Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/6/2020 at 2:17 PM, Kyleorsini said:

@techsan15

 

are those wheels -24 offset? can you snap a pic at full lock .

 

I've got 295-55 with 20x10 -19 wheels and I've posted a thread about going a bit higher to fix rubbing issues I have with Bilstein 5100 at heighest setting. think this kit and some new ucas might be just enough after seeing your truck

Yea -24. I just put on 285/60s though and had to do some trimming. Installed the rough country trim plates and have about .5" of space now. I'll snap a pic when I get a chance.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

WOW.  I'm excited to have found this thread. 

 

I had seen your video of the install, Waterfowler41! Have a '16 Silverado Crew cab, just did the pro kit Eibach rear shocks and love them.  I was about to start the front when I found this thread.  I just ordered the Rough Country UCA's and plan to do a diff drop as well.

 

I'm gonna set the fronts at 3.2".

 

Gonna document everything on YouTube as well!

 

https://www.youtube.com/user/tominsky75/videos?view_as=subscriber

 

 

 

 

Posted

I installed this kit on my 16 Sierra about 1000 miles ago. While I had it jacked up the other day on one side to check ball joints I noticed the UCA   Hits the Spring coil before the drop stop. Anyone else see this?  I am experiencing some clunking from both sides when rebounding from a decent bumps.  

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 5/20/2019 at 6:30 PM, lonewanderer812 said:

Thank you for this writeup and video. I followed it for my install. What a difference this kit made. I also changed control arms, end links and swapped in a 2" rear block. 

 

 

IMG_20190514_194759.jpg

IMG_20190514_195001.jpg

Plan on doing the same thing with the kit as you did for my 2015 Sierra Z71, Eibach kit (lowest notch), New UCA's (probably RC or cognitos), new end links, Motofab 2" block, new wheels and tires (i like the look of your 285s on 17 0mm). Question though, did you have to do a diff drop kit for your Z71? or are the angles fine without it? I'm trying to do everything I can to preserve the stock angles while I'm going to have everything apart. 

 

Question for everyone too, would a diff drop kit be recommended with this kit? 

From doing some research it's my understanding the Z71's and LTZ's require a different kit than just a 4x4.

 

Great info on this page, really helped out! 

Edited by JsierraZ71
  • 5 months later...
Posted
Ive had my eibach kit for about a week and I really like it. I went with the new springs and I got some UCAs from kryptonite to replace the stamped steel ones. Currently sitting at 2.5in in the front and its nice and level. The angles look pretty good to me as well
 
02d9ae20171626ff7db0c49f0fe67c8a.jpgeb0ac4bab27ca4b14f61bb186b23e259.jpg77d6f5f2ac87790651ec3883a976980b.jpgf6d134c9ebdf3ac8d297f89188654444.jpg
 
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Was your truck equipped with the Rancho shocks ?? Reason I’m asking is does the bottom collar come off the front shock? I just purchased this kit haven’t installed it as eibach sent me two different rear shocks and have the same truck as yours.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

So i've had my eibach kit on my 2018 z71 for almost a year and everything is great. I also installed freedom uca's and have the lift at 2.5". Motofab 2" blocks in the rear. Its got the right look for me. I did develop a slight clunk sometimes when i turn steering wheel. Not sure what is causing it. I'm going to raise one more notch on my eibachs when i need new tires. For now im just enjoying the hell out of it.[emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 2/12/2020 at 11:38 AM, IronVilkas said:

Anyone running it at the 3 inch level(2nd notch with eibach springs)  with new UCAs? Curious how they ride when jacked up. 

I second this.

 

I have mine setup with the default 2.5 and have already replaced the UCAs with rough country's forged version. Funny thing about the UCAs is that I can tell that the angle would be *perfectly flat*...if I had another 1/2 to 3/4 of lift. My mechanic said I made a good choice replacing them because of the safe angles how the alignment came out and how well it drives.

 

Hopefully someone shares their experience at 3.2.

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I just did the Eibach kit with 2" rough country blocks in the rear. First Rough Country sent me the wrong U bolts. A quick trip to the parts store for the universal u bolts and i got the rear done. I had the same issue of one side shifting forward during install but I expected it since the truck was rear ended a year ago.

 

The fronts were easy enough to get out. Disassembly and reassembly however- might not have been worth it. I got a good lift in the front and rear. After driving it for a couple miles(without an alignment) just to make sure no rattles or noises on bumps and I dont think these are any different that stock. hoping after they break in and new tires with an alignment they will be worth the labor of assembly.

 

Has anyone felt a slight vibration on acceleration after doing the kit with Rough Country block?

 

Thanks,

Nick

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 2/4/2020 at 8:26 AM, techsan15 said:

Have had the kit on (springs and shocks set at 2.5") for about a week and the I give this kit an A+. It could be because my Ranchos were shot, but the truck is night and day and I couldn't be happier. 

 

Only negative to the kit is the truck doesn't sit quite as high set at the 2.5" as the RC 2.5" spacer kit did. I am not too bummed though because the ride quality has improved sooo much. I forgot to take measurements before to see how much it dropped it but it is only a tad. 

 

c1037ad45573afe9d952423639c1c534.jpg

9c239cfaaaeb81858d37930320ae0ed5.jpg

Is the 2.5" the highest setting?

Posted
21 hours ago, egxflash said:

Is the 2.5" the highest setting?

 

No, it’s the lowest setting with this kit.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I put my Eibach Stage 1 kit in with Kryptonite upper control arms this week. My Z71 is a 2018 and had the stamped steel arms unfortunately. Once all bolts were torqued and checked I took it on a 3 hour road trip. I hit some very rough roads that previously would of rattled your skull. Now it pleasantly absorbed the hits even in the narly construction zones. This whole ordeal makes me want to invest in a quality wall Mount spring compressor though. I have 3 Silverado’s and all will eventually be on an Eibach set up.  I made it work with my simple spring compressor but it was not fun at all. Worth the effort though. I highly recommend this kit for anyone with a small lift with larger tires. I’m running a 295/70/17 General Grabber x3s,  17x9 moto metals with -12 offset. I have tucked the fender(NorCal mod) so that I have zero rub.
 

I kept mine at the 2.5 mark with stock rear blocks. She was a little nose high but is settling to just about level or a smidge nose high.

Edited by RedHotZ71
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Bringing this thread back to life.  Thanks for all the good info. I've had the Pro Shocks waiting since the Black Friday sale last year. I'll be installing them with my factory springs set at 2.5" and a 2" block in the rear. I have the stamped steel UCAs and want to replace them. Does anyone know if the Cognito UCAs will work with the factory 20" wheels? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 100% agree, there are a lot of variables. I definitely do not drive I’ve like a grandpa but also don’t drive like I stole it. Truck is currently in the shop so I’ll have to get weight later. The price for driving it doesn’t bother me. My precious was a 6.2l so the cost between the two is a wash. 
    • if you want a short turning radius get a short bed Colorado!
    • that is pretty awesome MPG there!  I think so far one observation is these trucks do way better on MPG under 65mph vs 70+ and they really suffer at 75+   I noticed on the stretches into NE on 76 and 80 which is posted 75MPH and I was doing 82 I was getting more like 13.    
    • No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...