Jump to content

Another Long Tube question...

Husker_1911

By Husker_1911
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Husker_1911 Enthusiast

Husker_1911

Posted
Posted

Okay folks...  what is the consensus numbers on what a good set of 1 3/4” primary long tubes (Kooks, ARH, etc) will get you on an basically (maybe a CAI and a cat back) stock L83?  Info/numbers on catted vs non-catted would be cool too.  So would before and after tuning...  even though it’s pretty much a given that you need a tune if you do long tubes.  Thanks y’all!

mitchely03 Enthusiast

mitchely03

Posted
Posted

I dont have specific numbers to give you, but the consensus with long tubes, catted or not, and a good tune, (obivously intake, and exhaust) would net you about 25-30hp and 25-30 tq.

  • Like 1
00pooterSS Enthusiast

00pooterSS

Posted
Posted

All I can tell you is mine hauls a lot more ass and gets a lot more MPG than when the exhaust was stock.

 

I have a test spot that's about 1000 ft from a stop sign to a merge sign . When I cut out the flapper and swapped the stock muffler for a magnaflow I picked up a couple of mph and MPG, truck was already tuned but it was not retuned for cutting out the flap and new muffler.

 

 When I went headers and the stock 6.2 catback with the flap cutout and tuned, I picked up another 3 MPH over the previous setup. Which is a total of around 5 MPH from stock exhaust. 

 

I do get near 5 more MPG total than when my truck was untuned and had the K&N on it, it was bone stock except for the K&N. On my work commute stock with the K&N I got 14-15 MPG on gas and 11 on E85. Got it tuned and the v4 (AFM) turned off. Got the same mileage but made more power/went faster.

 

With all my exhaust changes I've seen as high as 19 MPG on gas and 16 on E85, going the same roads that I used to get 14.5 and 11. 

 

I had a decent highway drive the other day and the 25 mile MPG chart showed I was getting a little better mileage on E85 than the best I previously had with the stock manifolds and the flap cut out with the magnaflow and tuned. I gained considerable mileage and power just cutting out the flap and swapping the stock muffler for a magnaflow, I gained a lot more power after the headers and 6.2 catback, but again since then I've stomped on it all over the place so I'm not sure if I'm getting better MPG, but it's not worse. (with the headers and 6.2)

00pooterSS Enthusiast

00pooterSS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also, you probably wont get a lot of power numbers here since the driveshafts pop on the dyno.

 

But I've heard approx 25 from headers, and approx 25 from doing a cutout ( I assume a really good catback will be near the cutout numbers). Talked with a tuner from Dubai about it and he said that you may see up to 50 hp. Sounds crazy, but if you read through this thread about how much back pressure that damn flapper creates it's not too hard to see.

 

 

Edited by 00pooterSS
VdellaV Enthusiast

VdellaV

Posted
Posted

I have Speed Engineering Long Tubes and love them

 

Not expensive and fit perfectly, im planning on making a full review video:

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Husker_1911 Enthusiast

Husker_1911

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 5:49 PM, 00pooterSS said:

Also, you probably wont get a lot of power numbers here since the driveshafts pop on the dyno.

 

But I've heard approx 25 from headers, and approx 25 from doing a cutout ( I assume a really good catback will be near the cutout numbers). Talked with a tuner from Dubai about it and he said that you may see up to 50 hp. Sounds crazy, but if you read through this thread about how much back pressure that damn flapper creates it's not too hard to see.

 

 

The Flapper...  where is it?  I'm wondering if my Flowmaster Outlaw kit already got rid of it and if I would need DiabLew to do an update if it is still there but goes away.  Pics would be very much appreciated.

00pooterSS Enthusiast

00pooterSS

Posted
Posted

The flapper is in the stock exhaust and in the borla GM catback. I don't think it is in any other catbacks but I really only know about the OEM setup. I don't know about all the aftermarket setups

Stonehenge Enthusiast

Stonehenge

Posted
Posted (edited)

L83 5.3 2017 z71.  I installed Corsa cat back, then afe cai, then tune with blackbear performance.  That was a great set up.  I literally just installed kooks lt 1-3/4 about three days ago.  Haven’t retuned it yet but let me tell u, it is the most noticeable butt dyno upgrade yet.  Easily as much as cai, cat back and tune gave me combined.  But it is friggin loud.

 

This set up does stick down below the frame about 3 inches so be aware of that.  That’s a concern of mine if I go offroad. 

 

Right now I am enjoying the upgrade and can’t wait for the retune.  But can forsee adding a resognator in the near future to quiet it down. 

Edited by Stonehenge
  • 3 years later...
G SQUARED New Member

G SQUARED

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old topic but read this comment and now I have to ask if you know a set up that doesn't sit below the frame? Clearance is a Concern for me im on a 3.5" drop and live in Indiana (roads are garbage) 

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, G SQUARED said:

Sorry to bring up an old topic but read this comment and now I have to ask if you know a set up that doesn't sit below the frame? Clearance is a Concern for me im on a 3.5" drop and live in Indiana (roads are garbage) 

 

No, only GM does that. It does stick below the cross member but not 3"; its more like 1 1/2" - 2" max. Still making It higher or same height as the air dam/skid plate/outside frame/body. If you're driving somewhere that you can actually wreck that pipe, you're also driving somewhere you can wreck the frame and body of the truck.

pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

i think GM discontinued the flapper in 2018??

 

I just bolted mine in the open position.. there is a GM tsb update on doing this trick, and v4 can be elliminated by driving in 5th gear  ... i was going to go longtubes but other issues arose for me, i didnt like the idea of raising the powerband by swapping the stock headers for the longtubes. i dont drive it like a racecar, its more a commuter so i prefer the lower torque curve of the stock headers

 

i will be cutting out the 3rd cat since its useless restriction

Edited by pokismoki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...