Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Is it possible to get the ECM and TCM in my 2016 Silverado 5.3 reflashed to stock by anyone other than a dealer?  I changed the parameters using a Diablo Predator2 that, unfortunately, I lost when our home burned in the Camp Fire last November.  I need to return it to stock before I take it in for warranty work.  Thanks!

Posted

This is my exhaust:

 

-Speed Engineering LongTubes

-Dual X Pipes

-Dual Magnaflows

-3" Dual Exhaust

 

Sound:

 

 

Posted

I have a custom DiabLew Tune on my Diablo i2

 

I have had it for almost 3 years now, cero issues on my daily.

 

 

Posted

I have been on a Edge canned tune for a year now. CTS2 Evolution. I did the AFM delete and their trans tune. I liked how it drove. I am currently waiting on a custom tune from 5 Star tuning. This is will be on a SCT BDX tuner.

 

I told them to be aggressive with the tune as I truly want to notice a difference between a "real tune" and a "canned tune".

 

 

I will report back after some driving.

 

Posted

Just got my tunes back from Price over at 5 Star Tuning.

 

Wow.

 

I THOUGHT i was driving a "tuned" truck with the Edge CTS2...boy was I wrong.

 

I immediately felt a difference with throttle response. (this maaay be partial to me having the Edge Throttle booster, which sends different signals to the TPS to give a move throttle cable feeling) but I had this on before the tune and the throttle response was better than stock for sure, but now its amazing.

 

The 1-4 shifts upon stop and get up is phenomenal every gear stays in the 2000-2200 RPM range where torque is had. Then 5-6 drops down low as it should once I get up to speed.

 

WOT trans shifts hard and quick at 6K RPM! So rev limit got raised which is nice.

 

Freeway driving is a pleasure now as I dont have to drop down to 3rd to go anywhere, just give it some gas and it moves, even in 6th.

 

Dead stop to about 70 is quick for sure for only being intake tune and exhaust. Ill get a video and seconds hopefully soon.

 

Overall, couldn't be happier and money well spent, this truck is such a pleasure to drive now I can see myself owning it for 10 years +

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, mitchely03 said:

Just got my tunes back from Price over at 5 Star Tuning.

 

Wow.

 

I THOUGHT i was driving a "tuned" truck with the Edge CTS2...boy was I wrong.

 

I immediately felt a difference with throttle response. (this maaay be partial to me having the Edge Throttle booster, which sends different signals to the TPS to give a move throttle cable feeling) but I had this on before the tune and the throttle response was better than stock for sure, but now its amazing.

 

The 1-4 shifts upon stop and get up is phenomenal every gear stays in the 2000-2200 RPM range where torque is had. Then 5-6 drops down low as it should once I get up to speed.

 

WOT trans shifts hard and quick at 6K RPM! So rev limit got raised which is nice.

 

Freeway driving is a pleasure now as I dont have to drop down to 3rd to go anywhere, just give it some gas and it moves, even in 6th.

 

Dead stop to about 70 is quick for sure for only being intake tune and exhaust. Ill get a video and seconds hopefully soon.

 

Overall, couldn't be happier and money well spent, this truck is such a pleasure to drive now I can see myself owning it for 10 years +

 

 

Have you done the paint stick mod on your throttle pedal ?

Posted
7 minutes ago, VdellaV said:

Have you done the paint stick mod on your throttle pedal ?

I haven't. I do know what you are talking about. I just haven't done it. I am not sure how much better my throttle response can be as of now as its pretty nice!

Posted (edited)

Are there any loose guidelines to adjust shift pressure?

 

mu truck shifts pretty sloppy and pretty harsh when I am getting on it, mostly 3-4, 4-5 shifts. 

 

Overall just shifts really sloppy and confused. 

 

All i I did was the 87 performance tune, plus 10 or 12 percent throttle response, turned afm off, and corrected tire size. 

 

Also so I noticed going up steep hills in the mountains a few weeks ago it really had a clunky shift going down to first up a steep hill.

 

doesnt have the ass to get up hills on the nterstate without going down to fourth. 

 

I hate to dog the truck. It’s beautiful and haven’t had any issues outbid it in 6 months. Just wish it would shift more smoothly

Edited by Bammer25
Posted
56 minutes ago, mitchely03 said:

I haven't. I do know what you are talking about. I just haven't done it. I am not sure how much better my throttle response can be as of now as its pretty nice!

Do it, it will be even better

Posted

If anyone is interested.

 

I have a brand new SCT BDX #40490 to sell. I didn't end up using it. I have it listed on ebay right now. 

 

I would list on here but I dont have 50 post yet.

Posted
On 1/10/2019 at 11:51 AM, VdellaV said:

Have you done the paint stick mod on your throttle pedal ?

I haven't heard of this. but now that I'm out from under a rock, Ill need to check this out!

however, Ill need to wait for my trigger finger surgery on both hands to heal...boy this is not easy to type!!

 

Nice vid on your exhaust!

Posted
On 12/1/2019 at 8:33 AM, RDKILL said:

I haven't heard of this. but now that I'm out from under a rock, Ill need to check this out!

however, Ill need to wait for my trigger finger surgery on both hands to heal...boy this is not easy to type!!

 

Nice vid on your exhaust!

 

Your gas pedal assembly has some play in it, so if you touch the Gas pedal, the whole assembly moves a bit instead of the pedal pivoting.

 

If you put a wood stick between the pedal assembly and the firewall, that stops the play and the throttle response is much sharper

 

Personally, I actually pulled a bit on the pedal so a bit larger stick could fit and the assembly had no play at all.

 

If you need anything about that, let me know lol 

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, VdellaV said:

 

Your gas pedal assembly has some play in it, so if you touch the Gas pedal, the whole assembly moves a bit instead of the pedal pivoting.

 

If you put a wood stick between the pedal assembly and the firewall, that stops the play and the throttle response is much sharper

 

Personally, I actually pulled a bit on the pedal so a bit larger stick could fit and the assembly had no play at all.

 

If you need anything about that, let me know lol 

I peeked under my dash this morning just to see if I could do anything...I was able to loosen the 10mm nuts, but could not move the bracket. It was difficult due to stitches in my right palm and left thumb, so maybe it's just because I couldn't get a good grip on it.

I even tried to slip a piece of painter's stick, but could not get it to go behind the bracket...hence I tried to remove the bracket.

 

So...are there other nuts/bolts that need to be removed to get in the back of the bracket?

Seems like everyone is just slipping washers and pieces of wood behind the bracket, but I don't see how that can be done. I even lost a piece of wood behind the bracket, it fell down behind and I have no idea where it went...LOL!

Stitches come out next week Tues, so I plan on trying again, just not sure about removing the bracket.

 

I was going to pm you, but hopefully others that may be lurking will benefit from your answer.

 

On another note, did your wipers pick up the wax from your windshield?

I watched that vid as well, heck I drink apple cider vinegar with water in the morning as a wake up drink, makes a good tea! LOL!!

I used to do that back in the 90's on my cars, but eventually the wipers start to pick up the wax and starts skipping along the windshield. Haven't tried the Rain-X yet though.

Posted
14 hours ago, RDKILL said:

I peeked under my dash this morning just to see if I could do anything...I was able to loosen the 10mm nuts, but could not move the bracket. It was difficult due to stitches in my right palm and left thumb, so maybe it's just because I couldn't get a good grip on it.

I even tried to slip a piece of painter's stick, but could not get it to go behind the bracket...hence I tried to remove the bracket.

 

So...are there other nuts/bolts that need to be removed to get in the back of the bracket?

Seems like everyone is just slipping washers and pieces of wood behind the bracket, but I don't see how that can be done. I even lost a piece of wood behind the bracket, it fell down behind and I have no idea where it went...LOL!

Stitches come out next week Tues, so I plan on trying again, just not sure about removing the bracket.

 

I was going to pm you, but hopefully others that may be lurking will benefit from your answer.

 

On another note, did your wipers pick up the wax from your windshield?

I watched that vid as well, heck I drink apple cider vinegar with water in the morning as a wake up drink, makes a good tea! LOL!!

I used to do that back in the 90's on my cars, but eventually the wipers start to pick up the wax and starts skipping along the windshield. Haven't tried the Rain-X yet though.

I have found wax to be great, because it lasts more than RainX

 

RainX is great but fades in a few days. Vinegar removes water spots and contamination amazingly well

 

The wiper dont pick up wax, if you buff it off good once youre finished waxing it

 

I also clean the inside of the windshield an RainX it so its easier to clea

 

You dont need to loosen the pedal assembly, here is a video on it(Not mine, but is the same thing i did). The first video shows the pedal flex and in the second you can see where to put a piece of wood to bead it

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...