Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

Posted

I had the seat TSB done last week. Too bad the tech who worked on my truck tore up the interior door panel, B pillar and door sill while taking the seat out. Now i'll be waiting weeks for those part to come in for them to have to take the seat back out to replace the B pillar trim. Sounds like the hose clamp way is the most stress free, easy and assured way to fix this problem.

  • Like 1
Posted

To save me time reading this whole thread, I had the seat bottom movement on my 14 silverado. It was fixed prior to ditching it for my current 14 sierra

 

My sierra has developed the seat bottom movement now but there is also movement on the seat back. Is the seat back a known problem area too?

Posted

Just noticed mine was crooked yesterday. Already have to go back for repairs they failed to perform correctly last time anyway.

Posted

Good evening all! I own a 2014 Sierra Denali and unfortunately encountered the same seat movement. After reading some of the discussions I did have my dealer install the clips for my seat (the service advisor knew exactly what I needed and ordered the parts in advance). The fix did not work though. I made sure the clips were installed and noted the technician inspected for possible weld breaks also. I read in a discussion how an owner installed 2 clamps on the front rail to restrict the clips and thus the seat front shifting from side to side. I picked up a couple of clamps from my hardware store and installed them on the round tube the seat is attached to placing them snug against the outside of either clip. Worked! It's been over 2 months now without any shifting or noise of any sort. I've been a happy camper since.

 

I'm sure GM will come up with a more elegant solution, but in the meantime....

 

Cheers!

Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

What page is the hose clamp fix on? Are there detailed instructions. I am having the same problem with my seat. Scheduled to go in Monday to be looked at.

 

Thanks

Dave

Posted

I have noticed a lot of folks posting issues with their front seats moving. I have the same problem. Dealer has no idea what to do about it. He said that he would report the issue what ever that means?

Posted

The pics of the hose clamp fix is on a post about 2 pages prior to this page. I don't recall a positive dealer fix for the movement. The hose clamps work. It's a five min fix.

Posted (edited)

What does the hose clamp do? Attach the seat top to the frame? What a hosed design!

Edited by pm26
Posted (edited)

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I butted them up against the inside of the two white clips on the front of the seat rail. As you can see below the clamp doesn't but up against the entire clip, just the white part protruding at the top. I kept trying to get it right against it, and didn't realize until I took the picture that the white part sticking out was what it mated up against.

 

eza4ehap.jpg

 

evyjy9eb.jpg

 

Here are the parts that I pulled the rubber off of to go on the hose clamp:

 

http://www.ultimategarage.com/frontpage-images/ABARubberClamp1.jpg

 

So far so good and this seems to be a fix until GM comes out with a better one or if they don't, it will remain permanent. Hope this helps anyone who is having this issue!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post 278 guys. This is what it looks like.

 

Works perfectly!!

Edited by Smoothbassman
Posted

Just starting to notice this clunk thing that everyone has talked about in the last week. I also like to sit with the seat raised up. The noise only happens when i go around a corner it seems. If it continues, it looks like I will be doing this garage fix as well.

Posted

Going to buy the clamps tomorrow.

 

I've got a buddy coming in town this weekend but I'm definitely doing this hose clamp fix next weekend. My seat shifting is getting worse and the dealer is f*****g useless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...