Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

And it will always be a ford.

  • Like 1
Posted

You guys are too funny...and kinda sad. More than half would side with Chevy no matter what the other side offers. Too blind to see it. I used to be that way but I woke up saw that Ford is the superior truck. I thank Chevy for making my lemon...I would have never wandered away if I got another good one but they did and so I did. VERY glad I did.

 

And what?? Judging Ford on the interior of an STX?? Would I judge Chevy based on the interior of their "work truck" and all it's plastic? Of course not. It's unreal how moronic some people can be.

Posted

Flores, sorry it had to come to you buying a Ford. Hope your truck treats you well.

Thanks man, I remember you from when I was on here going through hell compliments of GM. What a terrible summer that was. I'm honestly very happy with my F150. I'll never be color blind or a brand snob again. I wish you great luck with your ride as well.

Posted

You guys are too funny...and kinda sad. More than half would side with Chevy no matter what the other side offers. Too blind to see it. I used to be that way but I woke up saw that Ford is the superior truck. I thank Chevy for making my lemon...I would have never wandered away if I got another good one but they did and so I did. VERY glad I did.

 

And what?? Judging Ford on the interior of an STX?? Would I judge Chevy based on the interior of their "work truck" and all it's plastic? Of course not. It's unreal how moronic some people can be.

 

So your saying that the Ford STX work trucks come with 20 inch polished aluminum wheels, running boards and painted bumpers, because the one I drove in did. Just for the record, the pic you posted of that Ford dash looks cheap too. Guess that's a STX huh ?

Posted

So your saying that the Ford STX work trucks come with 20 inch polished aluminum wheels, running boards and painted bumpers, because the one I drove in did. Just for the record, the pic you posted of that Ford dash looks cheap too. Guess that's a STX huh ?

Unfortunately this thread is getting so far off subject it may become useless to the person looking for "on topic" solutions and help. This thread was a tremendous help when I was looking for answers.

Posted

This seems to be happening in several threads, usually due to unneeded rhetoric about "my other non gm truck", best thing you will ever do.

Everyone is entitled to opinions, but there opinion is not needed in every thread, or post. (Mods)

I realize I am currently jacking this thread, but really

If this offends anyone in-particular, and you wish to post about your other truck and why it's so great, please do, in a thread dedicated to you and your truck, or another non gm forum.

Hopefully back to topics, and I apologize.

  • Like 1
Posted

Wow I cannot believe that this thread is still ongoing. I am sure that there are some nuggets of gold info in this thread somewhere concerning the shake and vibration issue but good grief who can spend two days reading 3968 posts especially since it has turned into a GM versus Ford pissing match. I gave up on my dealership to come up with a fix at approx 20k miles and I bought a set of Michelin tires for my 14 GMC Sierra 4x4 Z71 5.3 3.42 20in factory wheels 5.5 bed truck. I have driven approx 7k on the Michelins. The Z71 suspension if fairly stiff and does transmit a lot of road shock on rough roads but I am happy with it. The Truck came with Goodyears and they reminded me of the old bias ply tires from many years ago that most of you are probably not old enough to even remember. If the truck set for a couple of days the tires would flat spot and it would ride like a log wagon with square tires for the first 5 to ten miles that is a sure indication of bad (chit) tires. The OEM Goodyear SRA tires are very poor quality on the 14s with the 20in wheels IMHO.

Posted

Unfortunately this thread is getting so far off subject it may become useless to the person looking for "on topic" solutions and help. This thread was a tremendous help when I was looking for answers.

I agree with you but when some dude comes on a GM Trucks site and starts posting pics of Ford trucks and how great they are and trashing GM cause he got burnt with a lemon, that not cool either.

  • Like 1
Posted

Please stay on topic, this is your warning

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Wow I cannot believe that this thread is still ongoing. I am sure that there are some nuggets of gold info in this thread somewhere concerning the shake and vibration issue but good grief who can spend two days reading 3968 posts especially since it has turned into a GM versus Ford pissing match. I gave up on my dealership to come up with a fix at approx 20k miles and I bought a set of Michelin tires for my 14 GMC Sierra 4x4 Z71 5.3 3.42 20in factory wheels 5.5 bed truck. I have driven approx 7k on the Michelins. The Z71 suspension if fairly stiff and does transmit a lot of road shock on rough roads but I am happy with it. The Truck came with Goodyears and they reminded me of the old bias ply tires from many years ago that most of you are probably not old enough to even remember. If the truck set for a couple of days the tires would flat spot and it would ride like a log wagon with square tires for the first 5 to ten miles that is a sure indication of bad (chit) tires. The OEM Goodyear SRA tires are very poor quality on the 14s with the 20in wheels IMHO.

I had the vibration or shake on my 14 GMC Sierra SLT crew cab Z71 4x4 5.5 bed 5.3 3.42 rear 20in wheel with goodyear SRA P275/55r20. When I took it for a test drive for the first time got up to about 50 and started to shake bad felt like a tire bad out of balance. Went back to the dealer they said the tires are flat spotted I looked at the build date with was 4-14 and drove it on11-14 so had been sitting on a lot of 7months. Took it for another drive and the shake was allready better.

The dealer said if its going to go away should do it in about 100 miles and if not they would replace the tires. I purchased the truck and time I got home about 80 miles away it was almost gone. The shake never went away completely. I give it to about 1000 miles but was still there form 70 to 85 was bad. Called the dealer they said bring it in and would do a road force balance. The first tire road forced at 49 the second at 71 they said forget it and said you need tires. Told them I wanted Michelins LTX M/S2 said that was fine I paid the differance between the goodyears and the michelins 78.00 dollars. The truck has been smooth ever since.

Edited by southern_sierra
Posted

The problem isn't in the tires,driveshaft,or rear diff. Its in the engine management system.. Go to the display on the dash where it shows when it goes from v4 to v8 and watch the magic happen. The vibrations start when the trans is in to high of a gear and the management system that's supposed to "save fuel" goes to v4 and then the truck acts like a stick shift that's in 5th gear at 20 miles an hour.... My truck is a week old and I don't want it anymore cause of this.. Happens both at high and low speeds... 40k for a truck that's unpleasant to drive... Thanks gm... So there ya go general motors.. I'm not a engineer just a a.s.e. certified mechanic that just solved ur problem.. Sorry if I seem cocky or upset but unless you "gm" either buys back my vehicle or fixes it within the next week then this is the response you will get from me. A dedicated gm owner since I could drive.. But those tundras are looking really good right about now...feel free to contact me gm representative on my cell to help me resolve my issue with my new truck 219-588-5002.. Thanks

Posted

The problem isn't in the tires,driveshaft,or rear diff. Its in the engine management system.. Go to the display on the dash where it shows when it goes from v4 to v8 and watch the magic happen. The vibrations start when the trans is in to high of a gear and the management system that's supposed to "save fuel" goes to v4 and then the truck acts like a stick shift that's in 5th gear at 20 miles an hour.... My truck is a week old and I don't want it anymore cause of this.. Happens both at high and low speeds... 40k for a truck that's unpleasant to drive... Thanks gm... So there ya go general motors.. I'm not a engineer just a a.s.e. certified mechanic that just solved ur problem.. Sorry if I seem cocky or upset but unless you "gm" either buys back my vehicle or fixes it within the next week then this is the response you will get from me. A dedicated gm owner since I could drive.. But those tundras are looking really good right about now...feel free to contact me gm representative on my cell to help me resolve my issue with my new truck 219-588-5002.. Thanks

Yea they won't reach out to you. Only way I got a response was to file with the BBB Autoline and I got a phone call within 24hrs from Gm. 2.5 months of silence and non returned phone calls up till that point. Had the so called "customer service" reps waste that 2 months telling me they were working on a resolution with my selling dealer.

Posted

Yea they won't reach out to you. Only way I got a response was to file with the BBB Autoline and I got a phone call within 24hrs from Gm. 2.5 months of silence and non returned phone calls up till that point. Had the so called "customer service" reps waste that 2 months telling me they were working on a resolution with my selling dealer.

Ur right I probably won't be contacted but I WILL contact corporate and be a thorn in there side until this is resolved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...