Do You Wait For The Oil Change Reminder In Your GM?

[Gofas]

To get the most out of your free oil changes for 3 years GM oil service kid said wait til 20%.

Id rather stick with 5k changes and this is what im doing. 30`40%. life

Now if I dog the truck out for extended period of time i'll change earlier. maybe 3k.

not to worried about wasting the oil being it goes in the recycle.

[randall moore]

Thanks for your service

[harley_man]

My dealer said 5,000 miles or 20 percent. Whichever comes first.

[Jhyde32153]

I have a 01 Suburban that I have always used Amsoil Signature 5/30. I change it once a year, usually about 12,000 miles. I do drop the filter and add a quart 6 months in. I now have 256,000 miles and she runs good!

[Grumpy Bear]

I enjoyed this read about GM's oil life system and figured you guys might also. It was written it seems in 02' but the process has not changed much. Might change your opinions on relying/not relying on the oil life system.

 

http://assets.cobaltnitra.com/teams/repository/export/975/c7820afba1004895010145efa6b30/975c7820afba1004895010145efa6b30.pdf

 

Reads like a politician wrote it. Lots of words saying little. .​

[Dnt]

I have decided that on any new vehicles from here forward that i will change the original factory oil at between 500 and 1000 miles. All manufacturing processes including engine assembly will have some foreign particles be it gasket sealer / thread anti seize / metal shavings etc. That would seem to be the most critical thing to do. I agree that the new oils have much different properties from the 60's and should theoretically last for 12000 miles dependent upon driving conditions.. I will probably go by the Oil Life Monitor on mine from the first oil change forward unless I see a black looking oil on the dipstick or find some data that tells me that the GM Engineers are plotting to make us destroy our engines so we have to buy a new truck very few years. I guess that could be considered a form of Job Security....

[WilliamBos]

I change at 8,000km/5,000 mile intervals. Usually 45-55% on the OLM. Full syn..

[sdeeter19555]

I have decided that on any new vehicles from here forward that i will change the original factory oil at between 500 and 1000 miles. All manufacturing processes including engine assembly will have some foreign particles be it gasket sealer / thread anti seize / metal shavings etc. That would seem to be the most critical thing to do. I agree that the new oils have much different properties from the 60's and should theoretically last for 12000 miles dependent upon driving conditions.. I will probably go by the Oil Life Monitor on mine from the first oil change forward unless I see a black looking oil on the dipstick or find some data that tells me that the GM Engineers are plotting to make us destroy our engines so we have to buy a new truck very few years. I guess that could be considered a form of Job Security....

This is what I do now, first change early, then OLM...

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

[Chevor]

I ignore oil life monitor.

[RDKILL]

With the dealers oil change in my truck now, I'll wait until 5K miles and get an analysis, then flush with Amsoil engine flush and fill with Amsoil, as well as the filter.

Then my plan is to change it again at 7K (get analysis) and refill with Amsoil....and change at 15K (analysis) and then at 25K (analysis).

Each time the filter will be changed as well, and I'll be watching the lubricity level...as well as reading the report for each analysis.

I hope to eventually have the extended oil change done at 25K or 1yr whichever comes first as routine oil change.

[Colossus]

I didn't realize that Amsoil finally jumped on the Dexos Approved list.

[RDKILL]

I didn't realize that Amsoil finally jumped on the Dexos Approved list.

Yup...the Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid.

 

Here's a copy paste for more info.:

APPLICATIONS

AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic ATF is recommended for transmissions and other applications that require any of the following specifications:

Ford MERCON* LV, SP; GM DEXRON* VI, DEXRON* HP; Aisin-Warner AW-1; BMW 83 22 0 142 516, 83 22 2 152 426, Dsih 6p805; Honda DW-1*; Hyundai/Kia SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP-IV-RR, NSW-9638, SP4-M; JASO 1A-LV; JWS 3324; Chrysler Mopar* P/N 68157995A, SP-IV; Mercedes-Benz 236.12, 236.14, 236.15, 236.41; Mitsubishi SP-IV, ATF J3, ATF-PA; Nissan Matic-S, Matic-W; Saab 93 165 147; Shell M-1375.4, M-1375.5, M-1375.6, M-L 12108; Toyota WS; Volkswagen/Audi G 055 005, G 055 162, G 060 162 ,G 052 540; Volvo 31256774, ZF S671 090 255

AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic ATF is backward compatible and replaces DEXRON III fluids in older GM automatic transmissions. (DEXRON VI specification supersedes the obsolete DEXRON III in GM vehicles.)

[unit731]

Dealerships are full of goofballs

 

Not all of course.

 

But for the most part. The lowest newest youngest "mechanic" does the oil changes. How could anyone screw this up? Well, I have heard enough stories about Quicky Lube and dealerships NOT putting on the drain nut or not putting it on tightly. With no oil or oil draining quickly.

 

Decades ago.

I had this nice 10 year old used car that I had purchased. Really excellent like new condition. So thinking to take good care of car I went to dealership for oil change.

After done, the "mechanic" drives the car to outside of service department. Brings/takes keys to service desk. Go to cashier pay bill and I am given keys to my nice used car.

I go outside and car is running. With no key in ignition. No - no fancy FOB's back then. Just keys.

 

So how could the car be running with no key?

[sdeeter19555]

 

Not all of course.

 

But for the most part. The lowest newest youngest "mechanic" does the oil changes. How could anyone screw this up? Well, I have heard enough stories about Quicky Lube and dealerships NOT putting on the drain nut or not putting it on tightly. With no oil or oil draining quickly.

 

Decades ago.

I had this nice 10 year old used car that I had purchased. Really excellent like new condition. So thinking to take good care of car I went to dealership for oil change.

After done, the "mechanic" drives the car to outside of service department. Brings/takes keys to service desk. Go to cashier pay bill and I am given keys to my nice used car.

I go outside and car is running. With no key in ignition. No - no fancy FOB's back then. Just keys.

 

So how could the car be running with no key?

Or they put the drain plug and/or filter on so tight that you, as the DYI mechanic, can't get them loose in the driveway and/or strip the threads trying (but it's your fault, cause it happened under your watch).

 

Had an idiot at a Big O in Los Alamos obviously cross thread a lugnut some years back, forced it on with an impact so that no one would know he screwed up...when I found out (1500 miles and many states away later), I was told "wheel studs and lug nuts wear out after use and need replaced". Needless to say, I won't use Big O and I watch every tire being installed now.

 

It's hard to trust people to actually work on your vehicles when you have blatant faulty work completed.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[unit731]

Every 3-4k

 

Every 3,000 miles. Unless I go over a few miles.

 

In my unscientific opinion, most of the damage to an automotive engine is done early on. Because the engine oil is not changed frequently when new.