Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Well, there's your problem!  Chinese food on Christmas Eve?  
Yea. It's a tradition. Chinese food on Christmas Eve and then the normal boring shit (turkey/ham) on Christmas.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Posted
18 hours ago, Obscenejesster said:

Yea. It's a tradition. Chinese food on Christmas Eve and then the normal boring shit (turkey/ham) on Christmas.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

That’s graditude every mom and dad loves to enjoy. My sons are perfectly content with ham and turkey for Christmas and the next three days . At least the vibration in your car can help your intestines shake all of that stuff through.

Happy New Year ! ! 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
That’s graditude every mom and dad loves to enjoy. My sons are perfectly content with ham and turkey for Christmas and the next three days . At least the vibration in your car can help your intestines shake all of that stuff through.
Happy New Year ! ! 
 
I don't have the vibration issue. Only issue I had with mine is the shocks going bad at 24k miles.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Obscenejesster said:

I don't have the vibration issue. Only issue I had with mine is the shocks going bad at 24k miles.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

Sorry, I thought everyone had the vibration problem.  Have a great day. I am having left over ham fried in with my eggs this morning fyi?. 

Posted
Sorry, I thought everyone had the vibration problem.  Have a great day. I am having left over ham fried in with my eggs this morning fyi[emoji4]. 
Left over from a week ago? Damn.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Posted
7 minutes ago, Obscenejesster said:

Left over from a week ago? Damn.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

Isn’t it supposed to be green? 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I didn't rear all 786 pages but the issue in the rear is resolved with the gm part under warranty. Long story short a 2* shim and a trans mount for me. The issue is the factory specs are .5* to .75* differences in pinion angles. But both yokes should be parallel. Yes there are some driveshafts that are bad as well as shocks that are recalled. Also note all the aluminum shafts are crap, even the dealer tech said Upgrade ASAP. 

 

I will order caltracs once the weather warms up that will help.    

Posted
On 12/21/2017 at 10:46 PM, Dope said:

Hi guys,

 

Traded in my 2000 Silverado on a 2018. Double cab, LT Z71, 4WD, optional 20" wheels (5 star) with goodyear SR-As. It vibrates on the highway, starting around 50mph and peaking around 70-75 I'd say. I have been reading this thread but after realizing it is nearly 800 pages does anyone have a link to a wiki or an FAQ or some sort of summary on the issue? I'm seeing possibly tires, driveshaft, frame, shocks, etc.. I have an appointment on Tuesday to bring it in and I'd like to be as informed as possible. I already have a set of Duratracs to put on it, and they will be road-force balanced (have an excellent shop available). I'm going to wait since I don't want the dealership pointing to the new tires (which are not on the truck yet) as a possible culprit.

 

Many thanks in advance!

 

Dope

 

Edit: just noticed that this is my first post, even though I've been a member since 2009!

Just as an update, I put some good tires on the truck (Goodyear Duratracs instead of those awful SRAs) and I had it balanced at a competent shop with good equipment (top of the line Hunter road force balancer). My vibration is gone now, thankfully!

 

Now I'm trying to decide how badly to roast my dealership for wasting my time and telling me there was no vibration when I brought it in for service.

 

Dope

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Bikemobile said:

Same here, a set of duratracs and road force balance fixed mine too. 

I've had the 18" Duratracs since day one. (they came with the truck) I've never had the 'shake' many folks speak of.

Posted
On 1/14/2018 at 2:36 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

I didn't rear all 786 pages but the issue in the rear is resolved with the gm part under warranty. Long story short a 2* shim and a trans mount for me. The issue is the factory specs are .5* to .75* differences in pinion angles. But both yokes should be parallel. Yes there are some driveshafts that are bad as well as shocks that are recalled. Also note all the aluminum shafts are crap, even the dealer tech said Upgrade ASAP. 

 

I will order caltracs once the weather warms up that will help.    

Do you have the part numbers? If so would you please post them. 

Posted (edited)

(P/N 23469809 – Qty 2) Note free under warranty read bulletin

 

Also you can read the Bulletin Helps understand where GM thinks the issues are. There are other bulletins for trans,converter, program(8speed) and also a rear shock recall. 

 

https://gm.oemdtc.com/753/vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

Edited by 1SLOW1500
add
  • Like 1
Posted
(P/N 23469809 – Qty 2) Note free under warranty read bulletin
 
Also you can read the Bulletin Helps understand where GM thinks the issues are. There are other bulletins for trans,converter, program(8speed) and also a rear shock recall. 
 
https://gm.oemdtc.com/753/vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra



Great link, thank you. On a side note, I’ve been through this and it’s a hassle and a half. Back and forth. Test drive after test drive. Racking up mileage on my truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

It's a real bad issue if it is more than just angles. The gm parts are free or less than $50 out of pocket. 

Oh and there is also a gm bulletin about shim on the trans. My dealer said we have done and seen many of these. 

Mine isn't bad as some. 66-75 but very light and any road change or on off gas it goes away same with turning. Than means it is only off by a little. Than means shims can make it worst. So they check all angles then pick between axles shims or trans shim. 

Again I must replace my driveshaft with a performance one but want the issue resolved first. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...