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Posted
7 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

Do you think my 3:08's with oversized 22's (I went up to 305/45) would make that much difference?

Yes. Youd get worse mpg. Plus the weight of those things

 

If you had a 342 youd be better. I actually average higher mpg with my smaller tires. Rpms are actuslly about 3-400rpm more than when i had stock size tires

Posted

Forgot to mention I typically drive in M5 most of the time as it shifts better (I could see that making a difference on long highway drive but not sure if it would affect city)

Posted
Forgot to mention I typically drive in M5 most of the time as it shifts better (I could see that making a difference on long highway drive but not sure if it would affect city)
I drive in M5 up until 60 mph after that I got M6. How fast are you going on these long highway drives?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, SirenRed16 said:

I drive in M5 up until 60 mph after that I got M6. How fast are you going on these long highway drives?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

I don't do many really long drives  (just mentioned that as a hypothetical) and my typical highway treks lately are less than 10 miles at about 65 mph 

Posted

2016 RCSB.  21.5 MPG lifetime all stock. at 35,853 miles. 5.3 with 3.42 gears. Stock 17" Bridgestones at 35 PSI. 58 mile round trip every day to work with stop and go up to 75 MPH on 10 miles of Interstate.

I run with the flow and dodge texting idiots with no concessions to mileage. Gear selector in Drive. Cheapest pump gas in Mobile Alabama, 87 octane. The truck runs strong with a smooth idle.

Maybe I got a lemon !!

Posted

Hi Marv, Im curious if you figured anything out with the audio controls on the steering wheel, I also have the IOB7 radio and would like    to change my steering wheel for one with audio controls ! 

Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, WhoDat77 said:

Hi Marv, Im curious if you figured anything out with the audio controls on the steering wheel, I also have the IOB7 radio and would like    to change my steering wheel for one with audio controls ! 

Hey WhoDat! The most significant thing I found out is the IOB radio cannot be controlled by steering wheel controls so if you plan to keep that there is nothing you can do. If you upgrade to an IO5/IO6 or go aftermarket with an idatalink Maestro you "may" be able to get the steering wheel controls to work however on top of changing the steering wheel you would have to upgrade your cluster to an LT truck version, have that reprogrammed, add wiring for communication and splice into your factory wiring. Unfortunately I have not been able to find anyone who has actually done this on an IOB truck and can say it did in fact work so I'm giving up for now as I'm not willing to spend that much dough on a "maybe". Sorry I didn't have better news! 

Edited by Marv88
Posted (edited)

I also seen you guys talking about gas millage, I drive a 2018 1500 Silverado crew cab 5.3 v8 and I’m getting just about 17mpg pretty much all city driving . 

Edited by WhoDat77
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just got done reading this build thread. Nice work man! Lookin fwrd to seein that enclosure completed.

Posted
1 hour ago, Trigger man said:

Just got done reading this build thread. Nice work man! Lookin fwrd to seein that enclosure completed.

Thanks! I haven't had time to do much on the audio lately but I'll update as soon as I get it done. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

After much contemplation I decided I don't need as much bass as I used to so I'm going with a single 8" sub and I'm going to keep the jump seat just in case. I also wanted to keep as much storage space behind the seats as possible for my dog supplies/tie down straps etc so I started to build another smaller console enclosure in front of the jump seat. Half way through that I decided that space would be better untilized for a console to store other small things since the amp is going in the lower jump seat compartment so I went back to the drawing board. After 5 or 6 designs this is what I came up with to suit all of my objectives. It fits behind the jump seat firing up, allows full function of the jump seat, clears the seat belt mechanism, allows the seats to go all the way back and allowed me to keep the factory back wall carpet as well as insulation. The only alteration I had to make was removing the tire tools and I will use the stud  to secure the enclosure as well as add a bracket on the end bolted to the seat belt mechanism stud. Not sure I want to just carpet this so I may have it Rhino Lined or upholstered in leather to match the jump seat. I'll get some pictures of it installed in the daylight tomorrow. 

 

IMG_2270.thumb.JPG.8970e199865f259f83669c3cfa2daf92.JPG

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Couldn't wait so I drilled the hole for the stud and did a test fit. 

 

IMG_2276.thumb.JPG.e352c7ee607ebc2d34ebebd80b580831.JPG

 

IMG_2282.thumb.JPG.4a8a36cd3db2f76c1bb2650983c3c7ac.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Just realized I could install a bolt in the top of the enclosure and mount the tire tools there using the factory hardware.

 

IMG_2285.thumb.JPG.e38e9aa7f9a1de3f7184f879bd35462d.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Looks great! I did something similar in my double cab to retain the factory storage for the jack handle. Nicely done.

  • Thanks 1

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