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Must have upgrades for towing RVs

Txjose

By Txjose
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GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

Trailer is 7500lbs gross and the trucks tow rating is 9100lbs... I say it is just the right truck with room to spare.

 

35s are definitely NOT coming off amd neither is it coming down.... To be honest it's probably going up. Thats what drop hitches are for.

 

Rear bags and a weight distribution hitch were at the top of my list after a bit of research.

 

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Whatever works for you. 35's, what load range? I know someone had a similar setup as you. Hauling a car trailer - rolled it. Truck, trailer and car on the trailer. That's why they make 2500HD and 3500's in single rear tire formats now. It's all not just in the springs, frames are much heavier and less prone to twist. Good luck.

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GRN69CHV
GRN69CHV

Get rid of the 35's, drop it down 2" and put on a set of Load Range E tires in 32-33" height. Rear air bags and load leveler hitch. You'll be fine.

newdude
newdude

Buy the right truck next time? Don't lift them and put bigger tires? Those 3.42 gears and those 35"s sound like a power killer.

aaronarf
aaronarf

rear sway bar!

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Lifted trucks don't make good tow vehicles for many reasons...and your tow "rating" of 9100#s is not worth the sticker it's written on in the door jamb now that the truck is modified with softer suspension, higher center of gravity, larger tires, etc....it's based on a truck as it left the factory.

 

I always cringe when I see this done, the smaller semi-float axles are likely the weakest link, break an axle and have the tire part company with the truck with that camper in tow and see how well you like that combination then, that's why 2500s and 3500s have full-floating axles...most on this board are too young to remember all the lifted k5s and similar GMC/Chevy half tons with broken axles shafts from running nothing more than 33s and 35s. Nobody has ever answered my question regarding the load rating of the 1500 rear axle (not the RAWR sticker, the actual capacity of the axle itself)...

 

Just some food for thought...

 

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Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

Whatever works for you. 35's, what load range? I know someone had a similar setup as you. Hauling a car trailer - rolled it. Truck, trailer and car on the trailer. That's why they make 2500HD and 3500's in single rear tire formats now. It's all not just in the springs, frames are much heavier and less prone to twist. Good luck.

Lifted trucks don't make good tow vehicles for many reasons...and your tow "rating" of 9100#s is not worth the sticker it's written on in the door jamb now that the truck is modified with softer suspension, higher center of gravity, larger tires, etc....it's based on a truck as it left the factory.

 

I always cringe when I see this done, the smaller semi-float axles are likely the weakest link, break an axle and have the tire part company with the truck with that camper in tow and see how well you like that combination then, that's why 2500s and 3500s have full-floating axles...most on this board are too young to remember all the lifted k5s and similar GMC/Chevy half tons with broken axles shafts from running nothing more than 33s and 35s. Nobody has ever answered my question regarding the load rating of the 1500 rear axle (not the RAWR sticker, the actual capacity of the axle itself)...

 

Just some food for thought...

 

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You guys are acting like i need a 2500 to tow a golf cart. My 35s are E eated, the suspension has not been softened up at all in the rear, and we are talking about a 2016 with not even 25k miles on it.

 

 

I am well within the recommended weight rating of the truck and these new trucks have very rigid frames that are boxed from what i can see. I think that some of you older guys still think that these are C10s and dont give the 1500s a chance for towing..... I mean we have 9.5" axels for crying out loud.

 

 

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sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

You guys are acting like i need a 2500 to tow a golf cart. My 35s are E eated, the suspension has not been softened up at all in the rear, and we are talking about a 2016 with not even 25k miles on it.

 

 

I am well within the recommended weight rating of the truck and these new trucks have very rigid frames that are boxed from what i can see. I think that some of you older guys still think that these are C10s and dont give the 1500s a chance for towing..... I mean we have 9.5" axels for crying out loud.

 

 

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Keep drinking that koolaid...

 

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Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Keep drinking that koolaid...

 

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Not gumma sip the 2500 koolaod to tow a small RV. Sorry but it seems like you are trying to justify your 2500 purchase to yourself and everyone else when it is complete overkill since i am at half my tow rating with dry weight.

 

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Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the Equalizer hitch and it seems to do pretty well with the bouncing. I like the SumoSpring conecept because when the truck isn't loaded it's just like stock, I would hate to have to air up and air down though with a digital gauge you could do that from the truck.

 

How far do you typically tow? What's the furthest you've towed?

I will be towing every 4 or 5 months maybe hopefully in the sothern states.

 

Fartest i have towed with this truck is 1800ish miles from williston ND to mcallen tx but my total weight for the trailer was about 4500lbs

 

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Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Upgrades to consider:

Tekonsha P3 brake controller (make sure to mount where easily accessible)

Weight distribution hitch

Tow mirrors

Rear air bags or air shocks if on a budget

 

Perhaps consider a smaller trailer or upgrade to a 3/4 ton truck. Towing a 7500 pound trailer and adding in cargo, water in tanks and other gear put you at or over the max recommended tow weight. I towed a Scion +-350 miles with my truck and had no issues. However I borrowed a friends Duramax to tow an H2 Hummer the same distance. Did not feel my truck could safely pull it or stop in an emergency. Stay safe and let us know what you decide.

7500lbs is the fully loaded weight... Dry the trailer is 5200ish... Cant remember off the top of my head.

 

 

 

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transam69230 Enthusiast

transam69230

Posted
Posted

Finally someone that gets it! Freaking people think you need a duramax to tow a lawn tractor around these days it seems like.

 

However the lift isn't helping you for towing but it sounds like you know this. It would ride better in its stock form obviously.

Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted

If 7500 pounds is the max weight I think you should be ok. Long as your prudent and watch speed and braking distances.

HiggySTL Enthusiast

HiggySTL

Posted
Posted

You guys are acting like i need a 2500 to tow a golf cart. My 35s are E eated, the suspension has not been softened up at all in the rear, and we are talking about a 2016 with not even 25k miles on it.

 

 

I am well within the recommended weight rating of the truck and these new trucks have very rigid frames that are boxed from what i can see. I think that some of you older guys still think that these are C10s and dont give the 1500s a chance for towing..... I mean we have 9.5" axels for crying out loud.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

What these guys are trying to help you with is to ensure you are safe on the road and not endangering yourself and other out there.

 

Another BIG thing I haven't seen mentioned yet that is very important is payload capacity. What is the tongue weight of your trailer with it loaded? A lot of times that alone will put you close to your payload capacity in a 1500. If it will be you and your wife and a backseat full of gear and some gear loaded in the bed of the truck, you will be well over the payload for that truck. Yes, a weight distribution hitch will help, but it isn't the cure all for an over loaded truck. When they post payload for our trucks it is with unrealistic conditions. In fine print it is with a 150lb. driver, no passengers or gear of any type in the truck and with only a 1/4 tank of gas.

 

There is a lot more math that should go into figuring what you can tow than looking at the advertised towing capacity of the truck and the weight sticker on the travel trailer.

Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

What these guys are trying to help you with is to ensure you are safe on the road and not endangering yourself and other out there.

 

Another BIG thing I haven't seen mentioned yet that is very important is payload capacity. What is the tongue weight of your trailer with it loaded? A lot of times that alone will put you close to your payload capacity in a 1500. If it will be you and your wife and a backseat full of gear and some gear loaded in the bed of the truck, you will be well over the payload for that truck. Yes, a weight distribution hitch will help, but it isn't the cure all for an over loaded truck. When they post payload for our trucks it is with unrealistic conditions. In fine print it is with a 150lb. driver, no passengers or gear of any type in the truck and with only a 1/4 tank of gas.

 

There is a lot more math that should go into figuring what you can tow than looking at the advertised towing capacity of the truck and the weight sticker on the travel trailer.

This is what i have been cracking my head over.

 

GVWR is 7500lbs for the truck so thay means total weight right??

 

Assuming i get perfect weight distribution i get 750lbs on the tongue at full load (i dont plan on moving it with anything in the tanks anyway but this is just for arguments sake)

 

Would it be best to fill up the truck and get it weighed with me and the Mrs and my tools in the back of the truck and go from there?

 

 

 

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HiggySTL Enthusiast

HiggySTL

Posted
Posted

GVWR is 7500lbs for the truck so thay means total weight right??

 

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum permissible weight of a vehicle when fully loaded for travel.

 

 

Would it be best to fill up the truck and get it weighed with me and the Mrs and my tools in the back of the truck and go from there?

 

YES! Fill up your gas tank grab your gear and your wife and go to a scale. See what your normal operating truck weight is. What ever that number comes out to, subtract it from 7500lb. and that will give you the maximum weight remaining for your tongue weight for your trailer. I If your tongue weight is already 750lbs. you are going to be way too close for comfort IMO.

 

Another thing to consider is since you have it lifted I would be concerned with handling. The more weight off of the front axle you have, the less control you have. Again, WD hitch helps, but it doesn't cure it with a lifted truck at or above it's capacity.

Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum permissible weight of a vehicle when fully loaded for travel.

 

 

 

YES! Fill up your gas tank grab your gear and your wife and go to a scale. See what your normal operating truck weight is. What ever that number comes out to, subtract it from 7500lb. and that will give you the maximum weight remaining for your tongue weight for your trailer. I If your tongue weight is already 750lbs. you are going to be way too close for comfort IMO.

 

Another thing to consider is since you have it lifted I would be concerned with handling. The more weight off of the front axle you have, the less control you have. Again, WD hitch helps, but it doesn't cure it with a lifted truck at or above it's capacity.

I see where the concern is about the lift but that just changes the center of gravity and not necessarily how the weight is distributed. But i guess no way to be 100% sure. I have towed a 4500ish lb trailer with it and it was very stable amd it was over a 1,700mile trip. But the rv will be a less aerodynamic and a tad heavier so that is a cause for concern.

 

 

 

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  • 11 months later...
Adam Spear New Member

Adam Spear

Posted
Posted

I tow a 27' TT 7200lb with a 2014 1500 5.3 LTZ Z71, I have upgraded the Brakes to the z36 performance truck tow by powerstop, they are awesome. put in some billstein 5100 all around. Also did a upgraded mass air sensor and KN cold air intake, the one thing that caught my eye, is replacing my load leveling hitch with a propride 3p hitch, they are pricy but I saw one on a trip and the sway was non existent. much better than a standard load leveler. 

  • 2 years later...
Dave's Place Enthusiast

Dave's Place

Posted
Posted (edited)

The taller the tire, the more roll when trailer sway starts unless you go up significantly in side wall ply numbers.  This is why the exploder did a lot of roll overs even without being higher, the rims literally rolled over the tire side walls in emergency maneuvers.. The taller the truck the more body roll when when the rear end gets torqued around when a trailer sways - standard physics.  Do both and it's a recipe for big problems.  .  What you have sounds very similar to the truck in this video .  It takes less than 6 seconds for this to occur.  Side note, fifth wheel trailers are supposed a lot better for trailer sway, didn't help this guy.


 

 

Edited by Dave's Place
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