Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just picked up my truck from my local GM dealership to deal with the flaking undercoat/rust issue. Not only did they clean it and respray the entire underside of the truck, but they also re-sprayed the interior fabric protection as well. There was nothing wrong with this, but they decided to do it. Thought they handled this issue very well. They think the flaking/rusting may have started when someone put the truck on a hoist while the spray had initially just been applied; could have been at the dealership or factory, they don't know. Doesn't matter - They made things right!

Before and after pics?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Looks like they are just spraying over the rust? I'm a little skeptical that the shops are cleaning the metal, prepping it, and then spraying.

 

I hope I'm wrong..

Posted

Looks like they are just spraying over the rust? I'm a little skeptical that the shops are cleaning the metal, prepping it, and then spraying.

 

I hope I'm wrong..

 

 

They sent it to a local company to clean and prep the metal prior to re-spraying it. The first image I posted was the "before" shot, and the other three were the "after."

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

They sent it to a local company to clean and prep the metal prior to re-spraying it. The first image I posted was the "before" shot, and the other three were the "after."

That's a little more reassuring. I did the Krown rust protection on my 2016, and opted into the dealership corrosion kit - because it was the only way they would cover the paint. I'll keep everyone posted as I live in the worst climate ever where we use excessive amounts of sand and sand on the roads here.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone find a DIY solution for folks out of warranty. What product are people using? I'm not going to take the bed off.

Posted

Do you folks have success with the Nox-Rust for touching up spots? I'm proud of my '15 frame, it looks great after 2 VT winters. (My 2010 frame was completely peeling and rusting all over by 30k miles) The only trouble spots are from where the dealership puts it on the lift. I'm thinking about spot sanding the rust and either spraying oil, chassis saver, or getting some Nox-Rust. Wonder what the best option is?

Posted

Had the local dealer redo mine. They did the frame and that looks nice but all the suspension parts still look crappy. Better that it was though, I don't plan on keeping it more than a few years anyway.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I bought my 2014 a few weeks ago, 50k miles, it was bought new up North before me. I didn't even think to look under the truck until this past weekend. The whole frame is rusted or spotted with rust. Wondering what I should do about it if anything... I didn't buy it at a Chevy dealership, but could I take it to one to see what they say? It's not a new truck so I dunno if TSB or whatever applies, haha.

Edited by Jadis
Posted

I would buy a wire brush kit you attach to a cordless drill, clean off as much rust as you can, then paint over with permatex rust stopper or similar product. Then finish with a zinc infused black spray paint. You will have to do annual touchups but your frame will look brand new forever. Don't bother with replaceable components like suspension. They will be replaced eventually.

 

The Daubert NOX rust works great to touch up the frame, but spray paint is more durable against rock chips etc.

Posted

Also a putty knife works great to scrape off the existing wax garbage if it's already a lost cause to save. I can only recommend the NOX Rust 121b if you only need to touch up small portions. If the frame is a lost cause just wire brush the hell out of it and paint it

Posted

I bought my 2014 a few weeks ago, 50k miles, it was bought new up North before me. I didn't even think to look under the truck until this past weekend. The whole frame is rusted or spotted with rust. Wondering what I should do about it if anything... I didn't buy it at a Chevy dealership, but could I take it to one to see what they say? It's not a new truck so I dunno if TSB or whatever applies, haha.

I don't think it matters where it came from, it's still going to be rusty. I bought my '14 in November last year with 33k miles. Previous owner was a border patrol officer here in Texas so he always drove his govt. vehicle. Mine still had rust on the frame that I sanded off and painted with rust oleum.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What type of sanding did you do? Type of paper and what not?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...