Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I didn't like the totally debadged tailgate nor how "out of balance" it looked with the SILVERADO badge on the lower left so I made a couple of changes'

 

 

Original..

 

Resized_20160902_0940461_zpspeb5i71k.jpe

 

Bowtie removed and LS emblem added...

 

Resized_20161106_152016_zpsqomd5zhj.jpeg

 

 

What it looks like now with LS emblem removed, SILVERADO emblem centered and color matched handle installed..

 

20170425_181401_zps1hpuq8go.jpeg

Edited by Marv88
Posted

Rain is finally giving us a break so I figured I'd shine it up and take a few pictures for the new website...

 

20170430_155404-1_zpswnwi1vk0.jpeg

 

20170430_155344-1_zpsxy6djyfy.jpeg

 

20170430_153733-1_zpspdelovb6.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted

 

Get a before and after printout. Look at the last few post in my build thread to see what the Hunter reports looks like. Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD Start getting a feel for what changes do what and how it feels driving. I'm very happy with mine.

Hey Grumpy..front tires were getting really feathered on the outer edge so I figured I'd have them check the alignment again while I was in for an oil change yesterday. Young tech said he fixed it and also re balanced/rotated my tires. Picked it up and it was wandering all over the road, pulling to the right and had louder tire noise than it had before. Took it back today and my wife who works there requested one of the master techs check it out. As soon as he looked at the report he said I bet this truck is wandering all over as well as pulling to the right! He said don't worry he would take care of it and man did he as this thing drives fantastic now!! Whatever was wrong must have really been putting a drag on it as before I could literally stop the truck at low speed without touching the brake (I thought it was the grade brake doing that) and the tires squealed/skipped whenever I made a u-turn. Now if I let off the gas it seems like it would coast forever and no more squeal on the u-turns. Nothing like somebody with experience to take care of stuff properly!

 

Now the drag, I was cleaning off a smudge someone left on one of the wheels when I noticed a line of small circular marks between several of the the lug nuts and figured they could have been caused by the spinning impact socket touching. I checked the others and sure enough the tech who rotated my tires had damaged ALL 4 of my wheels like that!!

Posted

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Idiots with tools. Sorry that happened to you. When I take mine in I walk the service writer around the truck and show him every flaw. Easy enough there are few. Then I tell him I am not bringing it here to get it back in worse shape than I delivered it. If the dent it, scratch it, soil it or mar it they get to pay the repair. I reminded them while it may just be a truck it is not their truck. I might also mention the cost of a wheel so he gets the idea. This will get one of two responses. Okay, I can do that OR I don't want to work on a truck whose owner is that fussy. Solutions for both are obvious.

Posted

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Idiots with tools. Sorry that happened to you. When I take mine in I walk the service writer around the truck and show him every flaw. Easy enough there are few. Then I tell him I am not bringing it here to get it back in worse shape than I delivered it. If the dent it, scratch it, soil it or mar it they get to pay the repair. I reminded them while it may just be a truck it is not their truck. I might also mention the cost of a wheel so he gets the idea. This will get one of two responses. Okay, I can do that OR I don't want to work on a truck whose owner is that fussy. Solutions for both are obvious.

I did exactly that when I took it in including mentioning the wheel/tire cost along with the fact that I already had severly feathered tires after less than 2,000 miles due to their mistakes and my wife had informed them beforehand that I was very particular about the truck. The service advisor (new guy who wasn't there the last 4 tines it went in) actually commented he could tell how well I cared for this truck after seeing the inner wheels were as clean as the outside (I always take the time to clean the brake dust when detailing). Crazy thing is I actually pointed out a similar mark on one of the wheels that was done there when they installed them and specifically let him know I would not be happy if anything else like that happened!

Posted

Almost forgot, they are bringing in a "wheel guy" to see if they can polish it out since they are PVD Chrome so we'll see what happens.

Posted (edited)

 

 

What it looks like now with LS emblem removed, SILVERADO emblem centered and color matched handle installed..

 

20170425_181401_zps1hpuq8go.jpeg

Did you find a handle already matched or did you buy a paintable one and have it painted?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Waymon
Posted

Did you find a handle already matched or did you buy a paintable one and have it painted?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the smooth aftermarket one from eBay and painted it myself using a rattle can color match kit with clear coat from Scratch Wizard. Color is dead on however the aftermarket handle mechanism is of poor quality and the handle itself is very flimsy compared to the original (see post 48 on page 3 where another members mechanism broke) so I have already sanded the texture off of the factory one and will be painting it as soon as I have a chance.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Wow Marv this is a cool build thread. I have been thinking of buying a new(er) RCSB and doing something similar. I like the color matched parts and the clean look of the tailgate now. Looking forward to see where you go next!

Posted

Wow Marv this is a cool build thread. I have been thinking of buying a new(er) RCSB and doing something similar. I like the color matched parts and the clean look of the tailgate now. Looking forward to see where you go next!

Thanks Kingstrider! I don't care much for the totally debadged look but also not a fan of how Chevy did the badges so I will also be "re"badging the doors and adding some "custom" emblems I have coming (I won't comment on that until I see how it looks!). Next I am going to finish lowering and finally get started on the audio system.

Posted

Started collecting my gear after changing my direction a bit and install progress can be seen on my Instagram @mrmarvsplace in the near future (I'll also post it here when I get done). Tentative plans are to use the factory headunit to a Match processor, Hybrid Audio Technologies Unity U69 6x9's in the doors for mibass, the new Unity mini midrange in the factory top dash location, tweeters in the a-pillars or sail panels depending on which sounds best and 4" Hybrid Audio Mirus coaxials minus the tweeters for rear fill. Sub duty will be performed by a JL Audio 10TW3 shallow sub along with a custom designed/tuned 10" passive radiator to enhance the bottom end in an all birch custom built enclosure. Mids/tweeters on passives and rear fill will be powered by an ARC Audio xdi450.4 4 channel (85x4) midbass and sub will be powered by an ARC Audio xdi600.4 4 channel (150x2 + 300x1). Sound deadening will by RaamAudio.

 

IMG_20170519_183637_zps4fzsbx8r.jpeg

 

IMG_20170519_183657_zpsitofkoz2.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

That's not stock?

Sadly no, the drive gets the joy of holding on the the steering wheel to pull themselves up...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Sadly no, the drive gets the joy of holding on the the steering wheel to pull themselves up...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is an option. My rc came with it but the wife's ltz cc didn't

Posted

It is an option. My rc came with it but the wife's ltz cc didn't

I don't know why all of them don't have it. I'm not short but I would still like to have one lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

 

Sadly no, the drive gets the joy of holding on the the steering wheel to pull themselves up...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is an option. My rc came with it but the wife's ltz cc didn't

I've had my truck for nearly a year and just yesterday while measuring for my sub enclosure I noticed there is a fold away handle above the door jamb on both sides! Edited by Marv88
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • still $4.00 85 oct.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...