Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

Posted

I had the seat TSB done last week. Too bad the tech who worked on my truck tore up the interior door panel, B pillar and door sill while taking the seat out. Now i'll be waiting weeks for those part to come in for them to have to take the seat back out to replace the B pillar trim. Sounds like the hose clamp way is the most stress free, easy and assured way to fix this problem.

  • Like 1
Posted

To save me time reading this whole thread, I had the seat bottom movement on my 14 silverado. It was fixed prior to ditching it for my current 14 sierra

 

My sierra has developed the seat bottom movement now but there is also movement on the seat back. Is the seat back a known problem area too?

Posted

Just noticed mine was crooked yesterday. Already have to go back for repairs they failed to perform correctly last time anyway.

Posted

Good evening all! I own a 2014 Sierra Denali and unfortunately encountered the same seat movement. After reading some of the discussions I did have my dealer install the clips for my seat (the service advisor knew exactly what I needed and ordered the parts in advance). The fix did not work though. I made sure the clips were installed and noted the technician inspected for possible weld breaks also. I read in a discussion how an owner installed 2 clamps on the front rail to restrict the clips and thus the seat front shifting from side to side. I picked up a couple of clamps from my hardware store and installed them on the round tube the seat is attached to placing them snug against the outside of either clip. Worked! It's been over 2 months now without any shifting or noise of any sort. I've been a happy camper since.

 

I'm sure GM will come up with a more elegant solution, but in the meantime....

 

Cheers!

Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

What page is the hose clamp fix on? Are there detailed instructions. I am having the same problem with my seat. Scheduled to go in Monday to be looked at.

 

Thanks

Dave

Posted

I have noticed a lot of folks posting issues with their front seats moving. I have the same problem. Dealer has no idea what to do about it. He said that he would report the issue what ever that means?

Posted

The pics of the hose clamp fix is on a post about 2 pages prior to this page. I don't recall a positive dealer fix for the movement. The hose clamps work. It's a five min fix.

Posted (edited)

What does the hose clamp do? Attach the seat top to the frame? What a hosed design!

Edited by pm26
Posted (edited)

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I butted them up against the inside of the two white clips on the front of the seat rail. As you can see below the clamp doesn't but up against the entire clip, just the white part protruding at the top. I kept trying to get it right against it, and didn't realize until I took the picture that the white part sticking out was what it mated up against.

 

eza4ehap.jpg

 

evyjy9eb.jpg

 

Here are the parts that I pulled the rubber off of to go on the hose clamp:

 

http://www.ultimategarage.com/frontpage-images/ABARubberClamp1.jpg

 

So far so good and this seems to be a fix until GM comes out with a better one or if they don't, it will remain permanent. Hope this helps anyone who is having this issue!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post 278 guys. This is what it looks like.

 

Works perfectly!!

Edited by Smoothbassman
Posted

Just starting to notice this clunk thing that everyone has talked about in the last week. I also like to sit with the seat raised up. The noise only happens when i go around a corner it seems. If it continues, it looks like I will be doing this garage fix as well.

Posted

Going to buy the clamps tomorrow.

 

I've got a buddy coming in town this weekend but I'm definitely doing this hose clamp fix next weekend. My seat shifting is getting worse and the dealer is f*****g useless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...