Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

chevy2tuff2006 Enthusiast

chevy2tuff2006

Posted
Posted

Well, after ten days with my Ram, here's my opinion of both trucks.

Things I liked about the Silverado:

1. smooth engine, even accelleration, power at low RPM

2. good trans

3. good mileage with the 5.3 (22 combined)

Things I like about the Ram:

1. superior quality interior

2. very smooth ride even with the factory 22" wheels

3. did I mention the smooth ride

4. what a smooth ride

5. port injection so I don't have to think about how much carbon is accumulating on the valves like the direct injection Chevy

6. superior electronics

7. much bigger bang for the buck options and standard equipment wise

also don't forget that in 3 years it will start rusting away on you...a 3-5 yr old dodge looks like a 10-15 yr old chevy/gmc.... just saying

  • Like 1
  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

That's great so you are off to the Fiat forum then... Thanks for the update

Yep, I'm off. With no squeeks, no rattles, I can actually read the displays on my dash and Chrysler actually had their suppliers put all the resistors in so all my A/C & radio lights work too. Bye.

  • Like 2
mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted (edited)

also don't forget that in 3 years it will start rusting away on you...a 3-5 yr old dodge looks like a 10-15 yr old chevy/gmc.... just saying

Unlikely. I live in Souther AZ. We don't have rust. But it is nice not to have a 2014 truck that sounds like a 1954 truck when I make turns.

Edited by mjb4450
  • Like 1
20L8TSierra24 Senior Enthusiast

20L8TSierra24

Posted
Posted (edited)

Unlikely. I live in Souther AZ. We don't have rust. But it is nice not to have a 2014 truck that sounds like a 1954 truck when I make turns.

Sir, this is a GM site and you have a Fiat truck now... I'm sorry that you had problems with your GM but we need to stay on topic here. Hope the Ram treats you well. Oh BTW, people are here to try and help each other and I do believe you're just trolling now... If you would like to help out and offer suggestions, you're more than welcome. Please don't come in here just to brag about your Ram. Like another said, there is a Ram forum for that.. Edited by 20Bowtie14
tlake84 Enthusiast

tlake84

Posted
Posted

Hopefully those RAM's don't spring a manifold leak (20,000 miles) and their plastic play-school key's don't get stuck in the ignition like my co-workers did! His is a 2013 5.7.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Calm down the man is sharing his experience with us. I may even decide to trade for a Ram. Guess what though? I'll still remain a moderator here because it's a great site. Has been a lot of help with my 02 since I've been a member and I'll continue to frequent the site.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
mikegmi2 Enthusiast

mikegmi2

Posted
Posted

New Chevy owner (2015 Chevy LT Crew, 5.3L V8) - just picked up truck from dealer yesterday. Test ride went ok, didn't notice any vibration. Felt a bit of a vibration at 35-40mph, thought maybe its the wheel balance.. then I find this thread. Oh boy.. I thought I was moving away from Ford to a more reliable design that's been proven. Did not expect this.

 

I've read a bit of the thread (but not all 356 pages!!)

 

Is there a summary of what to do? I've seen tires, driveshaft balance, pinion angle, tie rods, rear end.. etc listed as being root cause but is there a summary of what the fixes are? Does it depend on the truck?

 

The vibration is not that bad and I can feather the gas to help it. It actually drives great at highway speeds. Love the truck otherwise. A question for the community: should I live with a slight vibration or do I bring back to the dealer to fix? Will they make it worse? Should I wait until GM figures it out?

 

If I do have a problem down the road, I want to make sure that I've documented the fact that I'm having the same issue. That's one argument for taking it to the dealer.

Your problem sounds like a bad rear end. Specifically the ring pinion gears backlash out of spec. The gap is too big on many rear axles, which generates a shake/rumble at speeds below 50mph...especially noticeable when you are decelerating. Take it to dealer, they will measure backlash, and order you a new rear axle assembly.

  • Like 1
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

I'm going to post a new question, anyone have issues with their transmission? My uncle bought a new LTZ Crew 4x4 with the 5.3 and he is saying that his is very "clunky" and it will randomly jerk when in a gear change, predominantly at highway speeds. I'm unaware of any trans. issues like that, he said it basically jerks the entire truck and throws him forward.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

I'm going to post a new question, anyone have issues with their transmission? My uncle bought a new LTZ Crew 4x4 with the 5.3 and he is saying that his is very "clunky" and it will randomly jerk when in a gear change, predominantly at highway speeds. I'm unaware of any trans. issues like that, he said it basically jerks the entire truck and throws him forward.

Yup, happens to me all the time. According to my dealer, it's "normal operation" for these 6 speeds cause they're "funky". Yeah, that gives me a lot of confidence GM. I love my 02 silverado but these k2 trucks... I'm really losing hope in mine

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

lots of people have clunky transmission issues, a quick search will give you lots of results. For some of us clamping rear springs and or tightening the rear u-bolts has helped.

  • Like 1
curver900 Enthusiast

curver900

Posted
Posted

so with about 2 seconds of looking I found this....

 

"So after reading several posts between a few different sights it seems that the problem I have is caused by the rear mount on the transfer/transmission case. Good news, right? wrong I explained everything, crawled under the truck and showed the movement with in the driveline and explained that several people have replaced the mount with the Ford Raptor mount which is much beefier and doesn't allow the vibration under torque. However, Ford explained to me that it makes perfect since however since the trucks are so new (even though its essentially the same driveline as previous years) Ford haven't released a TSB for this fix?? So after the 5th visit to Ford and 2.5 days of "diagnostics", (simply new tire and road force balance) they concluded that 1 more of the 4 brand new tires that were already replaced were bad and they couldn't explain it. So I asked them did you check the suspension? Nope. Check the rotors for possibly being warped? Nope. Check the driveshaft to make sure it's balanced? Nope....soooo....2.5 days and 1 tire on the 5th visit!......Unbelievable customer service! To top it off surprise surprise the shudder/vibration is still there!"

 

now there hasn't been as large of an out pooring in the ford space yet... but starting to sound alot like the GM problems... I don't know what wheels/tires etc... but don't run to fast... it is possible that GM will figure this out which they did for me (rearend and tires)... and Ford seems to have some quick answers but so did GM at first... maybe they are all using the same outsourced vendors??? makes you wonder....

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted

Unlikely. I live in Souther AZ. We don't have rust. But it is nice not to have a 2014 truck that sounds like a 1954 truck when I make turns.

I think you hit a hot button this whole thread is starting to vibrate ;)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted

haha yea, If only I could just jump any and all speeds with a vibration.... wait they all do, I'm fully regretting this truck right now and wish I just got the Ram

I know the feeling and I'm so sorry your going through what I did and many others are now . There is answer though it's never to late to get a Ram . One of my best decisions I've ever made .

Enforcer Enthusiast

Enforcer

Posted
Posted

I'm going to post a new question, anyone have issues with their transmission? My uncle bought a new LTZ Crew 4x4 with the 5.3 and he is saying that his is very "clunky" and it will randomly jerk when in a gear change, predominantly at highway speeds. I'm unaware of any trans. issues like that, he said it basically jerks the entire truck and throws him forward.

Mine had that too !

 

Also it would increase 300 to 400 RPM's before it would upshift, again " Normal Opperation " deemed by GM

the excessive noise from the injectors and of course the vibration where they spent over two months and over

1,000 miles and never did figure it out.

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Mine had that too !

 

Also it would increase 300 to 400 RPM's before it would upshift, again " Normal Opperation " deemed by GM

the excessive noise from the injectors and of course the vibration where they spent over two months and over

1,000 miles and never did figure it out.

It's really sad to see this happening

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • TrueBlue
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...