Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Is the Torque Management just on/off or do you get a slider? Sadly EFI Live they can't adjust it just turn it on or off. I'm curious if they are just doing the same thing EFI Live does by not letting the timing retard as much on shift. If that is the case, its pretty bad on the Tranny. I've been debating at some point possibly getting HP Tuners since you can actually adjust Tq Management.

The torque management is unfortunately just on or off. I did contemplate leaving it on or off for awhile as I didn't want to damage anything after reading up on what TM was and did leave it on for awhile. After reading the forums and it seeming that most were turning it off and were not worried about it causing issue, saying these trannies were pretty tough I turned mine off too. I figured I'm not hammering the throttle and going WOT all the time anyway so I'm probably not gonna bust anything with it off. But I'd love to hear your opinion, I'm not expert on this stuff.

Posted

Disabling all Tq management on the 6L80 is really bad and won't hold up long term. There are two types of Tq management one for the engine and one for the transmission. Generally Tq Management on the transmission is for "smoother" shifts and worse for it but apparently the 6L80 needs a little bit to maintain clutch life.

Posted

Disabling all Tq management on the 6L80 is really bad and won't hold up long term. There are two types of Tq management one for the engine and one for the transmission. Generally Tq Management on the transmission is for "smoother" shifts and worse for it but apparently the 6L80 needs a little bit to maintain clutch life.

Well great there goes my clutch. I don't usually drive that aggressively so Hopfully mine is fine. And looking back at my notes I've only put about 9k miles on the truck with it off so that eases my mind. Thanks for that info. I did some reading last night and like you said I did read that on other websites too. TM gets turned back on I guess. Also throttle boost goes back to 0. Another member mentioned this has been the cause of some 1-2 shift hesitation which I have noticed myself a few times.

Posted

What does the throttle boost do? Is that what makes the throttle seem laggy?

Maybe someone else can explain better but I think the throttle boost setting in the Intune makes is so less petal travel is needed to get the engine going if that makes sense. To me the stock petal movement/throttle is laggy, this seems to make it quicker/more responsive. I think the canned tunes already have this setting tweaked and changing it to more than 0 increases it above and beyond this.

Posted

Thanks. Good to know. I definitely have the horrible 1-2 shift hesitation. I'll let Justin know for my next tune.

Posted

I know on my last truck (RAM) the throttle boost just made the pedal seem like it reacted faster. If it took 20% pedal travel to get going before it would reduce it to 10% pedal travel. Its funny how that change can make our brains think our trucks just got faster because of it.

Posted

I just had Black Bear tune done and wow my truck at full throttle shifts into 4th at 100 mph. Transmission shifts so much better. Throttle response is fantastic. Best tune I have ever had done.

  • Like 6
Posted

Disabling all Tq management on the 6L80 is really bad and won't hold up long term. There are two types of Tq management one for the engine and one for the transmission. Generally Tq Management on the transmission is for "smoother" shifts and worse for it but apparently the 6L80 needs a little bit to maintain clutch life.

Please explain how a little bit of slip is better for clutches than none? Any time a clutch slips it wears and creates heat. Smooth shifts are slipping clutches.
Posted (edited)

Torque management reduces power during shifts to protect the trans. If you remove it you get full power shifts and the clutches won't last very long. You could also break some hard parts.

 

Jay

Edited by Jay P
Posted

Torque management reduces power during shifts to protect the trans. If you remove it you get full power shifts and the clutches won't last very long. You could also break some hard parts.

 

Jay

 

This is Engine Torque Management not Transmission Torque Management. I don't know enough about what these tuners are doing with "on/off" to tell you what Tq Management its disabling. Either way both should be left on and best performance results with longevity in mind would be the quickest shift possible while reducing how much the spark timing reduction is happening on shift.

 

The more you reduce the spark reduction (Increasing the power while shifting) and don't increase the shift timing the quicker you are going to wear out your clutches in your 6L80 (assuming you can increase the shift timing without wearing the clutches out faster from pushing them faster than they can shift).

 

 

Some of these things I've mentioned could be completely wrong and are based on reading around and just my general knowledge on how I believe transmissions work and how Tq management works.

 

 

 

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?22771-new-beta-with-E38-E67-T43-torque-management-additions

Posted

To answer my own question, TM is required in the transmission as part of the design of the transmission (clutch to clutch) not so much to extend the life of the clutches but for the hard parts usually the output shaft or the drum. It looks like the 6l80 can handle the input torque of a stock 5.3 even a slightly beefed one. (CAI, Exhaust, tune) may run into issues with a turbo or SC if you drive it hard.

 

Maximum engine input torque for the 6L80 is 440 ft. lbs. and the maximum output torque is 664 ft. lbs. The case is die cast aluminum.

 

So, i suppose some TM is required in the transmission but, can be removed from the engine.

Posted

With TM dialed back, I found that during the summer my average transmission temps dropped went from 200-205F to 190F. Not massive but whatever wear there might be from reducing TM you'll gain back in other ways like a cooler (happier) trans.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...