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Z71 Rancho shock replacement options?

VictorLin0725

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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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Posted

Alternatively, if you have spacers for leveling, buy the Bilstein 4600 and install it the same way as if it were the 5100 with the snap ring at the highest setting. The end result is the same. The spring is just preloaded to give a 2" lift whether via spacer or the snap ring.

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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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The major difference between 1500s suspension-wise is really just the shocks. Your front springs are selected based on engine, since there is a weight difference between the 4.3, 5.3, and 6.2. I don't know if cab size is also a factor, but I do know in the old days that GM paired front springs with a truck or SUV based on engine size.

The Cadillac-esque float of the Z85 has been enjoyable, but once the shocks are done, I will be switching to Bilstein just as I did on my 2014. They are well made and durable. My stock '14 Z60s made it to 105k but almost all of those miles were flat highway, so I did not get the typical 40-50k shock failure.

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

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Posted
3 minutes ago, HeySkippyDog said:

The major difference between 1500s suspension-wise is really just the shocks. Your front springs are selected based on engine, since there is a weight difference between the 4.3, 5.3, and 6.2. I don't know if cab size is also a factor, but I do know in the old days that GM paired front springs with a truck or SUV based on engine size.

The Cadillac-esque float of the Z85 has been enjoyable, but once the shocks are done, I will be switching to Bilstein just as I did on my 2014. They are well made and durable. My stock '14 Z60s made it to 105k but almost all of those miles were flat highway, so I did not get the typical 40-50k shock failure.

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If the engineer did his job correctly that spring will put the shock in the center of it's travel sitting static at wet curb weight. Shocks that use an adjustable threaded system or a series of snap ring groves in the body and use the factory spring to achieve a lift move the shock away from its centered preference. A 1500 has an A arm leverage ratio of 2:1 so a two inch lift by this means has the truck sitting 1 inch high of center in the shocks travel. 8 inches of wheel travel is 4 inches of shock travel split equally, hopefully or 2 inches either side of center. Preload of  1 inch for a 2 inch lift cuts the droop (rebound range) by half. 

 

Ever hit a chuck hole deeper than 2"? If you do and have given away half your droop the spring will extend the shock until it hits the droop limiter then lock out an the truck falls into the hole. JAR! Just a thought maybe worth a thought. Oh you cut out the limiters to avoid this? Great, the next stop is ball joint range. Snap! 

 

HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

Posted
Posted
If the engineer did his job correctly that spring will put the shock in the center of it's travel sitting static at wet curb weight. Shocks that use an adjustable threaded system or a series of snap ring groves in the body and use the factory spring to achieve a lift move the shock away from its centered preference. A 1500 has an A arm leverage ratio of 2:1 so a two inch lift by this means has the truck sitting 1 inch high of center in the shocks travel. 8 inches of wheel travel is 4 inches of shock travel split equally, hopefully or 2 inches either side of center. Preload of  1 inch for a 2 inch lift cuts the droop (rebound range) by half. 
 
Ever hit a chuck hole deeper than 2"? If you do and have given away half your droop the spring will extend the shock until it hits the droop limiter then lock out an the truck falls into the hole. JAR! Just a thought maybe worth a thought. Oh you cut out the limiters to avoid this? Great, the next stop is ball joint range. Snap! 
 
I'm not quite sure I buy this. Yes, an engineer most surely did exactly as you say in the initial design. But to say it cuts travel in half just can't be true. The spring is preloaded, but the lower end of the shock still has travel to accommodate. Nothing is being put in a major tensile load, and surely I don't see a 2" level putting a significant amount of stress on the ball joints. Do you have a free body diagram to support this? I'm not being argumentative, it's merely a question.

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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Will the Fox 2.0s feel too soft and floaty on the road?


No, lots of people off-road with them. Easy replacement. YouTube them.


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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

Btw, the leveling Bilstein 5100’s raise your front end 1.85”, not fully 2”

 

 

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Knowstress Enthusiast

Knowstress

Posted
Posted

I paid the money and went with icon 2.5 coil overs. Ride is much better than stock. It gives you more travel and floats through dips and bumps. If not pay a litter more money and just go king coil over. 

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I paid the money and went with icon 2.5 coil overs. Ride is much better than stock. It gives you more travel and floats through dips and bumps. If not pay a litter more money and just go king coil over. 


It’s also “recommended” that you change your UCA’s when doing leveling with 2.5 coil overs versus 2.0. That’s why I just did the 4.5” CST Lift instead, added CST 2.5 coil overs and rear 2.0 piggybacks. Excellent angles and ride quality, still running stock UCA’s.


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bsprtsgrp Enthusiast

bsprtsgrp

Posted
Posted

I replaced my stock Z71 Rancho's with the Rancho quickLIFT Loaded for the fronts that adds a 2" lift and Rancho RS9000XL for the Rear Suspension. You can "dial-in" your desired ride with these.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I replaced my stock Z71 Rancho's with the Rancho quickLIFT Loaded for the fronts that adds a 2" lift and Rancho RS9000XL for the Rear Suspension. You can "dial-in" your desired ride with these.

 

Years ago, had them on a 4Runner when they first came out along with the in cab push button system. Though it was a great idea, the system was a disaster, leaked non stop no matter what was done. Back then Rancho was Rancho and a privately held company, not today. When you’re ready and want a superior product to the rancho and OEM Shocks I’d look at Fox 2.0’s, Kings and CST’s Coil Overs. Smooth and custom gas tuned giving excellent ride quality.

 

 

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spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted

My current set up is the stock Rancho Z71 package with a RC 2" leveling kit...I have a hint over 50k miles on them...and so far I am in the minority in they dont seem terrible to me...really rough bumps going down the road, I'll get a happy rear end, but the front seem pretty good...

 

having said that, when it is time to replace them, I will be going to the bilsteins....my question (I'm sure this is a stupid question)...but since it isn't a full level...and since I already have the spacer level kit...would it be better to keep the level kit in place and not 'max out' the shocks ...would that not also give more travel for the shocks?

 

talk me off a ledge here...what am I missing?

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
My current set up is the stock Rancho Z71 package with a RC 2" leveling kit...I have a hint over 50k miles on them...and so far I am in the minority in they dont seem terrible to me...really rough bumps going down the road, I'll get a happy rear end, but the front seem pretty good...
 
having said that, when it is time to replace them, I will be going to the bilsteins....my question (I'm sure this is a stupid question)...but since it isn't a full level...and since I already have the spacer level kit...would it be better to keep the level kit in place and not 'max out' the shocks ...would that not also give more travel for the shocks?
 
talk me off a ledge here...what am I missing?


Nothing rides as comfortable as coil overs, wanting to keep the leveled look, jump into the Fox 2.0’s, excellent ride quality when compared to your setup. You can get them for approximately $800 for the pair. I did the 2.25” level up front, added 5100’s front and back, rode harsh. Never again will I level, but if I do it’ll be done only with Coil Overs. Superior ride quality and performance.


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VictorLin0725 Enthusiast

VictorLin0725

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Posted
13 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Nothing rides as comfortable as coil overs, wanting to keep the leveled look, jump into the Fox 2.0’s, excellent ride quality when compared to your setup. You can get them for approximately $800 for the pair. I did the 2.25” level up front, added 5100’s front and back, rode harsh. Never again will I level, but if I do it’ll be done only with Coil Overs. Superior ride quality and performance.


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From what I hear Fox seems to be the ideal option here. Gotta see if my wallet agrees though. Anyone know the differences between the Coil-over IFP, Coil-over Resevoir, and smooth body IFP? Also, 2.0 vs 2.5 is just the height of the shock right?

 

Thanks

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
From what I hear Fox seems to be the ideal option here. Gotta see if my wallet agrees though. Anyone know the differences between the Coil-over IFP, Coil-over Resevoir, and smooth body IFP? Also, 2.0 vs 2.5 is just the height of the shock right?

 

Thanks

 

First off, doing 2.5” coil overs will require you to change out your UCA’s. Unless you’re going through a lot of harsh washboard like driving I wouldn’t worry about resi’s especially if worried about cost. Though I’ve got rear piggyback 2.0 resi’s on mine just because they’re supposed to cool better and they look awesome too lol.

 

Front setup

Coil Overs

bf9227572fd776bff59ede396e3222b9.jpg

 

Here is my rear

df4e7c92c215cbacac3fc02496206072.jpg

 

 

 

 

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