Shake or Vibration Issues

[Obscenejesster]

The two biggest parts are front and rear cross members, and steering knuckles. The rear got new shocks the front factory. The rear had a leaf added and blocks. Then all the other little things. So not sure if it's a specific thing or the lift as a whole took the shake away.

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Damn. A lift kit is more than I'd thought it would be.

A buddy of mine had a slight vibration (not nearly as bad as I've seen others report or show in videos) and he put after market shocks in the rear which took the vibration completely away. Said they really smoothed out the ride and it was the best $200 he ever spent on auto parts

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[Bash74]

Damn. A lift kit is more than I'd thought it would be.

A buddy of mine had a slight vibration (not nearly as bad as I've seen others report or show in videos) and he put after market shocks in the rear which took the vibration completely away. Said they really smoothed out the ride and it was the best $200 he ever spent on auto parts

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Ya, there is some stuff put into a lift and not the cheapest thing. If I never went with a lift I would have changed shocks because I have never liked the shocks that come from factory. If shocks helped your friend I say go with that plus it's not expensive. While under there I would check ubolts torque, drive shaft, just a good look over of everything

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[Obscenejesster]

Ya, there is some stuff put into a lift and not the cheapest thing. If I never went with a lift I would have changed shocks because I have never liked the shocks that come from factory. If shocks helped your friend I say go with that plus it's not expensive. While under there I would check ubolts torque, drive shaft, just a good look over of everything

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My '16 Silverado only has a very light vibration at 70+. I'm almost afraid to do anything to it and make things worse. At this point, I don't even know if it's a vibrant or just the stiff suspension picking up every little imperfection on the highway.

I did check the U-bolts a few weeks ago. They were only torqued to 45 pounds so I torqued them to 95. That in itself made the vibration even less. I have a feeling the remaining small vibration is coming from the front suspension since I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel. The vibration is so slight however that if I remove my hand from the wheel, you can't even see it vibrating.

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[EFLine]

My vibration i feel is definitely coming from the rear of the truck and have yet to do anything about it yet. This time of year is just slammed with all the holiday and year and at work. But My first plan is to replace rear shocks, though i'll do entire truck, but hoping that will fix it. Going to change one thing at a time until it gets better to see what variable solved it. 

[Obscenejesster]

My vibration i feel is definitely coming from the rear of the truck and have yet to do anything about it yet. This time of year is just slammed with all the holiday and year and at work. But My first plan is to replace rear shocks, though i'll do entire truck, but hoping that will fix it. Going to change one thing at a time until it gets better to see what variable solved it. 

How bad is yours? Fortunately mine isn't bad. You don't even feel it unless you are paying attention to it. My co-worker who rode in mine said his was twice as bad and replacing the rear shocks fixed his. He said one of the stock shocks didn't even engage until it was compressed over an inch.

Some people reported that spring clamps worked for them. I'd imagine the clamps are mimicking a slight load on the leafs.

Lastly, check your u-bolts. Mine were only torqued to 45 pounds when the factory calls for 85. I torqued mine to 95 and it actually improved the ride a little bit.

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[Dmf10e]

How bad is yours? Fortunately mine isn't bad. You don't even feel it unless you are paying attention to it. My co-worker who rode in mine said his was twice as bad and replacing the rear shocks fixed his. He said one of the stock shocks didn't even engage until it was compressed over an inch.

 

Some people reported that spring clamps worked for them. I'd imagine the clamps are mimicking a slight load on the leafs.

 

Lastly, check your u-bolts. Mine were only torqued to 45 pounds when the factory calls for 85. I torqued mine to 95 and it actually improved the ride a little bit.

 

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Any one know why the U bolts are coming torqued 50% less than factory says they should be?? Makes no sense.

 

I posted a video several pages back of the water bottle shaking in the center console. Took to the dealership and they ran the pico scope on the steering wheel and driving up to 78 mph (they say) and it was all in range. Couple spikes up to 20 that they attributed to the road, but all what GM believes is acceptable. They’re not smooth in southeast Michigan). My truck is bad in the 78-83ish range. And i only have 13k miles on the ‘16. 90 mph is completely smooth.

 

Just came back from Green Bay this weekend (1000 miles total) and the shake was bad even on smooth asphalt roads with no grooved pavements. So much so that just by having your arm resting up on it and you take a pic, it’s blurry.

 

So a lot of people suggest after market shocks and tighten U bolts?

 

 

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[sdeeter19555]

Any one know why the U bolts are coming torqued 50% less than factory says they should be?? Makes no sense.
 
I posted a video several pages back of the water bottle shaking in the center console. Took to the dealership and they ran the pico scope on the steering wheel and driving up to 78 mph (they say) and it was all in range. Couple spikes up to 20 that they attributed to the road, but all what GM believes is acceptable. They’re not smooth in southeast Michigan). My truck is bad in the 78-83ish range. And i only have 13k miles on the ‘16. 90 mph is completely smooth.
 
Just came back from Green Bay this weekend (1000 miles total) and the shake was bad even on smooth asphalt roads with no grooved pavements. So much so that just by having your arm resting up on it and you take a pic, it’s blurry.
 
So a lot of people suggest after market shocks and tighten U bolts?
 
 
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There is a lot of paint on/between those leaves, and that will likely press out under load...they are probably the correct torque when first done, then the spring pack gets "worn in" from being under pressure.

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[Darth_Vader]

On 11/29/2017 at 12:27 PM, smcgillis10 said:

The only fixes I have seen is when the rear axles are changed with aftermarket. There's a few guys that have swapped to Yukon axles and have not had any vibration since. I'm waiting for the cash to do them myself, since it's the last thing on the list besides a new truck.
Here's one.

 

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Spend your money on a disk gauge and check for run out first, new axles may have made it better but it did not fix it by any means. I'm not convinced that the issues don't lie in the semi-float axle design. I have an EVA and I know my vibration is a speed related rotational issue so in my case it has to be from the carrier out. Things I've tried so far:

3 sets of wheels and tires (including forged)

Replaced all brake rotors

Replaced rear axles

Replaced rear ring and pinion

Replaced rear carrier

 

And that's only the crap that I've done that rotates at the frequency of the problem. My next step may be a C-clip delete, who knows. 

[smcgillis10]

Spend your money on a disk gauge and check for run out first, new axles may have made it better but it did not fix it by any means. I'm not convinced that the issues don't lie in the semi-float axle design. I have an EVA and I know my vibration is a speed related rotational issue so in my case it has to be from the carrier out. Things I've tried so far:
3 sets of wheels and tires (including forged)
Replaced all brake rotors
Replaced rear axles
Replaced rear ring and pinion
Replaced rear carrier
 
And that's only the crap that I've done that rotates at the frequency of the problem. My next step may be a C-clip delete, who knows. 

I'll look into that. I am looking at axles because mine are eating rotors. It's wearing them on half of the rotor. Like it's wabbling and touching one side.

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[kthomas72]

2 hours ago, smcgillis10 said:

I'll look into that. I am looking at axles because mine are eating rotors. It's wearing them on half of the rotor. Like it's wabbling and touching one side.

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That is a valid point that I never thought to check my rear rotors for warp or uneven surfaces. I still have a grinding/rumbling coming I believe from the front end/4WD but I did get the rear axels replaced for free from Chevy after I disassembled the rear end and filmed the axle flanges rotating out of round. Also the stock driveshaft is absolute thin-wall junk that was irreparable so I had a driveline shop build me a REAL one piece aluminum shaft that is actually balanced, perfectly round and straight unlike the factory POS.

[Rukus]

Did the new Shaft fix it?   Why 15 was smooth until about 65K on the tires.   Duratecs.   Then 

I got crazy vibrations between 70/80.  New tires on at 74K and the vibes stayed.  Balanced twice/no luck.  RF'd with no luck.   Alignment done 3 times.  No luck.   Put old Duratecs back on and traded for the '17.   From day 1 vibrations between 70-80.   

[Obscenejesster]

I came to the conclusion that my rear shocks were causing what I thought was a very slight vibration in my driver's seat. My vibration was no where near as bad as what some of you describe. If I have a bottle of water in my center console, you can't even really see it move unless I hit a bump.

Anyhow, I found out that my driver side rear shock had 2 inches of travel before it even started working and my passenger side rear had 1 inch of travel. My mechanic told me that what was happening was that slight imperfections in the road were being eaten up by the frame rather than through the shocks which mimics a vibration. He said one imperfection at high speeds could have a lasting effect for a few seconds and then all of the small imperfections along the highway just keep stacking up on each other.

I suppose this explains why sometimes I could feel it and other times I couldn't.

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[kthomas72]

22 hours ago, Obscenejesster said:

I came to the conclusion that my rear shocks were causing what I thought was a very slight vibration in my driver's seat. My vibration was no where near as bad as what some of you describe. If I have a bottle of water in my center console, you can't even really see it move unless I hit a bump.

Anyhow, I found out that my driver side rear shock had 2 inches of travel before it even started working and my passenger side rear had 1 inch of travel. My mechanic told me that what was happening was that slight imperfections in the road were being eaten up by the frame rather than through the shocks which mimics a vibration. He said one imperfection at high speeds could have a lasting effect for a few seconds and then all of the small imperfections along the highway just keep stacking up on each other.

I suppose this explains why sometimes I could feel it and other times I couldn't.

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I wish it was that simple.

[Obscenejesster]

I wish it was that simple.

It seems like there are a multitude of things causing bad vibration for many of you. I believe that the way the frame is designed is allowing many of these vibrations to be noticed.

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[2017SierraSLT]

21 hours ago, Obscenejesster said:

It seems like there are a multitude of things causing bad vibration for many of you. I believe that the way the frame is designed is allowing many of these vibrations to be noticed.

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I don't recall hearing that many GMT900's having a vibration issue, and the frames are EXTREMEMLY similar between the two generations.

 

It comes down to defective axles, driveshafts, and torque converters.