Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, if someone who might be inclined to do so;  could import the 789 pages into Excel or Access and do some analysis it would be interesting for sure.  It’s my guess that it may have already been done by maybe GM or someone who’s employed by the owners of this forum.  I think the first piece of data that would pop up is the old 80/20 rule applies.  That being that 80% of the posts are made by 20% of the posters ?...

Posted

So I'm a first time poster on here. Been aware of this chevy shake but just now really got the itch to get a new truck so I went out for a test drive. Hit the Chevy dealer first. 2018 CC LT Z71 with a leather interior. 10 miles on it. Transmission was clunky in the parking lot but smooth out on the road. Got it up to 70-75 mph on the highway and.....there's the vibration. I couldn't believe it. It wasn't as bad as the stuff out on youtube but it was definitely there. I was looking all over for imperfections in the road but it was smooth. It was a huge disappointment. I love the interior and the look of these trucks but I would feel like I'm gambling $40k hoping I don't get the shakes if I bought one. It's really turned me off from Chevy/GM. I had a Cruze diesel before and before I unloaded it I was making monthly trips to the dealer. They gave me a Silverado as a loaner once and I fell in love with it but after this most recent experience I am leaning more towards the F150 with the 5.0 (no ecoboost for me)

 

Posted
6 hours ago, ajgebhardt said:

So I'm a first time poster on here. Been aware of this chevy shake but just now really got the itch to get a new truck so I went out for a test drive. Hit the Chevy dealer first. 2018 CC LT Z71 with a leather interior. 10 miles on it. Transmission was clunky in the parking lot but smooth out on the road. Got it up to 70-75 mph on the highway and.....there's the vibration. I couldn't believe it. It wasn't as bad as the stuff out on youtube but it was definitely there. I was looking all over for imperfections in the road but it was smooth. It was a huge disappointment. I love the interior and the look of these trucks but I would feel like I'm gambling $40k hoping I don't get the shakes if I bought one. It's really turned me off from Chevy/GM. I had a Cruze diesel before and before I unloaded it I was making monthly trips to the dealer. They gave me a Silverado as a loaner once and I fell in love with it but after this most recent experience I am leaning more towards the F150 with the 5.0 (no ecoboost for me)

 

The F150 is a wise move The following features are available on the F150, but not available on the GM twins:

 

1) DOHC, 4 valve/cylinder engines

2) Adaptive Cruise Control

3) Blind Spot Monitors

4) 360 degree camera view

5) Rear HVAC vents

6) Keyless ignition

7) Trailer backup assist

8) Aluminum bodies

9) Console shifter

 

The EcoBoost engines have been thoroughly tested, unlike the 5.3L AFM. This video is lengthy, but worth the time:
 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hopefully we'll see Nissan throw in the white flag and give up. 

Posted
On 3/7/2018 at 5:10 PM, Takeda said:

The F150 is a wise move The following features are available on the F150, but not available on the GM twins:

 

 

1) DOHC, 4 valve/cylinder engines

 

2) Adaptive Cruise Control

 

3) Blind Spot Monitors

 

4) 360 degree camera view

 

5) Rear HVAC vents

 

6) Keyless ignition

 

7) Trailer backup assist

 

8) Aluminum bodies

 

9) Console shifter

 

10)   10 speed transmission    (added 3/12/18)

 

On 3/7/2018 at 5:10 PM, Takeda said:

 

 

 

The EcoBoost engines have been thoroughly tested, unlike the 5.3L AFM. This video is lengthy, but worth the time:
 

 

Added one more feature not available on GM twins

 

 

Posted
On 2/28/2018 at 6:42 PM, Bill Reinhardt said:

EDIT: Just got off the phone with my local GMC dealership service center. Stated that shaking at speeds in excess of 75+ mph has been found to be the nature of the fully boxed frame unloaded. He told me he drives a 2015 Sierra 1500 with the same symptoms and searched high and low for a solution when he first got the truck. Found out that placing weight in the back resolves the issue. Has anyone tried this?

 

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:

2014 Sierra 1500 5.3L 4x4 3.42 w/ 49,500 miles

 

Jeeze. Just got my truck a few weeks ago and noticed the shake at speeds in excess of 75mph. 

 

Lots of pages on this topic, lots of reading!

 

So far, the only solutions I can find are:

  • Driveshaft balance
  • Spring clamps
  • New shocks (Rear only? Seems to only cover the actual problem)
  • Torque converter (seems to apply to the 8-speed only)

I may be missing a few others, but I would love some sort of sticky that summarizes the solutions that have worked, and which engine/transmission/axle combinations it works for. Feel free to PM me your year, engine, drive train, transmission, and axle because I wouldn't mind compiling this info for everyone.

 

Almost at 800 pages of information here, there must be a solution.

 

I have had shake @ 75+ since new and was given the run around about it during my first free oil change and at the 2nd free oil change as well as the 3rd and final. They never even tried for me. I have since installed Toyo tires with balance beads and different wheels. I have a Halo adj. coilover set at 2". Kit came with rear shocks included. The shake is still there with shock and tire changes. I had an alignment when the tires went on and again when the shocks did. I did however speak to someone that mentioned the weight in back of the truck. Said something about "Nervous Chassis" and that may be the issue. I did try out his theory and it did actually help a little. I put 4) 70 lb. sand tubes up against back of cab in bed. Your trying for center of truck and it's this or the back of your cab, you choose lol. I ran like this for a week to avoid placebo effect. I think it is possible it masked the issue, but it did feel like it helped a bit never the less. A truck always runs smoother with a load and in this case it helps a little with the shakes. I needed the room for camping so out came the tubes and since it is rare to catch me going over 65 mph, I left them out. I run a 10 ply and lower the psi to 38-40 to absorb road chatter around town 45 mph and under. Once on the highway this soft tire will distort and cause some good shaking so check air pressure no matter the tire your running to be sure your not causing some shake on top of your shake. Simple I know, but you would be surprised by how many will look at more complicated reasons before the simple things lol. I would like to say I had the answer, but I saw that about weight in bed so I had to say I have heard it too and it helped a little in my case. It's unreasonable to be expected to do this for a smooth ride in a $40k truck even if it solved it completely.    2014 5.3 1500 6 sp 4x4

Posted

I have a 14 Sierra Denali 4wd 5.3. I also have the intermediate shake at 70+ but I have learned what makes the truck shake. I can get on the interstate and run 70 75 80 as smooth as silk but as soon as I go into a turn at those speeds the truck starts it’s shaking and then the shake will work it self out when I drop to lower speeds and then I can reach 70+ again and sometimes the shake is still there and sometimes it isn’t but if I turn my wheel again to go into a turn the shake starts back up and I have duplicated this over twenty times, it never fails.

Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, battleofone said:

I have a 14 Sierra Denali 4wd 5.3. I also have the intermediate shake at 70+ but I have learned what makes the truck shake. I can get on the interstate and run 70 75 80 as smooth as silk but as soon as I go into a turn at those speeds the truck starts it’s shaking and then the shake will work it self out when I drop to lower speeds and then I can reach 70+ again and sometimes the shake is still there and sometimes it isn’t but if I turn my wheel again to go into a turn the shake starts back up and I have duplicated this over twenty times, it never fails.

I had the same experience last summer on my 17 Chevy 2500HD Duramax Highcountry.  In the old days if tires were slightly out of balance successive turns could cause the shimmy to come and go.  Same is true today.  It is hard to find sufficiently smooth roads in MT to experiment especially in winter.  Mine has had 6 Michelins road forced balanced and still vibrates.  It sits in my woodshop all winter hoping for a buy back or enhanced trade in.  The notion that weight in the rear helps is one I agree with or at least added load reduces the sensation.

Mine did not vibrate the few times I hit 70mph pulling a 4500lb camping trailer last summer.  I usually keep it to 65 when towing.

Edited by blue_bullet
Posted (edited)
On 3/13/2018 at 7:04 PM, battleofone said:

" but I have learned what makes the truck shake."

So, what makes it shake?  You're telling us when it happens, not why.

Edited by steelcity
Posted (edited)

So I bought the truck about almost two years ago. With 42k miles. Right off the bat I noticed a vibration I took it back whitin a week and I let the problem go.

the vibration is still there. I took my truck back last week to Coral Springs GMC they changed the engine mounts and it still vibrates just as bad they did not even washed my truck when they were done!

GM is doing nothing to fix this problem. I am so fed up with their BS. On top of that I took my truck to Delray GMC because the transmission is also slipping. The service manager Bob tried to rip me off. He recognized the issue with the tranny and told me he would fix it under warranty, however I would have to pay for a transmission flush. I told GM about how he tried to extortion me. GM did nothing about this. 

I bought a lemon and there is absolutely nothing I can do. I know the shaking is not going away and on top of that, this service manager lied through his teeth and he wrote in  the notes that my transmission fluid was black and is not covered by warranty. This is ridiculous.

My next step is filing a claim with the BBB for breach of warranty contract and contacting a lawyer.

Stay away from these trucks they are an expensive POS!

Edited by Esteban Parodi
Mispelling
Posted

I fixed mine with a two piece driveshaft kit from "performance drivelines". I further took the 20 inch wheels off and went back to some 17 inch wheels left over from my 2006 Tahoe. Smooth as silk now. I'm hoping it stays that way.

Posted

So has anyone put their "shaker" trucks on a dynomometer, run up to the vibration speeds (75-80+),

and taken a video?  A picture (or in this case a video) could be worth a 1000 words to the

non-believer GM service managers.  I haven't found one yet in my area but still looking.

A video could be shared with all of us for proof.

Also with 1 month left on my 36 month bumper-bumper warranty I'll be S-O-L soon.

Quite interesting about the Feb. sales report with Ford increasing and Chevy/GMC dropping

way off...Just maybe this shaking/vibration issue is getting buyer's attention. 

Close the Mexican assembly plants.  Cheap labor=a cheap product.

Listen up GM!

Posted

IMO

Taking into account the money available to GM, if they wanted to fix this problem they would have done it by now.

This is a problem that is rare so they go with the flow.

 

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...