Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone getting a squeak/fart sound from left side of driver's seat when sitting? Same sound as when you move around in an old leather recliner.

 

Took it to dealer and they acknowledged the sound but said they don't have a fix for it yet. As I tried to determine a cause & fix, I discovered it's the leather rubbing against the plastic trim. On the passenger seat, when you press down the leather bows out like normal. On the driver's, some of the leather actually slides down behind the plastic trim and make a loud, annoying noise as it rubs. I shoved a wash cloth way down between the leather & plastic trim and the noise was gone. Unfortunately, this is by no means a permanent fix and having a rag stick out your seat looks like crap.

 

Anyone also have this issue?

  • Like 1
Posted
Anyone getting a squeak/fart sound from left side of driver's seat when sitting? Same sound as when you move around in an old leather recliner.

Took it to dealer and they acknowledged the sound but said they don't have a fix for it yet. As I tried to determine a cause & fix, I discovered it's the leather rubbing against the plastic trim. On the passenger seat, when you press down the leather bows out like normal. On the driver's, some of the leather actually slides down behind the plastic trim and make a loud, annoying noise as it rubs. I shoved a wash cloth way down between the leather & plastic trim and the noise was gone. Unfortunately, this is by no means a permanent fix and having a rag stick out your seat looks like crap.

Anyone also have this issue?

 

I do. Same exact spot as you. Dealership replaced some clips and it fixed it for all of two days and it came back. It's annoying....

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

These are pictures from the bottom of my drivers seat. After my local dealer tech sat on the floor behind me with the trim panels off of the seat, he has come up with these bushings allowing the seat to move from left to right. We will install a new base to the seat in a few days and see if the noise goes away.

 

 

Any more info on how the seat replacement helped? I am guessing it made a difference as it did for me when my seat was replaced the first time. it lasted for about a week or two and then the click noise came back first when getting in and then the seat moved. I have isolated the clicking/clunking noise when getting in, but need to figure out this seat movement issue. I guess I will take a look over the weekend and see if I can get the side seat covers off to expose this bushing/bracket you found. I would like to try and shim it just to see if this is definetly the culprit and then I can work on a soltuion from there.

 

The reason I asked this poster where the bushing was located because my movement all seems to be in the back of the bottom part of the seat. If these bushings are at the back then I would tend to believe the theory a little more. Hoping to get some info from the poster of these pics....

Posted

Looking at those pictures one more time, it appears those bushings are on the bottom of the seat bracket and not the sides, which was my original thought.

 

you can see the yellow seat foam and the from adjust/lifter motor in the picture I believe. I will be taking a look at some point (maybe tonight if I get a chance).

Posted

I do. Same exact spot as you. Dealership replaced some clips and it fixed it for all of two days and it came back. It's annoying...

jmpen found "if you reach down to the front of your seat you will feel where the seat cover stretches over the frame. On mine the bead that holds the cover on wasn't fully seated. I just pressed this up and seat is quiet now."

 

I'm going to give it a try tonight.

Posted

My seat is also notchy feeling when turning. I also have strange noises from driver rear. Like a loud squeak and sometimes a knock. Only does it when cool and wet.

 

I can push down on the driver rear corner of the bed and duplicate, but when driving it doesn't require bumps.. Just a slow roll will make the sound..

 

Confusing..

 

Still love my truck!

 

My seat is also notchy feeling when turning. I also have strange noises from driver rear. Like a loud squeak and sometimes a knock. Only does it when cool and wet.

 

I can push down on the driver rear corner of the bed and duplicate, but when driving it doesn't require bumps.. Just a slow roll will make the sound..

 

Confusing..

 

Still love my truck!

Posted

I'm just over 3,100 miles and I'm beginning to feel the driver's seat move ever so slightly right or left when making a turn. First noticed it about two weeks ago and it is getting just a bit worse every day.

Posted

So...I had some free time this afternoon and dove a little deeper into the white clamps that hold the seat bottom to the seat frame as depicted in Clarks images a few posts ago. I was wrenching around on the bottom of the seat to try and make it replicate the noise/thunk and I was able to get pretty close to the actual experience.

 

Low and behold, if I kept one hand on that white clamp at the front of the seat just on the underside I felt it move/vibrate in unison with the noise. I am still a little weary because for me it always sounded like the noise/movement was coming from the back of the bottom seat cushion. However, I have a temporary fix to try and isolate this movement to see if that stands the test of time.

 

I put hose clamps with rubber on the inside diameter of them on either side of the white seat clamps on the same tube the clamps wrap around (a total of 4 clamps with one on either side of each white seat mount). My purpose is to hold the white camp stationary and it seems to be working well so far. I took it for a good run around some of the roads that always cause the seat to move and nothing happened! However...time will tell as I have thought I nixed this one before..

 

It is kind of weird because it looks as if there is grease between the white seat mounts and the bar they are mounting/clamping to. Why would you want to grease something you are trying to keep stationary? I had my seat frame replaced once and it worked for a week or two...but came back so it seems these camps wear out after a little use and getting in and out of the truck. I have to say that replacing these white clamps that mount the seat bottom to the frame would be pretty easy for GM to do and cheap to assuming they can find something with a little more clamping force to stop the seat from moving.

 

I will report back if it comes back any time soon

  • Like 2
Posted

I was messing around with my moving seat as well and noticed all my seat cushion movement is in those white clamps as well. Was going to try the hose clamp idea too; glad to see someone else has done it with some luck.

  • Like 1
Posted

Excellent post!! Like yourself I feel the movement in the lower back area that sways when turning. Yea it does seem strange there's grease on something that's supposed to stay put. I seriously hope your solution works for everyone's sake and we all appreciate your time in tinkering around and for posting what you did.

 

Thank you and Merry Christmas,.

 

Al

  • Like 1
Posted

Had mine in for its first service. Dealer could not reproduce the seat issue and therefor gave it back.

Posted

Toddfather, the only way my dealer could reproduce the problem is with me driving and the Tech riding on the floor behind my seat. He had taken the trim off of the seat so he could see the movement. Good luck!! Mine has been quiet since the new frame assembly, but I am not holding on to hopes that this is long term.

  • Like 1
Posted

jdvaughn: which seat do you have? The one that vibrates with the alert system? Center console?

Posted

So...I had some free time this afternoon and dove a little deeper into the white clamps that hold the seat bottom to the seat frame as depicted in Clarks images a few posts ago. I was wrenching around on the bottom of the seat to try and make it replicate the noise/thunk and I was able to get pretty close to the actual experience.

 

Low and behold, if I kept one hand on that white clamp at the front of the seat just on the underside I felt it move/vibrate in unison with the noise. I am still a little weary because for me it always sounded like the noise/movement was coming from the back of the bottom seat cushion. However, I have a temporary fix to try and isolate this movement to see if that stands the test of time.

 

I put hose clamps with rubber on the inside diameter of them on either side of the white seat clamps on the same tube the clamps wrap around (a total of 4 clamps with one on either side of each white seat mount). My purpose is to hold the white camp stationary and it seems to be working well so far. I took it for a good run around some of the roads that always cause the seat to move and nothing happened! However...time will tell as I have thought I nixed this one before..

 

It is kind of weird because it looks as if there is grease between the white seat mounts and the bar they are mounting/clamping to. Why would you want to grease something you are trying to keep stationary? I had my seat frame replaced once and it worked for a week or two...but came back so it seems these camps wear out after a little use and getting in and out of the truck. I have to say that replacing these white clamps that mount the seat bottom to the frame would be pretty easy for GM to do and cheap to assuming they can find something with a little more clamping force to stop the seat from moving.

 

I will report back if it comes back any time soon

And here I was going to answer your question about where that part was since I looked under my seat last night. You figured it out yourself. Maybe the grease is there to prevent any squeaks as the part moves around the shaft and not for side to side movement?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...