Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, red70judge said:

So has anyone put their "shaker" trucks on a dynomometer, run up to the vibration speeds (75-80+),

and taken a video?  A picture (or in this case a video) could be worth a 1000 words to the

non-believer GM service managers.  I haven't found one yet in my area but still looking.

A video could be shared with all of us for proof.

Also with 1 month left on my 36 month bumper-bumper warranty I'll be S-O-L soon.

Quite interesting about the Feb. sales report with Ford increasing and Chevy/GMC dropping

way off...Just maybe this shaking/vibration issue is getting buyer's attention. 

Close the Mexican assembly plants.  Cheap labor=a cheap product.

Listen up GM!

Not dyno but real life.  Dealer put on a set of tires from another truck off the lot and it not shake as bad.  I’ll be going back to dealer to get next set of tires that don’t shake my truck. Wish me luck! Shaking started around 25k with sra’A 

Edited by Gofas
Posted

Based on my experience using Dyna beads to balance motorcycle tires, I thought there could be a way to install a balancing device on the driveshaft based on the same principle.  

 

I googled for 30 seconds and found that someone has actually made what I envisioned.  Might be worth a try.

 

http://www.balancemasters.com/driveshafts.html

Posted

Agree with most of the list, especially the Toyota’s.  They build bullet proof engines as far as I’m concerned.  I do question the F-150 being on the list though as I’m not sold on the Ecoboost just yet as I’ve read there’s problems when used as a serious work truck.  Personally, I’ve been driving GM trucks since my 1975 Chev Blue Flame in-line six and have never lost an engine.  Anyway, I’m starting to pay attention to what’s coming with the 2019 GM twins.  Very interested in Magnetic Ride technology.  

Posted

My ex neighbor was a die hard Ford guy.

Bought new trucks every 3 years.

According to him the local Ford dealer would get Eco Boosts with thrown rods.

Usually cylinder #2.

 

:)

Posted
On 3/18/2018 at 10:46 PM, Gofas said:

Not dyno but real life.  Dealer put on a set of tires from another truck off the lot and it not shake as bad.  I’ll be going back to dealer to get next set of tires that don’t shake my truck. Wish me luck! Shaking started around 25k with sra’A 

Wrong video. Sry guys. Hard to tell on that one.

Posted

Don't know about the ecoboosts but my last two work truck have been F150's, got rid of my 12 model last year with 150k miles and it was doing fine.  That one and my current one both had the 5.0 V8 though.  I love my silverado's (owned 4 in a row the last 25 years) but my 2012 and current F150 work trucks have never been back to the dealer but my 14 has been back about a dozen times over mainly recalls but for a few other things (including the shake).  I still would probably buy another chevy when it is time to move on which is about every 10 years for me but it would not bother me to look at a Ford either. 

Posted (edited)

Long time GM customer here, since the early 80s.  But after having my '16 Silverado vibrator for a little over a year and a half, I'll be looking at Ford when the time comes.

Edited by Willyone
Posted
On ‎3‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 1:46 AM, Gofas said:

Not dyno but real life.  Dealer put on a set of tires from another truck off the lot and it not shake as bad.  I’ll be going back to dealer to get next set of tires that don’t shake my truck. Wish me luck! Shaking started around 25k with sra’A 

No vibes.... That must be a Ford LOL

  • Like 1
Posted

I don't see any abnormal shaking in that video..

  • Like 1
Posted

I don't either, what is this guy complaining about?!?!  The drink bottle in my Jeep GC shake as much as that and it is one smooth riding vehicle.  That is the downside to forums like this, people read something and then go looking for it in their own vehicle and some how find what was non-existent to them.  

Posted
20 minutes ago, tnchevy said:

I don't either, what is this guy complaining about?!?!  The drink bottle in my Jeep GC shake as much as that and it is one smooth riding vehicle.  That is the downside to forums like this, people read something and then go looking for it in their own vehicle and some how find what was non-existent to them.  

Yup.. people see these videos then run out their truck with a water bottle. If they see the water vibrate they say "I have a problem!", even if they didn't notice anything prior to seeing the 'water bottle test' videos. 

Posted (edited)

He said it was the wrong video... guess some people can't read... or maybe he's just whiny... hahah.. this thread is priceless... 

 

13k problem free miles on my F150. Glad I swapped back..  not one regret... not one visit to the shop.. not one suspicion of a problem.. I turn the key, put it in gear and it drives... period. Thats what $40k should get you.. 

 

So my neighbor just asked me about my old truck (15 Silverado) as his son was looking at a used Silverado (14 w/33k miles). He said the transmission clunked and it drove like squat on the highway.. I was shocked... told him to buy it as he's probably imagining all these problems. And then to go get a Chevy or GM tattoo.. 

 

Still can't stay away from this train wreck of a thread though... really hope the 2019's are fixed.. for the sake of those that won't drive FERDS. Nobody should have to deal with this.. it's GM's problem but the poor suckers like us pay the price.

 

 

Edited by Noob_chevy
  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/13/2018 at 1:39 AM, Rambodog said:

I have had shake @ 75+ since new and was given the run around about it during my first free oil change and at the 2nd free oil change as well as the 3rd and final. They never even tried for me. I have since installed Toyo tires with balance beads and different wheels. I have a Halo adj. coilover set at 2". Kit came with rear shocks included. The shake is still there with shock and tire changes. I had an alignment when the tires went on and again when the shocks did. I did however speak to someone that mentioned the weight in back of the truck. Said something about "Nervous Chassis" and that may be the issue. I did try out his theory and it did actually help a little. I put 4) 70 lb. sand tubes up against back of cab in bed. Your trying for center of truck and it's this or the back of your cab, you choose lol. I ran like this for a week to avoid placebo effect. I think it is possible it masked the issue, but it did feel like it helped a bit never the less. A truck always runs smoother with a load and in this case it helps a little with the shakes. I needed the room for camping so out came the tubes and since it is rare to catch me going over 65 mph, I left them out. I run a 10 ply and lower the psi to 38-40 to absorb road chatter around town 45 mph and under. Once on the highway this soft tire will distort and cause some good shaking so check air pressure no matter the tire your running to be sure your not causing some shake on top of your shake. Simple I know, but you would be surprised by how many will look at more complicated reasons before the simple things lol. I would like to say I had the answer, but I saw that about weight in bed so I had to say I have heard it too and it helped a little in my case. It's unreasonable to be expected to do this for a smooth ride in a $40k truck even if it solved it completely.    2014 5.3 1500 6 sp 4x4

I've run my truck unloaded, loaded with up to 1000 pounds or so, and towing an 8000 pound trailer.  ALWAYS shakes.  No matter what.

Posted (edited)

First time poster, long time follower of this topic!  I first got my 2016 Chevy Silverado in July 2016 and I didn’t really notice it until around 8000 miles. I now have 17,000 miles on it, have had my truck to the dealer about six times, and they give me the same runaround bullshit! They did a pico scope test, roadforce, and tell me it’s within GM specs. I tried the Hellwig Springs, no go on that either. I did see where someone changed out the rear end for a Yukon rear but I’m not going through all that hassle. 

 

heres mine: <sorry for portrait video.....its easier when driving>

 

 

Edited by 2016ChevyShaker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...