Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Talk about unlucky. Trust me I read all these problems before I picked mine up last week and just sorta said **** it, and am hoping for the best.

 

Believe me though, I am driving around just listening or feeling, waiting for things to go wrong. In hindsight, I probably should have just bought a different truck.

 

 

Again, hoping it works out for me.

Yea, I haven't been on the site lately but I've been extremely active in this thread. I would hose clamp or bolt the adaptive valve on your exhaust open to save you the headache of the squeaky exhaust.
Posted

Several topics here and a tsb to fix.

I saw the results of the "fix" The lot boy that did the "fix" had undercoating all over the inside of the wheels plus gobs of the stuff on the white tri coat paint of a brand new silverado. No thanks.

Posted

For those that had the vibration issues fixed with tires, what kind of vibration problems did you have?

 

For me, I feel I have multiple issues, because I have some constant low frequency vibrations that feel like small rumble strips at 50mph (I feel this is steering wheel, gas pedal, floor), then a more intense pulsing vibration that happens at 65-70 (mainly feel this in gas pedal only), and finally I have a vibration that literally shakes the truck back and forth where I notice my center console/cup holders shaking left/right when I am driving at 80-85.

 

Which vibration type did the tires fix?

You likely have a bad ring gear in the differential. I had the same exact symptoms from 40 to 50 mph (max. @ 45) and gear was way out of tolerances. GM replaced and I'm as smooth as silk since...

Posted

Sierra What's that I forgot what mine looks like. 21 days straight in the shop for the 40-50 mph steering wheel vibration, they have my rear diff apart waiting for parts that they think won't fix it. Then they say GM will let them replace rear diff if all else fails.

Posted (edited)

Sierra What's that I forgot what mine looks like. 21 days straight in the shop for the 40-50 mph steering wheel vibration, they have my rear diff apart waiting for parts that they think won't fix it. Then they say GM will let them replace rear diff if all else fails.

It is indeed ironic that a properly assembled differential will usually outlive the rest of the truck without any problems or symptoms. GM apparently started buying rear axle assemblies at some point from a vendor who took manufacturing out of the US and uses people who are poorly trained to assemble these components without any real quality control. The results speak for themselves.

 

You can go to a junkyard and buy an used rear axle assembly from an old late 80's or early 90's pickup truck and chances are it will work without any problems for many years to come.

Edited by pm26
Posted

Except most 4.3's have a 3.23 differential and 3.23 isn't available with 5.3. My 5.3 doesn't have a shake and I have 3.42. When I was having service work on mine, they let me go kick around in a 4.3 with 3.23 and 31 miles on it. I have been keeping up with this thread so i wanted 2 give it a test. Right above 70 "voila". Shake and bake. This truck had Continental tires. My truck had GY (now has Bridgestone 22's. I'm still leaning towards the transmission with those who had rear ends and tires replaced and still have shakes.

Posted

2014 Silverado 1500 LT with 5.3 and 3.42(?).

Bought with 13 miles. Have had to dealership about 4 times, Each time, a tire or two was replaced and road forced balanced. some tires were road forced 2 or 3 times. Had about 2k miles a few weeks ago, Some rims were also replaced. Dealer even replaced front shocks at that time. Took a 4k miles round trip to PA. Ran at 68 mph(sweet spot for "less" vibration) on cruise control so gas pedal foot would not go to "sleep" from vibration.

All of this on Continental tires.

Waiting for return call from dealership.

I cannot understand how a tire has to be road forced balanced multiple time in less than a few hundred miles!

I'm running out of patience!

Al

 

Posted

What if gm bought horrible balancing machine and this was the cause the whole time

Posted

yes

Actually no they aren't the same the 4.3 has the regular same 8.6" ring gear 10 bolt while the 5.3 has the 9.5" ring gear semi float 14" bolt behind it that the old vortec max truck had.

Posted

Actually no they aren't the same the 4.3 has the regular same 8.6" ring gear 10 bolt while the 5.3 has the 9.5" ring gear semi float 14" bolt behind it that the old vortec max truck had.

My bad you are correct, 4.3 has 8.8, 5.3 has 9.5,

and the max trailering pack with 5.3 or 6.2 has 9.75 ring gear.

Posted

Do we have anyone here that feels slight vibrations in the steering wheel? It sure feels like a harmonic of some type. I can't imagine that I would get this much road feel from the steering.

Posted (edited)

Do we have anyone here that feels slight vibrations in the steering wheel? It sure feels like a harmonic of some type. I can't imagine that I would get this much road feel from the steering.

 

Yes me. And I can't pinpoint the cause. I suspect the tires are the problem. I noticed it mostly back in the spring and then it went away around June. Since then I haven't had any vibrations at all except for 2 specific instances driving to work in September. The fact that it comes and goes and seems to be related somewhat to the outside temperature has me leaning toward the tires. How long it sits without being driven is possibly affecting it too. The truck drives great otherwise when I don't feel the vibrations in the steering wheel.

 

I will add though in general, with the stiffer suspension on these trucks, I personally feel more of the road than I did in my 2007 Silverado and that's after driving 3 different 2014's that didn't have vibration issues. So while there are vibration problems that people are experiencing, I think the combination of the stiffer suspension and the electronic power steering together transmit road imperfections to the driver and passengers more than the GMT900's did.

 

You can see my truck specs below my avatar. I have Goodyear SR-A tires that came with the truck. As soon as they're ready to be replaced, I'm getting either Michelin AT2's or BFGoodrich T/A KO's.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

Thanks Silverado-Hareek, I guess it may be inherent to the truck.. I had a 2007 Jeep Wrangler that did not transmit this much thru the steering wheel. The harmonic is constant and feels like it could put your hand to sleep after several hours. Do these things have steering dampers/shocks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...