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I have a 2014 1500 LTZ and was looking to upgrade to something with Apple car play. 

I took it to a local shop this week and got my truck back yesterday and I’m disappointed with what they put in, on my drive home unit shut off twice and is laggy. Was a pioneer brand unit. I’m going to be requesting they remove it, Any suggestions what I can swap too? I’d like to retain my factory mic and usb functions as I lost those with the unit they recommended.

I was looking at this not sure on quality though. Thanks! 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stereo-12-1-Android-Vertical-Screen-Chevrolet-Silverado-2014-2018-Nav-Radio-GPS/173781842298?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3Dbdb1e22d8bb44a738f1309a120affa2d%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D282219624979%26itm%3D173781842298&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276

Edited by rhino2020

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I have a 2014 1500 LTZ and was looking to upgrade to something with Apple car play. 
I took it to a local shop this week and got my truck back yesterday and I’m disappointed with what they put in, on my drive home unit shut off twice and is laggy. Was a pioneer brand unit. I’m going to be requesting they remove it, Any suggestions what I can swap too? I’d like to retain my factory mic and usb functions as I lost those with the unit they recommended.
I was looking at this not sure on quality though. Thanks! 
 
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stereo-12-1-Android-Vertical-Screen-Chevrolet-Silverado-2014-2018-Nav-Radio-GPS/173781842298?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3Dbdb1e22d8bb44a738f1309a120affa2d%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D282219624979%26itm%3D173781842298&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276
There's a thread on this exact unit. Not looking to good...

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

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Yeah, I was concerned about quality. I didn’t see other thread. Have suggestion for different unit ? 

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5 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

There's a thread on this exact unit. Not looking to good...

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Have a link? I searched and only thing that came up for me

is my own thread. 

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The new Alpine with Apple carplay is the best bet, it's going to cost you $2k+ install though

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Have a link? I searched and only thing that came up for me
is my own thread. 
Give me a few

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

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I had a Kenwood DDX6905SS in my 2011 Silverado.  I liked all the features, including Apple Car Play and it has Android play as well in case you're not an Apple fan.  It did require a different microphone to be installed for use in telling Siri what you needed or to talk on the phone but it was very clear during conversations.  My one complaint was that it would not connect/plug into the factory Sirius XM antennae on the truck so the dealer had to install the antennae that attached magnetically to the roof.  Kenwood worked out the kinks where the unit would restart periodically but the issue initially seemed to be that you couldn't plug the phone into the USB port before starting the vehicle, you needed to plug it in after the unit booted up. Other than that, I was very happy with the unit once the software update came out to fix that issue.  You also had more options in tuning the music and you could verbally reply to text messages if you so choose. It had Pandora, Waze and other apps you could use on the unit once connected to the phone and your Kenwood weblink app was activated.

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Contact mvi. They can add apple car play if im not mistaken to the oem headunit.  They updated my unit and i have it now

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I have had good luck with Alpine head units in the past.

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2 hours ago, Darksky said:

I have had good luck with Alpine head units in the past.

Agreed, I've always ran Alpine or Kenwood.

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another vote for contacting MVI to get an upgrade OEM headunit with car play.  way cheaper than going aftermarket and all functions still work.  well the steering wheel mute and answer do not work when phone is plugged in, but works with blue tooth, I believe you need to do a cluster update to get that working as well.  I recently did this to my Silverado and love it. 

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I have a 2014 1500 LTZ and was looking to upgrade to something with Apple car play. 
I took it to a local shop this week and got my truck back yesterday and I’m disappointed with what they put in, on my drive home unit shut off twice and is laggy. Was a pioneer brand unit. I’m going to be requesting they remove it, Any suggestions what I can swap too? I’d like to retain my factory mic and usb functions as I lost those with the unit they recommended.
I was looking at this not sure on quality though. Thanks! 
 
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stereo-12-1-Android-Vertical-Screen-Chevrolet-Silverado-2014-2018-Nav-Radio-GPS/173781842298?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3Dbdb1e22d8bb44a738f1309a120affa2d%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D282219624979%26itm%3D173781842298&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276

put it back to stock buy an hmi and radio module and then u have stock carplay, pm me for more info


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+1 on stock. The alternative would be the Alpine 10" (old) or 9" (new) version. At one point they were blowing out the 10" version and could be had for sub 1k, but still pricy.

Stay far away from that android unit.

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  • Similar Content

    • By wottenad
      We've been waiting a long time to announce this: we have finally started receiving the Linkswell GEN3 "T-Style" 12.1" tablet replacement radio for GM trucks (part number TS-GMPU12-1RR1)! Having seen a prototype version of this unit at the SEMA show last November, it's amazing to finally see the finished production piece:


       
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      To make a long story shorter for you TLDR-er's, the Zip Kit is now installed and the shifting concerns seem alleviated.  I'll give it another couple weeks to make a full conclusion, however.  But the big story I wanted to share was about a mistake I made during the installation of the Zip Kit...but I imagine it could happen during any valve body refurbishment, upgrade, or maintenance.  It has nothing to do with the Zip Kit itself.  The Zip Kit was well manufactured and has fantastic instructions...with pictures too!  The Zip Kit installation - plus a desire to inspect and clean all valves - simply gave me the opportunity to make the massive screw-up which occurred.  So to help out fellow techs or DIY'ers who may experience this in the future, I have attached a summary pictorial explaining what I did and what it caused...along with the now-obvious solution. 
       
      Initial Start-up and Test Post-Cleaning, Assembly, Refurbishment - aka, "The Crucible":
       
      What should have taken just about 3 hours to complete ended up taking 4 days.  After putting everything back together the first time, I started the vehicle.  I left it in Park for about five minutes.  No unusual noises, no "Check Engine" lights.  Normal oil pressure, normal slow rise in trans fluid temperature.  Normal idle RPM's.  I shifted from Park to Reverse and back to Park - allowing about 3 seconds between each move.  This was an effort to flush air out of the veins/pump which may have accumulated during the overnight hours (I started this job in the evening but didn't re-install the valve body and other components until the next morning.)  I then shifted from Park to Drive.  I expected - as one usually does - to feel the torque and the car's desire to move forward.  But no, there was no forward engagement whatsoever.  I then shifted back to Park and let it sit for a minute.  I shifted to Reverse - no reverse engagement.  I left it in Reverse for 5 to 10 seconds thinking it will engage once the 'air is pushed out from the pump and valve body veins'...and that's when the Check Engine light came on.  Silly me.  I put it back in Park.  I figured, let's try this again...maybe it was a solar flare or perhaps CNN is talking about Mueller again...  Nope - same bad result - no forward, no reverse, not even the sound of it trying to engage.  From Drive I was moving the shift lever back towards Park...and during that time I stopped briefly at Neutral.  A faint squeal noise was observed from the transmission.  Knowing that a squeal noise coming from a transmission is not SKOOKUM (h/t Ave on YouTube - one of my all-time favorites), I left it in Park and shut the engine off.
       
      Exhausted, bewildered, and full of self-doubt, I removed the valve body and TEHCM two more times.  For anyone familiar with accessing the transmission valve body on a 2007 - 2013 Yukon (and perhaps 2014 and beyond), you know it's not easy.  Each time, the catalytic converters need to be moved / dropped.  This means the O2 sensors need to be removed, the front drive shaft needs to be undone and moved off to the side a bit, the front right wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed, etc. etc. ....in addition to draining the trans fluid oil and making a mess of your garage floor and yourself.  I did this without a lift...only a jack and jack stands...making me ache and strain in ways I haven't felt in years.  Note to DIY's...it takes the catalytic converters a bit more time than you think in order to cool down to a manageable level...ask me how I know. 
       
      Each time I went over the instructions for the Zip Kit step-by-step to make sure I put the pieces where they were supposed to go.  Each time I questioned most everything about how I put things back together - were the seals matching up correctly?  Were the electronics / wires completely connected?  Were there any green fuzzies on the main connector going from the outside of the trans and into the transmission case?  Were there any cut or broken wires I didn't notice or failed to inspect?  Each time I examined every piece that I had touched and questioned everything!...or so I thought.  The struggle was REAL!   Approximately 8 liters of new Dexron VI ATF - along with both hands, the right side of my jaw, and my lower back - were abused in the process of this event.  
       
      The Cause:
       
      In short, during the re-assembly of valves which I had removed for cleaning, I put two of them in backwards.  When they were first re-installed, they seemed to fit and it appeared how I re-installed them was exactly how I took them out.  But I was incredibly wrong on both points.  It wasn't until I noticed the ATSG manual's depiction of the valve body assembly diagrams - and comparing them to how I had re-installed my valves - that I finally realized the reasons for DTC's p0777 and p0700 suddenly appearing.  
       
      For SEO, (but explained in the pictorial), I'll simply say that DTC p0777 is "Clutch Pressure Control (CPC) Solenoid 2, Stuck ON" and was the only result post-assembly and start-up.  However in the end there was nothing wrong with solenoid 2 whatsoever.  The TCM/ECU only threw that code because the situation matched the DTC p0777 trigger conditions.  At that point I was really close to spending ~ $600 bucks on a new TEHCM...and that's when I noticed I had installed Clutch Select Valve 2 and Clutch Select Valve 3 backwards.  THANK THE GOOD PEOPLE AT ATSG WHO MAKE GOOD TRANSMISSION MANUALS..SPECIFICALLY THE DIAGRAMS (if only they were in color, btw.)  Now getting people to read carefully...a different story , of course. 
       
      I couldn't find too much on DTC P0777, so I suppose it's rare.  But if you ever come across this DTC or other "solenoid stuck", "solenoid failed" types of codes - and especially if you've just completed a refurbishing / cleaning / Zip-Kit installation on your valve body - take triple notice of how you reassembled and re-installed those valves....ALL OF THEM!
       

       
      Thanks for your time, 
      Jeff
      Alpharetta, GA
       
    • By Darksky
      I’m starting to consider a replacement battery for my 2015 6.2L High Country 1500. It has the 94R type battery, I believe.  
       
      I have looked over the threads I could find with the search function without any specific results.  One type that came up in a few of the threads is the XS Power brand, but there is not a recommendation for which series is most desirable. I also wasn’t able to find one in 94R.
       
      it seems that the majority of newer batteries have lower CCA than I recall in older “heavy duty” batteries. I’ve bought 1000 CCA batteries in the past, but now 800 -850 seems to be about the highest. The new Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries may be more efficient and therefore can operate reliably with less CCAs, I don’t know. My truck has to be relied upon in rural, cold weather situations, I need a strong, long life battery.
       
      That said,  my questions are;
       
      Exactly which replacement battery have you used? 
      What is good/bad about it and why?
      What would recommend for an extreme duty battery?
      What else would you recommend replacing?
      -I don’t know if these trucks need the “Big 3” replacement
      -my alternator is functioning within normal limits, but I’m open to replacement options as needed.
      -my cables seem clean, undamaged and corrosion free.
       
    • By suhmahdee1
      My parked 2018 got swiped light bumper damage... insurance quote is over 1200 want to upgrade the bumper in the process... but cant tell what looks good on a stock truck... any suggestions?
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