Shake or Vibration Issues

ssass24 · December 13, 2018

20 minutes ago, Barak said:

Is your truck 1500 or 2500HD model?

Here's a video... On a very flat, new road.

Barak · December 13, 2018

Yep 1500s arw more prone to the issue. I hve a 2500HD and sort of experienced it but since have not felt it. So I am thinking it may have something to do with drive shaft being aluminum and when it’s hot weather it absorbs more heat plus from driving it heats up faster so the turnes make it vibrate/shake. I am waiting till spring/summer to troubleshoot and go from there. Hopefully it was just something to do with new truck not broken in yet. That’s as far as I got with it but others on this forum have engaged other means including taking it to legal process. Will have to see if GM comes out with recal or fix.

Colossus · December 14, 2018

Well now that the 2019 1500s are out, the vibration issues on the 2014-2018 will be swept further under the rug. Those who have it are pretty much SoL. How dissapointing. GM could have earned some much needed trust and even loyalty (yes see my signature) by admitting to the issue and doing whatever it took to make it right by the customer, be it buy back or new truck, but they took the low road in my opinion like so many big companies try to do these days. Jerks.

Bart’s Silverado · December 14, 2018

Call Performance Drivelines in Barstow CA and order their two piece steel driveshaft kit. It will fix your truck. Also much, much cheaper than trading or legal action.

ssass24 · December 14, 2018

Thanks for the feedback so far. I found this link pretty interesting (sorry if it's already been discussed):

https://gm.oemdtc.com/753/information-on-vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2018-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

The interesting part is if you read the details of how to perform the pico test, there should be a sensor placed under the steering column. The tech had me drive the truck during the test, and also unplug the OBD plug at the end. There was no sensor hooked there. It also references a specific pico kit (with NVH) that must be used, because the normal pico test isn't sensitive to the frequencies produced by this issue. The tech also mentioned that they don't do many of them, so they were learning. So of course the test didn't produce anything of use... If it wasn't done right.

chevyloco · December 14, 2018

On 12/12/2018 at 5:06 PM, ssass24 said:

@Ericruiz911

It sounds like I am dealing with the exact situation as you, and I'm not sure where to go from here.

I test drove my 2018 Sierra SLT crew cab around Oct 28th and told them I felt the vibration at 65 mph. Not being aware that this was a chronic problem, I believed the salesman when he told me that they would balance the tires and that would get rid of it.

I bought it on the 29th and immediately called them saying the problem was still there. They said it may need road force tested, and to bring it back in. I did... They performed the road force test and discovered that most of the tires were out of spec, and they would replace them all. Took a few days for the tires to come in, and they replaced them.

The problem didn't change. Called them back... They said they would have a different tech who is a tire balancing wizard preform the balance, and that would fix it. It did not.

At this point, I was curious if I was getting close to any limit for returning the truck or if there were any rules for that... So I called GM customer satisfaction. The operator told me I would have to start the buyback process. Ok.

As part of the buyback process, GM engineering requested vibration test results. They had me drive while the tech recorded data on a laptop. The tech could see the steering wheel visibly shaking while doing the test.

GM came back with no recommendation for a fix, based on the test results being "within spec". Today, the GM rep called and said the buyback was denied, due to the results being within spec.

The dealer says there is nothing else they can do, and GM won't accept that the product they sold me is defective... So what now?

The way I see it, options are:

1) Get a lawyer and go through the lemon law process

2) Deal with the shake and the possible future issues the truck will have from shaking so much

3) Take it somewhere else to get repaired, which will cost money, and possibly void the warranty

4) See how much Dodge will give me toward a new Ram

Any help would be appreciated. The customer satisfaction rep didn't seem to care that this is my 7th (and last) GM vehicle.

I would pass on option 4. My 14 and 16 Ram Limited was bought back by FCA. You would be trading 1 problem for another. Ram's drive line is defective. Even in the 19's the tranny clunks. MY 14 was so bad I had 2 full file folders full of repairs. My 16 had the tranny replaced, driveshaft and t-case. Both with under 15K miles. Absolute Junk. In my experience there are only 3 options if you need a truck, Toyota, Ford or none. I picked Ford for the drive line. It's still expensive junk, but it's the best junk available unless you want old tech Tundra.

If you choose option 1 and live in state with lemon laws similar to Texas, you don't need a lawyer. The state was very helpful in getting both my trucks bought back. I didn't even have to go to court because they knew I would win and they settled. Also, in Texas all you need is 3 repairs (get them in writing even if they say no) for the same problem before you file a claim. And a little birder who works for the company the actually buys back vehicles from manufacturers and picks them up from the dealer told me when you file a claim, mention SAFETY as reason for filing your claim.

Hope you get your truck fixed.

Edited December 14, 2018 by chevyloco

Retired Bob · December 16, 2018

For those with truck vibrations, possible refer your dealer to this article to see if a new request to GM following these instructions might be helpful:

TAC Assistance with Vehicle Vibration Diagnosis

Posted on December 13, 2018

https://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=10581

ssass24 · December 17, 2018

An update on my issue...the dealership service department had my truck a total of 5 times. 4 of those 5 involved balancing. They also supposedly did a rebalance after my test drive and before I purchased it. Corporate GM was no help with a buyback. After weighing my options, I decided to go with the cheapest and easiest first.

I took it to a tire place (Tireman) that I've had good experiences with fixing past cars/trucks. They did a road force balance and said the tires were out of balance. They did a "micro balance", according to the invoice sheet, and it rides much, much better. $43...boom. You can feel the difference at any speed over 40. Not like glass, but I expect to not ride like a truck, not like my grandpa's old Cadillac.

So... After a month and a half of trips to the dealer, it turns out either their employees or equipment are just incompetent.

Funny irony: the day I came home with a finally-smooth-riding truck, in the mail was a flyer from the dealership service department with their tagline: "we are professional grade".

Edited December 17, 2018 by ssass24
Typeo

WhineyTTwins · December 17, 2018

On 12/12/2018 at 6:06 PM, ssass24 said:

@Ericruiz911

It sounds like I am dealing with the exact situation as you, and I'm not sure where to go from here.

I test drove my 2018 Sierra SLT crew cab around Oct 28th and told them I felt the vibration at 65 mph. Not being aware that this was a chronic problem, I believed the salesman when he told me that they would balance the tires and that would get rid of it.

I bought it on the 29th and immediately called them saying the problem was still there. They said it may need road force tested, and to bring it back in. I did... They performed the road force test and discovered that most of the tires were out of spec, and they would replace them all. Took a few days for the tires to come in, and they replaced them.

The problem didn't change. Called them back... They said they would have a different tech who is a tire balancing wizard preform the balance, and that would fix it. It did not.

At this point, I was curious if I was getting close to any limit for returning the truck or if there were any rules for that... So I called GM customer satisfaction. The operator told me I would have to start the buyback process. Ok.

As part of the buyback process, GM engineering requested vibration test results. They had me drive while the tech recorded data on a laptop. The tech could see the steering wheel visibly shaking while doing the test.

GM came back with no recommendation for a fix, based on the test results being "within spec". Today, the GM rep called and said the buyback was denied, due to the results being within spec.

The dealer says there is nothing else they can do, and GM won't accept that the product they sold me is defective... So what now?

The way I see it, options are:

1) Get a lawyer and go through the lemon law process

2) Deal with the shake and the possible future issues the truck will have from shaking so much

3) Take it somewhere else to get repaired, which will cost money, and possibly void the warranty

4) See how much Dodge will give me toward a new Ram

Any help would be appreciated. The customer satisfaction rep didn't seem to care that this is my 7th (and last) GM vehicle.

For reference, the highest trade-in appraisal I have gotten was $35k with 7k miles on it. The way things are going, I am looking at trading it in on another used truck (never going back to GM) to minimize the loss. This is the only solution I see because GM is going to give me the runaround and there is nothing I can do about it. I have bigger things to worry about than playing a game of cat and mouse with GM. I am just gonna accept that their service is the worst and come to terms with the loss on the truck. I am so unhappy with the truck that I dread driving it every single morning. Losing a few thousand dollars to be happy is the route that has become more appealing at this point. I was going to try and repair on my own but if I even touch it, GM will throw it back in my face and this would have been for nothing so it is what it is.

Edited December 17, 2018 by Ericruiz911

Olvim · December 17, 2018

5 hours ago, ssass24 said:

An update on my issue...the dealership service department had my truck a total of 5 times. 4 of those 5 involved balancing. They also supposedly did a rebalance after my test drive and before I purchased it. Corporate GM was no help with a buyback. After weighing my options, I decided to go with the cheapest and easiest first.

I took it to a tire place (Tireman) that I've had good experiences with fixing past cars/trucks. They did a road force balance and said the tires were out of balance. They did a "micro balance", according to the invoice sheet, and it rides much, much better. $43...boom. You can feel the difference at any speed over 40. Not like glass, but I expect to not ride like a truck, not like my grandpa's old Cadillac.

So... After a month and a half of trips to the dealer, it turns out either their employees or equipment are just incompetent.

Funny irony: the day I came home with a finally-smooth-riding truck, in the mail was a flyer from the dealership service department with their tagline: "we are professional grade".

This mirrored my experience exactly. It was balancing all along, and after 7 trips to the dealer and over 40 days in the shop, a Hunter tech got mine right on the first try. My truck is smooth as glass now (2,000 miles and counting). The only thing I feel now is the road on the highway, a slight buzz/tingle in my hands anytime I’m going over 73. The Goodyear SRAs have something to do with that road feel, in my opinion. Mine seem to flatspot overnight in the cold weather here in Michigan and it takes about 10 miles for them to warm up and smooth out. A set of Michelin LTXs should alleviate that when I’m due for new treads, but I’m too cheap to drop $1,000 on tires on a truck with only 6,000 miles.

Either way, in short, mine is WAY better now. I am convinced GM techs have no idea what they’re doing unless something throws a code and tells them exactly what the problem is.

jagabom (Esquire) · December 17, 2018

3 hours ago, Ericruiz911 said:

For reference, the highest trade-in appraisal I have gotten was $35k with 7k miles on it. The way things are going, I am looking at trading it in on another used truck (never going back to GM) to minimize the loss. This is the only solution I see because GM is going to give me the runaround and there is nothing I can do about it. I have bigger things to worry about than playing a game of cat and mouse with GM. I am just gonna accept that they're service is the worst and come to terms with the loss on the truck. I am so unhappy with the truck that I dread driving it every single morning. Losing a few thousand dollars to be happy is the route that has become more appealing at this point. I was going to try and repair on my own but if I even touch it, GM will throw it back in my face and this would have been for nothing so it is what it is.

Agree with you there Ericruiz911. Sometimes better to take the loss and be happy. Like you say every day you don't enjoy the truck. Let us know the outcome. I've done that with other things in my life.

Edited December 17, 2018 by jagabom

midwestdenaliguy · December 17, 2018

Thought I'd chime in with my conversation that I had with Performance Driveline out of California, since putting in their 2-piece driveshaft has been mentioned as the solution to the shake. I don't have the shake, but I have done a lot of performance mods to my truck (tune, borla exhaust, custom cai, etc.) and I want to get the truck dyno tested. I've had 2 shops tell me they won't do it because I have the thin-walled factory driveshaft and they recommended I get a better one to handle my higher hp/torque. I've got a 2016 Sierra, 6.2L V8, crew cab, short bed, 4-wheel drive. I called Performance Driveline to talk about the 2-piece shaft and he said they recommend their single piece aluminum shaft with billet aluminum slip yoke for my truck. Because the 4-wheel drive shafts are shorter, they are able to build a thicker-walled aluminum shaft with a billet slip yoke that can handle 1000+ hp. With the 2-piece shafts it would have to be a custom build and not immediately available like the 2-wheel drive shafts, plus I would have to spend more $$$ on their 500+ hp 2-piece shaft since I am close to 500 hp based on adding up all the claimed hp gains from all my mods (yet to be confirmed with a dyno, but can't get one done due to the stock driveshaft).

Long story short, I mentioned I heard about them through this thread and he said they don't claim to be the answer to this issue. He said guys have told them it did fix it while others said it helped, but didn't complete solve it. It's completely up to you if you have the shake and want to give them a try, but I would go in knowing that the 2-piece shaft is recommended for 2-wheel set ups and the single piece beefed up aluminum shaft is recommended for 4-wheel drive. Price is about the same, around $650. I'll be ordering a new single piece shaft due to all my performance mods and occasional towing (want something I don't have to worry about). I'll let you know if I notice a difference in ride quality. Regardless of me not having the shake, these guys were super helpful and took the time to answer all of my questions and even talk about all the work they've done to help guys out with the shake.

yojo · December 17, 2018

2 minutes ago, midwestdenaliguy said:

Thought I'd chime in with my conversation that I had with Performance Driveline out of California, since putting in their 2-piece driveshaft has been mentioned as the solution to the shake. I don't have the shake, but I have done a lot of performance mods to my truck (tune, borla exhaust, custom cai, etc.) and I want to get the truck dyno tested. I've had 2 shops tell me they won't do it because I have the thin-walled factory driveshaft and they recommended I get a better one to handle my higher hp/torque. I've got a 2016 Sierra, 6.2L V8, crew cab, short bed, 4-wheel drive. I called Performance Driveline to talk about the 2-piece shaft and he said they recommend their single piece aluminum shaft with billet aluminum slip yoke for my truck. Because the 4-wheel drive shafts are shorter, they are able to build a thicker-walled aluminum shaft with a billet slip yoke that can handle 1000+ hp. With the 2-piece shafts it would have to be a custom build and not immediately available like the 2-wheel drive shafts, plus I would have to spend more $$$ on their 500+ hp 2-piece shaft since I am close to 500 hp based on adding up all the claimed hp gains from all my mods (yet to be confirmed with a dyno, but can't get one done due to the stock driveshaft).

Long story short, I mentioned I heard about them through this thread and he said they don't claim to be the answer to this issue. He said guys have told them it did fix it while others said it helped, but didn't complete solve it. It's completely up to you if you have the shake and want to give them a try, but I would go in knowing that the 2-piece shaft is recommended for 2-wheel set ups and the single piece beefed up aluminum shaft is recommended for 4-wheel drive. Price is about the same, around $650. I'll be ordering a new single piece shaft due to all my performance mods and occasional towing (want something I don't have to worry about). I'll let you know if I notice a difference in ride quality. Regardless of me not having the shake, these guys were super helpful and took the time to answer all of my questions and even talk about all the work they've done to help guys out with the shake.

Thanks for info!!

Bart’s Silverado · December 18, 2018

Your welcome. They are top notch and so are their shafts. Mine is a 2wd and for me the shaft took out all the shake except for the normal tire balance issues. I’ve determined that the 20 inch Goodyear RSAs are just cheap tires. Similar construction to their 17 inch cousins for police cars. I ran them for years on my cruisers. The state paid a whopping $43 per tire!!! Cost does equal quality in a tire. My truck is currently running 17 inch wheels from my old Tahoe and Wal Marts cheapest Goodyear tire in 265-70/17. Rides very smooth and the tires seem to last very well.

WhineyTTwins · December 18, 2018

So this will be my final post on this thread. GM just called stating that they will be replacing my truck. I wanted them to buy it back but that is what they offered and I am not about to play the long game on this. I will be trading up to a 2019, don't even care that the truck isn't the most appealing to me BUT it will have a higher resale value and will minimize the amount of issues that stem from the '14-'18 models. I feel I got lucky with this offer from them so I took it, not taking the risk.