Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 minutes ago, AgFan08 said:

I posted the work order along with a link to the video as a review on the dealership's website. Maybe that will get some sort of response, because as you stated and the video makes clear, that is not a normal noise level. I've never had a GM before but I'm starting to learn this is par for the course when it comes to warranty issues and getting them taken care of. Pretty much have to be persistent and in it for the long haul. Good luck with your case as well.

Honestly, I have had great luck when dealing with GM on warranty issues, but like you stated, it takes time. As hard as it is not to do, try not to make enemies with the dealership (whichever one it ends being) doing the repairs. That is why you need to stress to GM how they have treated you, they will reach to them and make sure they are nicer going forward.

Posted
37 minutes ago, AgFan08 said:

I posted the work order along with a link to the video as a review on the dealership's website. Maybe that will get some sort of response, because as you stated and the video makes clear, that is not a normal noise level. I've never had a GM before but I'm starting to learn this is par for the course when it comes to warranty issues and getting them taken care of. Pretty much have to be persistent and in it for the long haul. Good luck with your case as well.

Thanks.  Mine has been out of warranty for quite some time, and out of extended warranty as well.  I've been going to this dealer for close to 10 years.  If I ever get my truck back I'll post a video of my compressors going so there's a comparison of overkill aftermarket vs factor installed not working right.  :)

Posted (edited)

I'll upload another video this evening, but had a pretty good breakthrough this morning. My wife pulled over after the noise started and climbed in the back seat. When she set on the third row far right seat, the noise would stop, and then when she would get off the seat it would start again.  Passed the video over to the Service Manager at the local dealership (the second one where we bought the car) and hopefully it will help them narrow down what to investigate next time we can bring the vehicle in. Another twist in the saga but hopefully narrowing down the issue.

 

And here is the video, I don't know what to make of this other than the issue is possibly being narrowed down.

 

Edited by AgFan08
Video Link
  • Sad 1
Posted
On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 9:54 PM, JimCost2014 said:

Open a claim with GM, let them know how unhappy you are, and let them know how you are being treated by the service managers (personally, if my wife came home in tears, I would have driven there and punched the service manager in the head). Don't threaten them with a demand to buy back the rig, or Lemon laws, just be firm and demand that you as a customer of GM are not happy and that you feel like you are being treated like crap! And, want your really expensive vehicle fixed so it functions normally.

I did this and today was contacted by GM. The customer service rep was extremely helpful and listened to the entire story. I've also sent the initial work order of the dealership acknowledging the issue and the second which the service manager essentially used to blame the issue on us along with multiple videos to support that the vehicle is not "operating normally" as stated in the second work order. For the first time in the process I actually feel confident the issue can get resolved and like I have an advocate working on my side. Time will tell, but slow and steady going forward.

Posted
20 minutes ago, AgFan08 said:

I did this and today was contacted by GM. The customer service rep was extremely helpful and listened to the entire story. I've also sent the initial work order of the dealership acknowledging the issue and the second which the service manager essentially used to blame the issue on us along with multiple videos to support that the vehicle is not "operating normally" as stated in the second work order. For the first time in the process I actually feel confident the issue can get resolved and like I have an advocate working on my side. Time will tell, but slow and steady going forward.

Patience and persistence. Glad it is going better, they will take care of you. Most do not do these steps and just settle for a less than desirable vehicle.

Posted

A good lesson learned here is that if you have a case open with GM customer service, it is tied to a specific dealership and not the vehicle (it may be the vehicle as well but it is definitely tied to a dealership). I discussed the situation with them and told them I had moved the vehicle so they changed the dealership on the case which allowed me to give another round of formal feedback on the dealership that I originally attempted to have the repair done at. Make sure that you keep GM customer support updated on your situation if you have an open case so they can keep the status updated. Hopefully others find that helpful.

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Posted

I have the same noise coming from the driver side rear end. I have a 2019 Chevy Suburban and the noise started about a month ago. I use the vehicle for car/limo service so it runs idle in front of high end resort lobby a lot and it is not a good look for my service when people are getting ready to walk in the car and they hear this loud compressor sound. Inside the vehicle though, it is not as loud as in your video. As my high season started just recently, haven't had a chance to take it to dealership yet.  But, whoever says this is normal operation, is clueless. I didn't have the noise during the first 30000 miles and now I do.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Good luck. They don’t care. All they will do is provide lip service for a while until they tell you nothing is wrong but you. I can’t even ride in mine without a pressure noise hurting my head. Complained about it within a hundred miles of owning a new 2019 Yukon Denali Ultimate 4x4 and after months of back and forth they said it is performing as designed. So designed to be shitty and will be my last GM. 

Edited by EXSlider400
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

After about  1 year my 2018 compressor  started constantly  running. Took it the dealer  they immediately diagnoses a leaking  rear air bag or strut something like that they ordered  the part was fixed  1 week later. Now it hardly  ever runs  unless you load the back up excessively which i believe  is suppose  to be how it works. The compressor should not be running  excessively especially when you  dont have a load

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Brand new Tahoe, same issue.  On a trip south, compressor started running almost constantly... It will stop, but in few seconds to a minute or two, kicks in again.  Brutally cold, so haven't looked at anything.  Was hoping to find a simple == dealerless solution... Sad they so often say "oh, they ALL do that..."

 

How do you open a claim with GM please????

Posted

It’s not normal to run excessively. My 18 Tahoe only runs occasionally if the back is loaded with people. You must have a leak somewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My '19 Tahoe compressor started running almost constantly, only 4000 miles.  I determined myself the left rear shock was leaking.  Took it to the closest dealer and they ordered and installed the shock.  Problem solved... for now...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...