Rusting Frame

[paullgj]

2016 regular cab, purchased new 3 months ago (10/1/2016). So I stumbled on to this thread last night and read it start to finish. I live in extreme South Texas - it snows here about once every 100 years. Rust no problem, right? Wrong - extreme high temps and humidity and lots of salt air. No problem - keep the truck in the garage overnight and a good carnauba wax job. Never thought to worry about the frame. So I crawled under last night, after reading all these threads, and yep, some bare spots, with metal exposed. Probably the result of rocks/pebbles on caliche roads. I was surprised at just how thin the wax coating is. No, I'm not taking it to Chevrolet - as someone suggested the only way to do this is sand, prime, and some black enamel paint in the affected areas. But this changes everything - no underneath power hose sprays like a used to to with my Jeep after beach running. I'd crawl under the thing and scrub/wash the frame. That will pull the wax off. This changes everything - I'm 71 and continually sanding/painting the frame is going to get old very fast.

 

I'm not new to Chevrolet - been driving their pickups and old style Blazers since the 1960's. Had to deal with the surface rust on the body, but never frame rust until a 2004 which I had purchased used, sight-unseen, from PA. My sister, who lives up there, had checked it out, said the body was perfect. I guess she never crawled underneath it. When it got down here - large chunks of frame rust started to peel off. Spent a lot of time scarping the thing, then undercoating it. I attributed that to the PA climate. Never dreamed that the frame wax was over bare metal, so never thought that was an issue when I bought my 2016. It doesn't take a Ph. D. in automotive design to realize that wax over a bare metal steel frame isn't the greatest for long term longevity. When did GM start this process - I'm thinking with the 1999 or 2000 models.

 

Most owners don't crawl under their vehicles and check things out like we fanatics on these forum do. I was really happy with my new 2016 (no vibrations or any other problems) until this. It's going to be continual long term maintenance - much more involved than the twice a year clay bar and waxing I do to the body.

[HondaHawkGT]

2016 regular cab, purchased new 3 months ago (10/1/2016). So I stumbled on to this thread last night and read it start to finish. I live in extreme South Texas - it snows here about once every 100 years. Rust no problem, right? Wrong - extreme high temps and humidity and lots of salt air. No problem - keep the truck in the garage overnight and a good carnauba wax job. Never thought to worry about the frame. So I crawled under last night, after reading all these threads, and yep, some bare spots, with metal exposed. Probably the result of rocks/pebbles on caliche roads. I was surprised at just how thin the wax coating is. No, I'm not taking it to Chevrolet - as someone suggested the only way to do this is sand, prime, and some black enamel paint in the affected areas. But this changes everything - no underneath power hose sprays like a used to to with my Jeep after beach running. I'd crawl under the thing and scrub/wash the frame. That will pull the wax off. This changes everything - I'm 71 and continually sanding/painting the frame is going to get old very fast.

 

I'm not new to Chevrolet - been driving their pickups and old style Blazers since the 1960's. Had to deal with the surface rust on the body, but never frame rust until a 2004 which I had purchased used, sight-unseen, from PA. My sister, who lives up there, had checked it out, said the body was perfect. I guess she never crawled underneath it. When it got down here - large chunks of frame rust started to peel off. Spent a lot of time scarping the thing, then undercoating it. I attributed that to the PA climate. Never dreamed that the frame wax was over bare metal, so never thought that was an issue when I bought my 2016. It doesn't take a Ph. D. in automotive design to realize that wax over a bare metal steel frame isn't the greatest for long term longevity. When did GM start this process - I'm thinking with the 1999 or 2000 models.

 

Most owners don't crawl under their vehicles and check things out like we fanatics on these forum do. I was really happy with my new 2016 (no vibrations or any other problems) until this. It's going to be continual long term maintenance - much more involved than the twice a year clay bar and waxing I do to the body.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

 

You could try this stuff instead of painting the spots. Just don't get it on your skin.

[Thomcat]

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I'm not new to Chevrolet - been driving their pickups and old style Blazers since the 1960's. Had to deal with the surface rust on the body, but never frame rust until a 2004 which I had purchased used, sight-unseen, from PA. My sister, who lives up there, had checked it out, said the body was perfect. I guess she never crawled underneath it. When it got down here - large chunks of frame rust started to peel off. Spent a lot of time scarping the thing, then undercoating it. I attributed that to the PA climate. Never dreamed that the frame wax was over bare metal, so never thought that was an issue when I bought my 2016. It doesn't take a Ph. D. in automotive design to realize that wax over a bare metal steel frame isn't the greatest for long term longevity. When did GM start this process - I'm thinking with the 1999 or 2000 models.

 

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I suspect that as a result of CAFE standards and the ever increasing need to reduce weight the automotive industry chose the same solution that afflicted early 80s Japanese rust buckets-----changed percentages of carbon and other elements for stronger steel alloys which permitted thinner gauges and saved weight, but rusted much faster than the previous alloys.

 

Rusting is not new and occurred on all vehicles to a lesser extent until the 70s when automakers eliminated frames and went to unit bodies on passenger vehicles to reduce weight. Doesn't affect passenger vehicles now because their frame-less bodies permit the entire unit to be dipped in anti-corrosion compounds, primed, painted and clear coated. However, a simple coating of snot on truck frames doesn't offer much protection and the newer alloys rust a lot quicker than the older pre-centennial trucks.

 

Aside from common sense methods to prevent accelerated rusting, e.g. never parking a wet salted vehicle in a heated garage and flushing the frame, bumpers and tank areas with fresh water ASAP, one prophylactic measure that might help would be oil spraying. Oil spraying was common on all framed vehicles during their routine 3000 mile oil/filter and greasing prior to unit bodies, sealed fittings and extended oil changes and it does inhibit rusting on uncoated steel. More difficult to do nowadays because you have to be careful around disc brake areas whose discs are more susceptible to contamination than the drums on older brake assemblies.......temporary fix - but enough to hold until the next 3-4K oil change and does seem to help on the frame where the metal becomes exposed especially inside the frame, the weld and hole areas, in the rear spring shackle, and the sway bar areas. It certainly kept the frames of my Avalanches which used Mexican sourced crap steel frames covered with snot looking great and almost rust free compared to others posted on the Avy board. Two oil sprays so far on my year old Silverado and no rusting yet.

[HondaHawkGT]

Even today the Japanese vehicles are rust buckets. Toyota just lost a lawsuit and is being forced to recall the Tacoma and Tundra due to severe rust rot. And their frames were painted.

 

I agree with you on strategies for dealing with rust. Oil/fluid film-like materials are the most effective way of preventing rust issues. I spray mine twice each year, both inside and out and it's worked well so far. Until more manufacturers are sued for rust issues, I dont see anything changing. Personally I want to see wax and e-coating go away in favor of an epoxy-based paint or coating.

[paullgj]

Even today the Japanese vehicles are rust buckets. Toyota just lost a lawsuit and is being forced to recall the Tacoma and Tundra due to severe rust rot. And their frames were painted.

 

I agree with you on strategies for dealing with rust. Oil/fluid film-like materials are the most effective way of preventing rust issues. I spray mine twice each year, both inside and out and it's worked well so far. Until more manufacturers are sued for rust issues, I dont see anything changing. Personally I want to see wax and e-coating go away in favor of an epoxy-based paint or coating.

Wife shopping at the local mall today - I get dragged along to suffer. Waiting in the courtyard I see a new GMC Canyon on display. So crawl under - no goop/wax/slop covered frame - looks like some kind of powder coated black enamel. Liked what I saw. No, not going to go from a Silverado to a Colorado/Canyon, but just wonder why they couldn't have give the same frame treatment to the Silverado/Sierra. We don't have snow/ice down here at the southern tip of Texas, but beach running is the same as salt on the roads up north. If I spray/clean the salt/sand it will remove the wax to be replaced by prepping/primer/painting. I intend to keep this vehicle for a long time so in the end it will be a painted frame, albeit bit by bit.

[Colossus]

Perhaps they are trying it out on the little trucks before going to the big ones.

[BigBadBruins]

Just picked up my 2015 LTZ Z71 the other day. Im embarrassed to say it, but it never even occurred to me to look at the frame. What the hell is going on under here? Im trying to get an appt with the dealer nearby to clean it off. My pressure washer isn't getting anywhere. Spent an hour at like 1600 and only got about 90% off in a 1 foot area.

Edited March 5, 2017 by BigBadBruins

[BigBadBruins]

one more to show how caked on it is

 

[AllTerrainX]

one more to show how caked on it is

 

Looks just like mud/dirt to me?

[SilveradoSaver]

I crawled under my truck the other day to check something out, and noticed a small patch by my drivers side rear crew cab door that was starting to rust. I contacted my local dealership and they have me scheduled on Monday to bring it in. They said it could be two things: 1) The "known issue" of the flaking of the factory spray on stuff, which they said they will fix or 2) they didn't actually spray on the rust inhibitor under my truck, like I paid for and they said they did.

 

Is there a way to tell the difference between whatever they spray on under the truck as a rust inhibitor versus the factory spray on stuff? Just curious if I can tell at quick glance. I'd be very pissed off if I paid for a service they didn't even perform.

Edited March 5, 2017 by SilveradoSaver

[RJP44]

For those who get this done under warranty, which warranty exactly are the dealerships saying its covered under? 3 year 36k bumper to bumper or is this part of the corrosion warranty? My 2014 could use a touch up in a lot of spots and was going to call the dealership tomorrow and see what they say. Currently it has 35k so its under the 36k mile warranty but its getting close.

[Haus_Z71]

For those who get this done under warranty, which warranty exactly are the dealerships saying its covered under? 3 year 36k bumper to bumper or is this part of the corrosion warranty? My 2014 could use a touch up in a lot of spots and was going to call the dealership tomorrow and see what they say. Currently it has 35k so its under the 36k mile warranty but its getting close.

I just double checked my paperwork and unfortunately it didn't specify. I recall looking into the detail of the corrosion warranty though and did not see the frame included. So, if I were you I'd get it right away. You are getting close! Also, you will likely only get one chance for them to fix this. Make sure they do it exactly as the TSB says which includes removing the bed. My dealer had redone mine twice and it still get peeling off and rusting out. And they didn't remove the bed. I found spots where they has just sprayed over the rust too. Nothing is more frustrating to see than that. I went off on the manager and he just ignored my complaints.

[BigBadSierra]

The wax coating and a the pressure washer are not the best idea as it will strip it off.

 

I just go under and hand wash. Kept the frame on my 2014 looking like new.

[SilveradoSaver]

I just double checked my paperwork and unfortunately it didn't specify. I recall looking into the detail of the corrosion warranty though and did not see the frame included. So, if I were you I'd get it right away. You are getting close! Also, you will likely only get one chance for them to fix this. Make sure they do it exactly as the TSB says which includes removing the bed. My dealer had redone mine twice and it still get peeling off and rusting out. And they didn't remove the bed. I found spots where they has just sprayed over the rust too. Nothing is more frustrating to see than that. I went off on the manager and he just ignored my complaints.

 

 

I dropped my truck off this morning for them to take care of this. I was glad to hear them mention the truck would be sent to a company to be properly cleaned under neither prior to re-applying whatever coating is under the truck. They could have just taken the lazy way and I wouldn't have a clue... Until the issue re-appeared again.

[SilveradoSaver]

Just picked up my truck from my local GM dealership to deal with the flaking undercoat/rust issue. Not only did they clean it and respray the entire underside of the truck, but they also re-sprayed the interior fabric protection as well. There was nothing wrong with this, but they decided to do it. Thought they handled this issue very well. They think the flaking/rusting may have started when someone put the truck on a hoist while the spray had initially just been applied; could have been at the dealership or factory, they don't know. Doesn't matter - They made things right!