Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I'd like to get others opinions on the rear axel flanges (2017 Sierra). The dealership thinks that this wouldn't cause vibrations..

 

I'm no engineer, but to me that sounds like BS. If you have more steel/weight in one area of a round object.. shouldn't that cause a heavy spot, resulting in vibrations?

 

 

 

 

Great videos! This is EXACTLY what I'm seeing with my truck. It had 3 miles on it when I bought it and I have never run it over a curb or hit anything with it so it must have been delivered like that. I cannot imagine that this wouldn't cause some kind of vibration and eventually more wear on the wheel bearing and brake caliper. Dealership says they won't replace my axle shaft or rear end. So are you thinking about replacing the axle shaft on your dime?

Edited by Sir Dan
Posted (edited)

 

Great videos! This is EXACTLY what I'm seeing with my truck. It had 3 miles on it when I bought it and I have never run it over a curb or hit anything with it so it must have been delivered like that. I cannot imagine that this wouldn't cause some kind of vibration and eventually more wear on the wheel bearing and brake caliper. Dealership says they won't replace my axle shaft or rear end. So are you thinking about replacing the axle shaft on your dime?

 

 

I plan on elevating this issue up, the only problem is trying to find a POC higher than the dealership service manager. I honestly feel it will fall on deaf ears and nothing will come out of it.

To answer your question yes, when I have an extra 400-500 bucks I will get some Yukon axels.

Edited by UrbanRage
Posted

Gmparts Direct has a replacement shaft for $240. After watching a few videos, it doesn't look too hard to do. Just sucks since it's a new truck.

Posted

Gmparts Direct has a replacement shaft for $240. After watching a few videos, it doesn't look too hard to do. Just sucks since it's a new truck.

 

 

You are correct, replacing the axels isn't a difficult job, it the princible of having to change them. I'm not sure if I would go with another GM part, as they might have the same issue.

  • Like 1
Posted

Is it just the outside of the axle that is out of round? Could it be turned down on a lathe?

Posted

I plan on elevating this issue up, the only problem is trying to find a POC higher than the dealership service manager. I honestly feel it will fall on deaf ears and nothing will come out of it.

To answer your question yes, when I have an extra 400-500 bucks I will get some Yukon axels.

 

Google GM corporate. Fumble around and you will find a POC eventually. Did this with Badyear on a tire. Good luck

Posted

Very nice, Ive had this feeling about the axles since the day it started. I have also had my 2 piece drive shaft straightened and balanced. Haven't got it up to 70 yet but I will provide my feedback when I do. Around town it feels different. I sometimes had a vibration under hard acceleration and braking but it seems to not exist anymore. Hoping for the best!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Is it just the outside of the axle that is out of round? Could it be turned down on a lathe?

 

 

I'm sure a lathe would do the trick.

Edited by UrbanRage
  • Like 1
Posted

My axle flange has more of sideways wobble I guess. Watching the vids it does look like yours is like "out of round" more. Either way it's defective.

Posted

So my YouTube series about this problem is wrapped up for now. They balanced the tires (again) and after one test drive it still had some vibration so I had asked that they run the Pico Scope. Two days later with no additional repairs being made, we did a test drive with the Pick Scope and the vibration magically was gone. So I have my truck back now but I am sure it will start vibrating again. I will pick up the YouTube series when it comes back. Its only a matter of time. You can watch the 4 episodes here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Let us know if they have a fix for the radio reception issues. Thanks

The radio reception was not fixed. I was told by the dealer that there is no update to fix the reception problem. I said so i just have to live with a partially functioning radio? They said to call GM Corporate on the radio and vibration issue. So I did...

 

After several calls, being placed on hold etc. I was told by GM that there is no fix for either issue and was offered $250 GM accessories credit for my troubles. I am at a crossroads, my truck will be paid off at the end of the year. I want to upgrade to a 2500 Diesel preferably a Denali but after all this I am questioning myself on going back to a GM product. I have never drove anything but GM but the Dodge or Ford don't excite me at all.

 

or I just suck it up and drive what I have for a while to enjoy not having a payment.

Posted

So my YouTube series about this problem is wrapped up for now. They balanced the tires (again) and after one test drive it still had some vibration so I had asked that they run the Pico Scope. Two days later with no additional repairs being made, we did a test drive with the Pick Scope and the vibration magically was gone. So I have my truck back now but I am sure it will start vibrating again. I will pick up the YouTube series when it comes back. Its only a matter of time. You can watch the 4 episodes here:

 

 

 

I've watched your videos and I will say that the vibration you are (were) experiencing is substantially worse that what I'm experiencing. I would compare the vibration I'm feeling to the loaner vehicle in the 2nd video.

 

Keep fighting the fight! Good luck man!

Posted

After seeing all these lates posts I put my truck on jack stands, disassembled my rear and and spun the rear end. To my surprise my rear axel hubs are about 1/4" out of round and deflect in and out a strong 1/8". My concern with taking it to the dealership is wasting time and money arguing with them to fix it. I know with the amount of issues stacking up on these trucks the dealerships push back pretty hard for the simple fact that GM is refusing to reimburse them on the poor quality parts without "safety" issues.

 

I want to just take it to a reputable shop to have repaired but my fear is with having so many miles driven on the truck in this condition there are going to be more issues inside the rear end due to the axles ripping it apart.

Posted

The radio reception was not fixed. I was told by the dealer that there is no update to fix the reception problem. I said so i just have to live with a partially functioning radio? They said to call GM Corporate on the radio and vibration issue. So I did...

 

After several calls, being placed on hold etc. I was told by GM that there is no fix for either issue and was offered $250 GM accessories credit for my troubles. I am at a crossroads, my truck will be paid off at the end of the year. I want to upgrade to a 2500 Diesel preferably a Denali but after all this I am questioning myself on going back to a GM product. I have never drove anything but GM but the Dodge or Ford don't excite me at all.

 

or I just suck it up and drive what I have for a while to enjoy not having a payment.

Thanks for the reply. GM gave me XM for a year on both trucks. It's about over but I thought there would be a fix by now. My vibs only happens on the crew cab truck on certain road conditions . Was worse before I installed a leer cap.
Posted

After seeing all these lates posts I put my truck on jack stands, disassembled my rear and and spun the rear end. To my surprise my rear axel hubs are about 1/4" out of round and deflect in and out a strong 1/8". My concern with taking it to the dealership is wasting time and money arguing with them to fix it. I know with the amount of issues stacking up on these trucks the dealerships push back pretty hard for the simple fact that GM is refusing to reimburse them on the poor quality parts without "safety" issues.

 

I want to just take it to a reputable shop to have repaired but my fear is with having so many miles driven on the truck in this condition there are going to be more issues inside the rear end due to the axles ripping it apart.

I'd like to hear what the shop says.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...