Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Rolling tunder - the dealership told me they got no prints from road forced balancing because the machine can’t print results to a printer. So not sure how that works because an independent tire shop told me to ask dealership for printout of results as they said they had issues with Goodyear wranglers the very same one on GM trucks. Like tires were bad from manufacturer to start with. Who knows anymore what’s the cause but like others said GM knows but won’t admit to it. 

Posted

I like a good conspiracy theory as much as the next guy, particularly when it involves the manufacturer of my craptacular 1980 Pontiac that turned me off American cars for over 30 years.

 

That said, it's hard to be sure of how widespread defective driveshafts really are, given how many of these trucks are sold every year.  At these sales volumes it only takes a 0.1% defect rate to create a huge uproar in the forums.  And then there are the cases like mine, where a tire swap or other "quick fix" did in fact solve the problem.   GM was right to suggest it as a first line of attack.  

 

Anyway, I hope the more seriously afflicted owners do find a cure.   Big corporations are driven by economics, always seeking the cheapest possible way around a problem.   The trick is to make it unbearably expensive for them to ignore you.

Posted
4 hours ago, Barak said:

Rolling tunder - the dealership told me they got no prints from road forced balancing because the machine can’t print results to a printer. So not sure how that works because an independent tire shop told me to ask dealership for printout of results as they said they had issues with Goodyear wranglers the very same one on GM trucks. Like tires were bad from manufacturer to start with. Who knows anymore what’s the cause but like others said GM knows but won’t admit to it. 

Barak,

 

I made no reference to 'road force balancing,' my reference was to the PICO tester and its available printout.

 

Your experience with those Goodyear Wranglers is another example of what may solve one owner's issues and not anothers.  When I bought my truck I removed the 20" chrome wheels and installed the default 18" Z71 aluminum wheels with those Goodyear Wranglers.   I never had a vibration then and don't have one now and those wheels and tires carried us to Florida once and Alabama twice on the 70MPH+ Interstates.  I've seen many complaints about the Wrangler tires here but I never had any issues with them.

 

I've had the 18" wheels conventionally balanced independently by a private shop after the exchange, not a road force balance, and the factory balance left a lot to be desired.  I personally have no idea what causes the vibration on a small percentage of these GM trucks but it's a helluva thing to read about the problem on $50,000 +/- trucks and the understandable dissatisfaction of those owners.

Posted
22 hours ago, Barak said:

LoL what a process. Well interesting enough I have to say that I have not been noticing vibration at 72-75 speeds anymore. It’s strange but it’s no longer apparent like before. I did sort of feel it at higher speeds like 85-95 but that could be due to cross winds etc especially going that speed. However, the dealer should be reaching out back to me to work on service bulletins once they have PICO tool in thier hands. So we will see what that comes to. I do feel that a real shake/vibration is at driveshaft area. And it’s not uncommon for engineers to come out and enage. Hopefully by having engineers due this maybe GM will come out with a fix and recall. Let see what happens. Keep posting please. Thanks! 

I got a 2016 Suburban February and it doesn't vibrate until I hook up a trailer, shakes worse when towing on fresh blacktop then concrete, when I towed my tractor back from cabin in north WI a few weeks back it didn't shake. Your comment got me thinking, aluminum absorbs heat, and when it is hot there is less strength to it, could it be that blacktop is much hotter then concrete and we have much colder weather here now?  Hot driveshaft is weaker then a cold one?

Posted

Interesting perspective. I hope GM is reviewing and listening to these experiences we are all having. The driveshaft hot/cold makes lot of sense given weather conditions in certain parts of country unless it’s tires or any other suspension components which seem to be first things GM suggests to look into and rule stuff out. 

Posted

I’ve recently encountered this “infamous” shake or vibration but mine is more around 1250 rpm. Doesnt really matter the speed but it’s more when I’m speeding up staying at  1250 rpm it’s constant so I have to give it more gas to get out of the “shake”. Has GM solved any of these issues? Or given answers to what’s at fault?

Posted

Nope.  They are staying quiet about it and no matter what amount of noise the public makes, they seem to be able to muffle it.   They and other manufacturers will just ignore the issue or put it on the back burner and hope the new model doesn't have the same issue and focus on the new model instead of doing the right thing to make right the screwed up engineering somewhere for the many thousands of people who have the issues. 

Posted

You’ve got the torque converter slip. I have it on both my vehicles. I’ve had the flush, the valve spring replacement, new engine mounts, and they replaced the TC. Still an issue. My dealer said they are working on designing a new TC and will replace via recall. Don’t hold your breath. 

Posted

Text from the dealer today said - GM engineers recommended that we take the driveshaft to a shop to have it checked and balanced. 

 

Fingers crossed this actually could fix it 

Posted (edited)

The more I read the more I question my situation. I have a 18 Suburban, my first red flag was the excessive vibrations when at highest speed, too it in and the balance my tires problem seemed to be better. Next I went in for a headline issue and mentioned vibrations so they road force balance them and replaced one tire. Just drove 350 miles around 70-90mph and it felt like excessive bouncing like suspension was over working. I didn't feel like the whole car was shaking like my first time I noticed this issue. My experience is that 50+mph it feels like I'm driving in a cobblestone street. 

Does anyone know what GM "within specs" are for road force balance. I just had my 2018 Suburban road forced and the numbers they said seen higher than I recall my previous cars have had. They replaced one tire but I still have vibrations.

 

 

Edited by Dearmosd
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Dearmosd said:

Does anyone know what GM "within specs" are for road force balance. I just had my 2018 Suburban road forced and the numbers they said seen higher than I recall my previous cars have had. They replaced one tire but I still have vibrations.

My experience is that 50+mph it feels like I'm driving in a cobblestone street. 

 

 

Under 10LBS is what I was told by my service manager Dearmosd but GM calls for under 15. 

 

 

Edited by GMCJOE17
Posted

When I was a kid I worked in a gas station (50 years ago).  We sold, mounted, and balanced hundreds of tires on cars and trucks.  And through the years I've had lots of cars and trucks that I had tires replaced on after they wore out.  95% didn't have or cause any vibrations.  God bless those that are trying to solve the Chevy vibe issues, but generally it seems to go way deeper than just tires and or wheels.  GM engineers know what the problem is, or problems are, they just aren't letting the cat out'a the bag.

 

Class action might help but what I believe what we really need is for major news organizations (yeah, even the "fake news" folks) to be made aware of the issue and report it.  Make the problem known to the public at large, not just the unsuspecting suckers that buy these trucks.

Posted (edited)

I believe it's the cheap, hollow out of round aluminum driveshafts that are to blame for the shake. I've seen a few people that got steel, 2-piece driveshafts installed and the vibrations were gone.

Edited by ShubiSnax
Posted
2 hours ago, ShubiSnax said:

I believe it's the cheap hollow, out of round aluminum driveshafts that are to blame for the shake. I've seen a few people that got steel, 2-piece driveshafts installed and the vibrations were gone.

Agree, the angle of the shaft to the rear end is an issue plus the cheap Aluminum shaft with Cardboard core is another issue. Trying to balance the tires to PERFECTION may help the balance issue but it wont solve it. Anything GM can do to take the spotlight off the driveshafts and save money you know they are going to do. Imagine a recall on ALL the driveshafts from 2014-2018. 

Driveshaft2.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The “engine hours” display is there because the truck detects the key presence as you were thinking.   My first step would be to call a dealer service person and ask if this a known issue and how they deal with it. If you don’t get meaningful advice there, i would try a couple of DIY things before bringing it in for troubleshooting/repair.   It sounds like a mechanical key detection switch is stuck, but I have not actually seen what the internals look like. Maybe spray some Caig Deoxit (electrical contact cleaner) in the key hole and work the key in and out in case it’s an electrical contact cleanliness issue.  If that doesn’t work, next apply whatever lubricant GM recommends and work the key in and out a few times.    Good luck with it. 
    • Carbon on valves would be the least of my worries on a light duty, 1500-series pickup with 357k provided the engine still ran halfway decently. Everything else is likely toast, on its way out, or has already been mauled to death by cheap mechanics and backyard fixes. Those kinds of trucks nickel and dime a guy to death.   I wouldn't think having the top end cleaned once or twice would be a big deal on a 5.3 but maybe it is?
    • I wonder how much carbon is on all those high mileage valves?
    • When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...