2014+ K2XX - Center Console Swap / Retrofit - Plug and Play Harness!

[Nateb04]

Maybe a dumb question or might have already been stated, but is it a necessity to completely remove the passenger seat to install the center console?

[pgamboa]

Thank you Phil. Got everything installed today and everything works flawlessly! 
One thing I didn’t see mentioned when installing the drivers side side panel was to take the black surround part off the support post so the side panel fits correctly. I’m sure its common sense but good for people to know ahead of time. 
 

Thanks for sharing and thank you for your feedback! In my video, I forgot to point out that trim piece. I need to make a follow up video with some additional tips/suggestions like this. Thanks again for your business and support!


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[pgamboa]

Maybe a dumb question or might have already been stated, but is it a necessity to completely remove the passenger seat to install the center console?

They are no dumb questions .

The jump seat harness does live under the passenger on a floor plate. At the very least, you’ll like need to unbolt the seat, tilt it back to get access to that. Removing the seat is really simple. Since you’ll need a Torx T-50 for the large seat bolt, get a set of torx bits that include a T-27 to remove the seat belt.

If you are able to remove the jump seat harness without removing the seat, go for it.


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[nate_0022]

17 minutes ago, Nateb04 said:

Maybe a dumb question or might have already been stated, but is it a necessity to completely remove the passenger seat to install the center console?

It makes things so much easier to remove the seats. Especially installing the drivers side side piece. And it’s also a good reason to vacuum under the seats. 

[nate_0022]

18 minutes ago, Nateb04 said:

Maybe a dumb question or might have already been stated, but is it a necessity to completely remove the passenger seat to install the center console?

It makes things so much easier to remove the seats. Especially installing the drivers side side piece. And it’s also a good reason to vacuum under the seats. 

[Jagerschnapps1]

1 hour ago, Nateb04 said:

Maybe a dumb question or might have already been stated, but is it a necessity to completely remove the passenger seat to install the center console?

I was able to remove the two rear bolts and tilt the seat forward to do all of the work including vacuuming under the seats after the jump seat was removed. Phil’s harness and instructions made it a breeze. 

[Nateb04]

Great thanks for the pointers guys, this site is awesome for all the feed back and pointers.

[Enough]

I did mine without removing any bolts from either seat. From start to finish removing jump seat to console installed in just under 2 hours. I had previously installed then removed the same console from my RCSB so I had a feel for what I was doing, plus I've been working on cars for 47 years. The one thing I do recommend removing  is the multi-function switch under the head unit. It makes installing the front console bracket so much easier !

 

Move both seats all of the way back and remove the front jumpseat bolts, then move both seats all of the way forward and remove the rear jumpseat bolts. Roll the jumpseat on it's nose. Reach under the passenger seat and pull the little piece of plastic that the jumpseat connectors are clipped to off of the studs it slips over then disconnect them. The rest is in Phil's video.

 

Doing it my way there is no risk of scratching the door jambs with the seat tracks when removing the seats from the truck. You don't have to pick up and move the seats. And you don't disconnect the airbags and risk upsetting the airbag gods.

 

I'm 60 years old, 5'10", and 185 # so no spring chicken. By the way, I used no power tools.

[pgamboa]

I did mine without removing any bolts from either seat. From start to finish removing jump seat to console installed in just under 2 hours. I had previously installed then removed the same console from my RCSB so I had a feel for what I was doing, plus I've been working on cars for 47 years. The one thing I do recommend removing  is the multi-function switch under the head unit. It makes installing the front console bracket so much easier !
 
Move both seats all of the way back and remove the front jumpseat bolts, then move both seats all of the way forward and remove the rear jumpseat bolts. Roll the jumpseat on it's nose. Reach under the passenger seat and pull the little piece of plastic that the jumpseat connectors are clipped to off of the studs it slips over then disconnect them. The rest is in Phil's video.
 
Doing it my way there is no risk of scratching the door jambs with the seat tracks when removing the seats from the truck. You don't have to pick up and move the seats. And you don't disconnect the airbags and risk upsetting the airbag gods.
 
I'm 60 years old, 5'10", and 185 # so no spring chicken. By the way, I used no power tools.

Very good suggestions here! Forgot about those (2) upper 7mm bolts that move behind the IP panel!

As for the airbag, as long as the seats are plugged back in, the airbag light does go away. If you start the truck with a seat out, the airbag light does come on. It does go away once the seats are plugged backed in. It’s not like error code that needs to be reset (which is nice). I have heard of a couple of folks that ended up scratching their door sills or door panels with the seat track, and one that smashed the seat harness... so there is that risk.

All good points to consider.

We all get anxious to complete this upgrade, so taking your time is key. Don’t rush, make sure to take things strategically and methodically.


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[Nateb04]

10 hours ago, Enough said:

I did mine without removing any bolts from either seat. From start to finish removing jump seat to console installed in just under 2 hours. I had previously installed then removed the same console from my RCSB so I had a feel for what I was doing, plus I've been working on cars for 47 years. The one thing I do recommend removing  is the multi-function switch under the head unit. It makes installing the front console bracket so much easier !

 

Move both seats all of the way back and remove the front jumpseat bolts, then move both seats all of the way forward and remove the rear jumpseat bolts. Roll the jumpseat on it's nose. Reach under the passenger seat and pull the little piece of plastic that the jumpseat connectors are clipped to off of the studs it slips over then disconnect them. The rest is in Phil's video.

 

Doing it my way there is no risk of scratching the door jambs with the seat tracks when removing the seats from the truck. You don't have to pick up and move the seats. And you don't disconnect the airbags and risk upsetting the airbag gods.

 

I'm 60 years old, 5'10", and 185 # so no spring chicken. By the way, I used no power tools.

I maybe over thinking this a bit, but can you give a brief description of how to remove the multi function switch. I believe i understand why as it looks like there are two bolt that will be installed in that general area to mount the bracket with. If you don't remove the switch is it still possible to get at them? just much more miserable? Sorry for all the questions, just preparing myself for what lies ahead, generally when it come to me and plastic i always end up breaking something. lol

[pgamboa]

I maybe over thinking this a bit, but can you give a brief description of how to remove the multi function switch. I believe i understand why as it looks like there are two bolt that will be installed in that general area to mount the bracket with. If you don't remove the switch is it still possible to get at them? just much more miserable? Sorry for all the questions, just preparing myself for what lies ahead, generally when it come to me and plastic i always end up breaking something. lol

You have to remove the radio bezel/radio screen to expose the center bolt holding the IP switch in.

You can install the bolts without doing that but the space is tight. Box wrench/ratcheting if you have one or small socket should do the trick.


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[Enough]

My experience was that there was interference with a wiring harness and it was a real pain reaching up under there. 1/4" shallow socket on a ratchet was so tight it kept reversing itself on the back side of the dash and ratcheting wrench could only take small bites. Since you will already have the trim bezel and the radio screen removed why not take four more screws loose and make things easy?  Once you have the trim bezel off you'll see what I'm talking about. Your hands will also thank you. It also opens things up so you can see better routing for the USB cable you have to run to the HMI.

 

The most worry-some part of the whole job for me was getting the radio trim bezel off. I thought for sure I had snapped it 3 or 4 times but it was just another clip coming loose. I found it easier to start at the bottom and work up. Slow and steady pressure worked for me. 

 

If you are unsure of what you are doing take a picture of every step of disassembly for reference. It forces you to focus on the job one small task at a time instead of being overwhelmed by the whole thing. 

[novapwr]

A shout out to Phil on a great product! My harness came Friday. I put the new console in that evening. It took me some time to figure out how the two connectors on the 110v on the old ashtray door assembly released. Your harness looked nicer than a factory unit! Really good craftsmanship there! The two Amazon cords were easily trimmed to fit and easily routed. I did not pull or loosen my seats either but it did take awhile to figure how to get the connectors off the base they're on. The dash bracket was a bit tedious but doable. I only removed one cable from my HMI and never pulled it out, not sure why it would have to come out? The console looks great in there! Really glad I decided to go ahead with this upgrade. I still need to install the two supplied bolts through the console into the bracket. I watched that part of the video over and over where you open the console lid and lift the top off. I have tried and tried but afraid I will break something. Is there a trick to getting that to release? With the lid up I grab that edge like your video shows but I see top flexing a lot right at the rear and am afraid I'll break it. The console sits pretty  solid but I'd like to get the bolts in there. Thank you for all the effort to get this whole thing available in one shot! I love setting my phone on the lid and it charges! Lol. Your video and harness really made this a simple job.

[pgamboa]

A shout out to Phil on a great product! My harness came Friday. I put the new console in that evening. It took me some time to figure out how the two connectors on the 110v on the old ashtray door assembly released. Your harness looked nicer than a factory unit! Really good craftsmanship there! The two Amazon cords were easily trimmed to fit and easily routed. I did not pull or loosen my seats either but it did take awhile to figure how to get the connectors off the base they're on. The dash bracket was a bit tedious but doable. I only removed one cable from my HMI and never pulled it out, not sure why it would have to come out? The console looks great in there! Really glad I decided to go ahead with this upgrade. I still need to install the two supplied bolts through the console into the bracket. I watched that part of the video over and over where you open the console lid and lift the top off. I have tried and tried but afraid I will break something. Is there a trick to getting that to release? With the lid up I grab that edge like your video shows but I see top flexing a lot right at the rear and am afraid I'll break it. The console sits pretty  solid but I'd like to get the bolts in there. Thank you for all the effort to get this whole thing available in one shot! I love setting my phone on the lid and it charges! Lol. Your video and harness really made this a simple job.

Thanks for sharing! The upper tray is only held on by metal retaining clips on each side of the tray.




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[BkFromTxs]

After pics for my High Country seats install along with the center console install. 

Thank you Phil for the provided harnesses to make everything work. 

Was a lot more time consuming then expected.