Thanks for the recap and going out of you way to give us all the details! The question is, why do some vibrate and some don't? If it was inherit in the design, all of them would do it not just a handful. It has to be bad parts etc. I still think the driveshaft is culprit and would like to see the results of going to a driveline shot and having then balance it and/or check the run out and yokes etc.

 

in a mechanical system there are always tolerances for every part in it and certain ranges deemed acceptable. In something with as many parts and moving parts as a vehicle no 2 will be the same. Add to that assembly methods and different plants, techs, engineers doing measurements you can have variance all over the board.

 

The design of the frame, engine, rear end, drive shift etc. Something is obviously too close to the limit when it comes to natural frequencies of vibration. When certain parts end up on the right end of the tolerances, and probably a combination of other factors such as assembly methods u get the vibrations showing up in some and not others.

 

Talking from experience in mechanical system design. I have a bachelor's in mechanical engineering and am a licensed professional engineer in multiple states.

Posted (edited)

Totally agree with the tolerances. Something is right on the edge. What gets me is the fact that my 2013 for bought back by GM for the same vibration that I now have in my 2014. So some of the parts have to be similar in the two trucks that are causing it. I might just go to an independent driveline shop and see what they say just so a few of us can rule that out if it isn't that and if it is, it's a relatively cheap fix. If anybody beats me to the driveline shop please let me know what you come up with!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

I'm on a staycation all next week watching my 14 week old son so Im really going to try and make it to a drive line shop sometime during the week. The tires on my truck were @ 42 lbs from the factory and I put them @ 32 & the vibration is almost gone. I still think its the shaft and maybe shitty u joints as others keep saying. I'm going to have it balanced as well as new u joints.

Posted

This is my problem also, GM not co-operating dealer is useless started legal actions to get it fixed or buy back, no more pissing around with this nonsense.

You are not alone in this, what is your build date of your truck.

Good move

Posted

Well I was talking to a family friend tonight who also has a 2014 silverado, crew cab long bed LTZ Z71, 5.3L and 3.42 axle ratio. Odometer is approximately 16,500 miles. He has developed a vibration at 70+ mph. He told me that a friend of his is a very knowledgable GM guy and that his friend told him that GM has a history of vibration problems that dates back years and that there is a specific thing to look out for if you have vibrations. He couldn't remember what it was but said he'd ask him and let me know. I plan to bug him relentlessly until I hear what this other guy has to say!

Posted

Do they make Bilstiens for the 14 yet or are they the same as the 2013?

Yes and no.

The crappy stock shocks / struts on the High Country are Bilstiens.

 

There are no after markets released yet.

Posted (edited)

Yes and no.

The crappy stock shocks / struts on the High Country are Bilstiens.

 

There are no after markets released yet.

GM doesn't put Bilsteins on any vehicle they make and Bilsteins aren't crappy either. They're one of the best shocks you can get actually.

 

The current Z71's come with monotube Ranchos. Everything else comes with Tennecos. Tenneco makes Rancho and Monroe shocks. I'm not 100% sure but I think the Z71's are the only shocks that are monotube design. The rest of the trucks are twin tube design.

 

And to answer the original question, no Bilsteins aren't available for these trucks yet. Hopefully they come out soon though.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

For what it's worth. I have test driven two denali trucks to replace my all terrain (due to other issues). Neither of which had any vibrations. I will say it was odd that the tire pressure on both trucks were set to 37-41 PSI.

Both had build dates later than 4/22. Hopefully it was just a bad batch or whatever...

Edited by Trackermi
Posted

About 12 years ago I picked up from the dealer a new Silverado for my neighbor and in driving it to his house I noticed a vibration at about 60mph. I told him about the vibration and after tire swaps, balancing, etc, etc he had Chevy buy back his truck under the Florida Lemon Law. Even back then some Silverados were called 'Shakearados'. His new truck after the buyback did not vibrate.

 

Maybe the U.S.Gov will have GM spend more effort to find the cause (and fix) for this long term issue:

http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2014/05/17/g-m-becomes-government-motors-again.html

Posted

Yes and no.

The crappy stock shocks / struts on the High Country are Bilstiens.

 

There are no after markets released yet.

 

The answer is yes, they do have aftermarket shocks http://www.gorancho.com/shock_lookup.php?cat=qll&shock_type=quickLIFT%E2%84%A2+Loaded&year=2014&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado+1500&drive=4WD&x=35&y=7

Some of the best shocks available and the adjustability is the greatest thing since sliced bread

 

Also, the Bilstiens are a good shocks.

Posted

So I have been reading everyones post on vibrations. My 2014sierra has the same issue been to the dealer 4 times plus all the ridiculous recalls. They have changed my tires twice balanced once, and now I have Bridgestone tires problem still presist. Not to mention my radio goes in and out, and under acceleration the truck will on occasion choke outand jerk like hell. Has any tried to claim lemon law yet? I paid 40k for a truck that rattles worse then my 02 with 498 k on it. Just not satisfied I have no choice but drive it now with18, 000 vibrating miles on it. I wish they would give me another to try again..

So I have been reading everyones post on vibrations. My 2014sierra has the same issue been to the dealer 4 times plus all the ridiculous recalls. They have changed my tires twice balanced once, and now I have Bridgestone tires problem still presist. Not to mention my radio goes in and out, and under acceleration the truck will on occasion choke outand jerk like hell. Has any tried to claim lemon law yet? I paid 40k for a truck that rattles worse then my 02 with 498 k on it. Just not satisfied I have no choice but drive it now with18, 000 vibrating miles on it. I wish they would give me another to try again..

So I have been reading everyones post on vibrations. My 2014sierra has the same issue been to the dealer 4 times plus all the ridiculous recalls. They have changed my tires twice balanced once, and now I have Bridgestone tires problem still presist. Not to mention my radio goes in and out, and under acceleration the truck will on occasion choke outand jerk like hell. Has any tried to claim lemon law yet? I paid 40k for a truck that rattles worse then my 02 with 498 k on it. Just not satisfied I have no choice but drive it now with18, 000 vibrating miles on it. I wish they would give me another to try again..

Posted

GM doesn't put Bilsteins on any vehicle they make and Bilsteins aren't crappy either. They're one of the best shocks you can get actually.

 

The current Z71's come with monotube Ranchos. Everything else comes with Tennecos. Tenneco makes Rancho and Monroe shocks. I'm not 100% sure but I think the Z71's are the only shocks that are monotube design. The rest of the trucks are twin tube design.

 

And to answer the original question, no Bilsteins aren't available for these trucks yet. Hopefully they come out soon though.

 

I will let the GM Engineer know he is wrong. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...