Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Marv, so does that back panel just pop off?

Also, any suggestions on a good replacement speaker as I think the previous owner installed low quality speakers...I knew I should have had the dealer replace all those speakers before purchasing the truck...oh well.

Posted

I was just checking out your instagram pics...that turkey pic is funny!

I remember when you first posted that pic!

 

Did you level your truck or raise it?

 

Looks Great!

 

I'm thinking...thinking of doing what 4x4 enthusiast would consider blasphemy...lowering the Z71!

If not, I'll need to get a sports car to scratch the itch of hitting the apex of the turn...but the truck would be cool I think!

Posted (edited)
On ‎3‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 7:50 PM, RDKILL said:

Hi Marv, so does that back panel just pop off?

Also, any suggestions on a good replacement speaker as I think the previous owner installed low quality speakers...I knew I should have had the dealer replace all those speakers before purchasing the truck...oh well.

Hey Woody! You first have to pop off the rear wall panel, front kick panel and sill plate which are one piece. There is a pin in the back wall that is hidden by the back panel (push the center in and then pull it out with your finger nail) and then it pops off. I only use the rears for ambient fill so I will make an adapter for a 4" mid (once tuned I will not be able to "hear" the rear speaker location). If you are using the rears for more of a surround type sound you could just use a 3 1/2" or 4" coaxial (can't remember the last time I used a small coaxial like that so I wouldn't know what is good)

Edited by Marv88
spelling
Posted
13 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

I was just checking out your instagram pics...that turkey pic is funny!

I remember when you first posted that pic!

 

Did you level your truck or raise it?

 

Looks Great!

 

I'm thinking...thinking of doing what 4x4 enthusiast would consider blasphemy...lowering the Z71!

If not, I'll need to get a sports car to scratch the itch of hitting the apex of the turn...but the truck would be cool I think!

Thanks and that turkey was funny until I found he scratched the truck! ?

So far I just leveled the rear but eventually I will go a bit lower (I can see how some 4x4 guys might see it as blasphemy to lower a 4x4 but I would do it anyway! ?)

Posted
37 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Hi Marv, so does that back panel just pop off?

Also, any suggestions on a good replacement speaker as I think the previous owner installed low quality speakers...I knew I should have had the dealer replace all those speakers before purchasing the truck...oh well.

I would ditch the rear speakers completely. 

Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, Nasty said:

I would ditch the rear speakers completely. 

Don't be shy with your feelings about rear speakers! ? 

Edited by Marv88
Posted
41 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

Don't be shy with your feelings about rear speakers! ? 

I hate rear speakers more than this rain we are having which is causing me not to finish my truck 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

I hate rear speakers more than this rain we are having which is causing me not to finish my truck 

Having the same issue down here. 

Posted
10 hours ago, Marv88 said:

Hey Woody! You first have to pop off the rear wall panel, front kick panel and sill plate which are one piece. There is a pin in the back wall that is hidden by the back panel (push the center in and then pull it out with your finger nail) and then it pops off. I only use the rears for ambient fill so I will make an adapter for a 4" mid (once tuned I will not be able to "hear" the rear speaker location). If you are using the tears for more of a surround type sound you could just use a 3 1/2" or 4" coaxial (can't remember the last time I used a small coaxial like that so I wouldn't know what is good)

Thanks Marv for the info...Looks like a lot of popping!

I'll give it shot this weekend if the weather holds up, which I doubt.

Posted
9 hours ago, Marv88 said:

Don't be shy with your feelings about rear speakers! ? 

LOL!

I just may take up Nasty's advice being that I don't hear it now. Just need to fix that rattling it's so annoying!

Posted
8 hours ago, Nasty said:

I hate rear speakers more than this rain we are having which is causing me not to finish my truck 

I don't mind the rear speakers as long as it's not over-bearing.

As for the weather (rain) I think it just waits for me to wash my truck...and as you guys know washing a truck is not the same as washing a car.

Rain and birds love my truck!

Posted

Update:

The weather is great right now...cloudy, but no rain and not too hot.

So I decided to attack the rattling sound behind the drivers seat, which seems to be the rear speaker.

Here are the steps I took for anyone having to do the same.

  1. Adjust driver's seat all the way forward and tilt all the way forward.
  2. Remove positive battery cable (you will be working around an airbag) for safety reasons.
  3. Pop out the Airbag tab by the top seat belt anchor. You don't have to pull it off, it is anchored, but not very solid. However, easy to replace should you pull it off entirely.
  4. Using a flashlight, locate the small 7mm screw on the pillar (should be a straight shot from the airbag tap hole) and remove the screw.
  5. If you don't have a magnetized socket, you might want to place a small piece of reversed rolled up duct tape into the socket to secure the screw once it is removed...or you can hunt for it at the bottom when it falls. I used a piece of blue soft adhesive. (this is what you would use to hold up the plastic sheeting behind your door panel after repairing a window actuator, speaker etc.)
  6. Lift up the car seat anchor (it just pulls up and off) pull back the panel under the rear windshield...gently, then pull back the panel on the pillar, you may need to work the seat belt height adjustment lever a little...not very difficult you will see as the panel is moved back.
  7. Once the panel is pulled back from the pillar you will see the speaker, and at this point you can either R/R the speaker or just remove altogether.
  8. If you need more working space, then you'll need to do as Marv mentioned, and remove the paneling along the rocker as well...just be gentle.
  9. Replace everything in reverse, reconnect the battery and drive your truck to calibrate the compass if you have one.

Well I hope this helps anyone that may need to access  the rear speaker or seat belt height adjuster.

This took me around 30 minutes to complete....and while you're replacing your battery cable, check your oil if you haven't in a while.

 

Aloha,

Woody

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Update:

The weather is great right now...cloudy, but no rain and not too hot.

So I decided to attack the rattling sound behind the drivers seat, which seems to be the rear speaker.

Here are the steps I took for anyone having to do the same.

  1. Adjust driver's seat all the way forward and tilt all the way forward.
  2. Remove positive battery cable (you will be working around an airbag) for safety reasons.
  3. Pop out the Airbag tab by the top seat belt anchor. You don't have to pull it off, it is anchored, but not very solid. However, easy to replace should you pull it off entirely.
  4. Using a flashlight, locate the small 7mm screw on the pillar (should be a straight shot from the airbag tap hole) and remove the screw.
  5. If you don't have a magnetized socket, you might want to place a small piece of reversed rolled up duct tape into the socket to secure the screw once it is removed...or you can hunt for it at the bottom when it falls. I used a piece of blue soft adhesive. (this is what you would use to hold up the plastic sheeting behind your door panel after repairing a window actuator, speaker etc.)
  6. Lift up the car seat anchor (it just pulls up and off) pull back the panel under the rear windshield...gently, then pull back the panel on the pillar, you may need to work the seat belt height adjustment lever a little...not very difficult you will see as the panel is moved back.
  7. Once the panel is pulled back from the pillar you will see the speaker, and at this point you can either R/R the speaker or just remove altogether.
  8. If you need more working space, then you'll need to do as Marv mentioned, and remove the paneling along the rocker as well...just be gentle.
  9. Replace everything in reverse, reconnect the battery and drive your truck to calibrate the compass if you have one.

Well I hope this helps anyone that may need to access  the rear speaker or seat belt height adjuster.

This took me around 30 minutes to complete....and while you're replacing your battery cable, check your oil if you haven't in a while.

 

Aloha,

Woody

Thanks for the tips Woody! Can you confirm it is a 4x6 speaker back there?

Posted

Went ahead and popped mine off and the speaker is pretty much a 4x6  mini version of the front door speaker. IMG_1465.thumb.JPG.1d79f2039342c9edb91a4e614fe263fa.JPGIMG_1466.thumb.JPG.c52afab1681da634c1434d17b37818c8.JPG

Posted (edited)

Also, what I initially thought was an airbag actually appears to be just some type of sound absorbing material on the back of the panel. 

IMG_1464.thumb.JPG.bcd3cce2f44e68090cf58eb416b0060b.JPG

Edited by Marv88

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • still $4.00 85 oct.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...