Z71 Rancho shock replacement options?

[ForestryGuy]

With these Bilstein or Fox leveling kits are you seeing a true 2" (or so) of level or are you seeing slightly more or less. From what I have experienced, companies produce these not only to lift the front end for cosmetic reasons but also to compensate for a heavier bumper/winch combo. For example, when I lifted my Frontier with a 2" puck I actually got 2.75" of lift, which dropped down to about 2" after a heavier bumper/winch was installed. 

[Grumpy Bear]

10 hours ago, HeySkippyDog said:

I'm not quite sure I buy this. Yes, an engineer most surely did exactly as you say in the initial design. But to say it cuts travel in half just can't be true. The spring is preloaded, but the lower end of the shock still has travel to accommodate. Nothing is being put in a major tensile load, and surely I don't see a 2" level putting a significant amount of stress on the ball joints. Do you have a free body diagram to support this? I'm not being argumentative, it's merely a question.

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No I do not have a drawing to 'support' this, I have a tape measure a jack, access to a spring compressor and a knowledge of geometry. 

 

Measure the free extended length and compressed length of the damper with the coils removed. Assemble and install. Sitting on the ground measure the exposed shaft length to the same point of reference used in the first step. (just above the weld) Record. Measure from spindle center to fender lip. Record. Jack it up to clear the wheel and repeat. Divided the second by the first. Note the distance visually between the UCA and the rebound stop in both positions. You can figure it out from there. I'm not going to prove it to you. That's just an argument waiting to happen supported on opinion. Do the exercise. Do the math. Prove it to yourself. 

 

I didn't say a 2" lift is a ball joint killer. I said cutting the stops that protect them is and implied that people do this to regain rebound travel.

 

Tie a wire tie around the shaft with the truck at rest and push it up against the body of the damper. Drive for a week or so over your expected terrain and directly measure the amount of compression you are actually using. If your truck is dampened correctly it should be using 90 percent of the compression range. When you have a spring and dampening set up that is holding the damper at mid stroke at rest and using 90 of both rebound and compression at a speed 90 percent of your target speed you have it well sorted. 

 

OR you can call someone like Ben at Filthy Motorsports who designs, sells and services all the majors and get pretty much the same information with videos. Tell him I sent you. 

 

 

[TXGREEK]

With these Bilstein or Fox leveling kits are you seeing a true 2" (or so) of level or are you seeing slightly more or less. From what I have experienced, companies produce these not only to lift the front end for cosmetic reasons but also to compensate for a heavier bumper/winch combo. For example, when I lifted my Frontier with a 2" puck I actually got 2.75" of lift, which dropped down to about 2" after a heavier bumper/winch was installed. 

Sent from above

[TXGREEK]

It’s recommended changing UCA’s with a 2.5” level or higher. These Fox 2.0’s are out of the Box at 2”, slightly higher than the Bilsteins but better quality and ride handling characteristics than the Bilsteins


Sent from above

[HeySkippyDog]

No I do not have a drawing to 'support' this, I have a tape measure a jack, access to a spring compressor and a knowledge of geometry. 
 
Measure the free extended length and compressed length of the damper with the coils removed. Assemble and install. Sitting on the ground measure the exposed shaft length to the same point of reference used in the first step. (just above the weld) Record. Measure from spindle center to fender lip. Record. Jack it up to clear the wheel and repeat. Divided the second by the first. Note the distance visually between the UCA and the rebound stop in both positions. You can figure it out from there. I'm not going to prove it to you. That's just an argument waiting to happen supported on opinion. Do the exercise. Do the math. Prove it to yourself. 
 
I didn't say a 2" lift is a ball joint killer. I said cutting the stops that protect them is and implied that people do this to regain rebound travel.
 
Tie a wire tie around the shaft with the truck at rest and push it up against the body of the damper. Drive for a week or so over your expected terrain and directly measure the amount of compression you are actually using. If your truck is dampened correctly it should be using 90 percent of the compression range. When you have a spring and dampening set up that is holding the damper at mid stroke at rest and using 90 of both rebound and compression at a speed 90 percent of your target speed you have it well sorted. 
 
OR you can call someone like Ben at Filthy Motorsports who designs, sells and services all the majors and get pretty much the same information with videos. Tell him I sent you. 
 
 

You honestly expect me to believe I only have 4 inches of travel from the start?

Have you actually put your truck up on jackstands?

This just doesn't add up. 2" leveling does not hurt the truck any or make it ride rough.

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[HeySkippyDog]

If you actually believe a 2" deep pothole is excessively jarring with a leveled suspension or not, a speed bump or rumble strips must send you to the chiropractor.

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[Grumpy Bear]

57 minutes ago, HeySkippyDog said:

1.) You honestly expect me to believe I only have 4 inches of travel from the start?

2.) Have you actually put your truck up on jackstands?

3.) his just doesn't add up. 2" leveling does not hurt the truck any or make it ride rough.

 

1.) Frankly, I don't care what you believe and I'm wondering about your reading comprehension and math skills. I said 4" of shock travel. I also said the leverage ratio is 2:1 meaning you have roughly 8 inches of wheel travel. I also told you to MEASURE IT YOURSELF and not take my word for it. Even told you how to do it. Need more proof. Here's my private correspondence with Dane. The damper strokes what it strokes. You belief has zip to do with it. 

 

The 25001-148 is a 2.5 coil over that strokes 4.335”.  Full extended is 19.624” and full compressed is 15.289”..... 

 

Dane J. Larsen

Sales / Customer Service

King Shock Technology, Inc.

Phone: (714) 530-8701

Fax: (714) 530-8702

www.kingshocks.com

 

2.) Son I have a full on King custom coil over system specified by Filthy Motorsports and tuned by me. I have had her to the bones and back. Every nut an bolt in all four corners. Twice. Three times out back. Sort of a waste to buy a tunable shock and not tune it.   

 

3.) Pay attention to EVERYTHING not just what you want to hear. I said IF you have 1 inch of rebound remaining ON THE GROUND at the shock  that a hole MORE THAN 2 inches deep will force the truck to FALL into the hole as the system tops out. The math isn't that hard. 

 

Thought you weren't looking for an argument? Kind' a looks like you are. Why? What will you gain? 

 

 

[HeySkippyDog]

1.) Frankly, I don't care what you believe and I'm wondering about your reading comprehension and math skills. I said 4" of shock travel. I also said the leverage ratio is 2:1 meaning you have roughly 8 inches of wheel travel. I also told you to MEASURE IT YOURSELF and not take my word for it. Even told you how to do it. Need more proof. Here's my private correspondence with Dane. The damper strokes what it strokes. You belief has zip to do with it. 
 

The 25001-148 is a 2.5 coil over that strokes 4.335”.  Full extended is 19.624” and full compressed is 15.289”..... 

 

Dane J. Larsen

Sales / Customer Service

King Shock Technology, Inc.

Phone: (714) 530-8701

Fax: (714) 530-8702

www.kingshocks.com

 
2.) Son I have a full on King custom coil over system specified by Filthy Motorsports and tuned by me. I have had her to the bones and back. Every nut an bolt in all four corners. Twice. Three times out back. Sort of a waste to buy a tunable shock and not tune it.   
 
3.) Pay attention to EVERYTHING not just what you want to hear. I said IF you have 1 inch of rebound remaining ON THE GROUND at the shock  that a hole MORE THAN 2 inches deep will force the truck to FALL into the hole as the system tops out. The math isn't that hard. 
 
Thought you weren't looking for an argument? Kind' a looks like you are. Why? What will you gain? 
 
 

I'm not arguing. I hit 2" potholes all the time and don't even notice them, and didn't notice them with my leveled 14 either.

2" isn't much. Roads aren't perfect.

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[HeySkippyDog]

It certainly wasn't a "JAR".

But make sure you talk to your doctor about your spine. Seems a little soft.

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[Grumpy Bear]

Whatever. 

[HeySkippyDog]

Have you actually driven a K2 RCSB with a stock suspension?  

I'm on my 2nd K2, actually. I leveled my first with 5100s, my second I've left alone.

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[HeySkippyDog]

Can't say a little 2" pothole was a major event in either truck. If your suspension only goes 4" before a major impulse, I think you have a problem.

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[Grumpy Bear]

2 minutes ago, HeySkippyDog said:

I'm on my 2nd K2, actually. I leveled my first with 5100s, my second I've left alone.

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You have a habit of not answering the questions that are being asked. Evading the facts. 

 

[HeySkippyDog]

You have a habit of not answering the questions that are being asked. Evading the facts. 
 

I think I've answered your questions, I think you need to take your truck to the dealer to address your short travel issues. A 2" depression isn't notable in my experience.

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[Grumpy Bear]

You need to see a doctor. You have "eye" (I) trouble.  "I think" isn't evidence of anything except that you don't. 

 

I repeat, WHATEVER.