Jump to content

Custom Trail Boss Console Upgrade?

Texas_Trail_Boss
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dea1276 Enthusiast

Dea1276

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ltdmstr said:

Does anyone have a photo of this part (84647286)?  Just want to confirm it's the right thing before I order one as there's a 20% restock fee plus shipping costs if returned.

Sure the guys that have ordered will post them once they get their parts installed. Thanks to everyone figure this out, and taking the plunge on ordering the parks! Looking forward to the install photos.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 401
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MisterEhEDC
MisterEhEDC

So I decided to peek inside the the top of the jumper seat today and I snapped some pictures for you guys. Here is my piece of the puzzle.   It looks like the lower portion of the arm rest h

Jeffed
Jeffed

I purchased the upper part of the armrest from the dealer for $490 Cdn$.  The bottom part apparently is multiple part and was super expensive (i think about $1000).   Anyways, it was a bit of wor

Little Rascal
Little Rascal

I will give a summary of what I did.  Not being mechanical at all, it wasn't easy but very doable.    The first step was to take the plastic side panels off the console.  Right off the bat,

Posted Images

tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ltdmstr said:

Well, I want ahead and ordered the part anyway.  Will post photos when it arrives.  Also ordered the fog lamp kit (84125494).

what did each of these run you $?

tomleo67 Enthusiast

tomleo67

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ltdmstr said:

Well, I want ahead and ordered the part anyway.  Will post photos when it arrives.  Also ordered the fog lamp kit (84125494).

YES PLEASE! TY

Brutus230 Enthusiast

Brutus230

Posted
Posted

Where are the pic's for the arm rest.  Surely some one will share so we all can have it.

 

Please post. 

Jeffed Enthusiast

Jeffed

Posted
Posted

I purchased the upper part of the armrest from the dealer for $490 Cdn$.  The bottom part apparently is multiple part and was super expensive (i think about $1000).  

Anyways, it was a bit of work, but at least I have a bit of storage.  I can deal with that issue now.

You need to remove the driver seat and will require a T50 and T55 bit. 

20190613_120503_resized.jpg

20190613_120514_resized.jpg

20190613_120518_resized.jpg

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Jeffed Enthusiast

Jeffed

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Brutus230 said:

Looks good.  DO you have all the part numbers you ordered to make this work. 

Its that #8464-7286.

There are 5 clips that hold the two plastic side pieces on.  You could probably take the old ones out and use them, but I just got new ones.  Was worried that I would squish them. I'm a bit impatient sometimes.  The clips are #8426-3801 if you want.  They were $3.76 CDN.

  • Like 2
Brutus230 Enthusiast

Brutus230

Posted
Posted

I thought 84647286 is the top part.  and there was another for the bottom.  when I take the top off mine it fill of foam. 

  • Like 1
Jeffed Enthusiast

Jeffed

Posted
Posted
Just now, Brutus230 said:

I thought 84647286 is the top part.  and there was another for the bottom.  when I take the top off mine it fill of foam. 

It is the entire upper section.  It includes the seatbelt. Here is the old one to see what you get.

20190613_123728.jpg

  • Like 1
Brutus230 Enthusiast

Brutus230

Posted
Posted

Thanks I think this will help us all.  we all want to fix this terrible thing chevy has done. 

Jeffed Enthusiast

Jeffed

Posted
Posted
Just now, Brutus230 said:

Thanks I think this will help us all.  we all want to fix this terrible thing chevy has done. 

I can deal with the other missing things, but the storage drove me insane.  Worth the money for my sanity.

Brutus230 Enthusiast

Brutus230

Posted
Posted

Ok I just ordered it cant wait to have a normal truck.  Just got the fog light in and getting it flashed tomorrow so they work. Thanks for taking the time there not many helping.

  • Like 1
Jeffed Enthusiast

Jeffed

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Brutus230 said:

Ok I just ordered it cant wait to have a normal truck.  Just got the fog light in and getting it flashed tomorrow so they work. Thanks for taking the time there not many helping.

Of course. It was a bit difficult to order the parts initially.  My dealer is good to me and sourced it out, basically just one from the LT models.  I would have liked to change the bottom section too, but they gave up once they started adding all the parts. Not worth that money.

Though about the fog lights. Let me know, maybe I'll do that someday..

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...