Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I made a post way back when on this thread, probably 6 to 8 months ago when the dealer fixed mine. It's been about 6000 miles since the fix I think, and the click is coming back now.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just ordered a retainer off ebay...worth the $3 to not make a trip to the dealer. Thanks guys for the info, hoping it fixes my seat movement!!

 

 

Did my install the other day, took ~10 minutes. You do not need to use any sort of 'death wheel' to cut this. Pair of snips and done, the material is soft. Solved my issues, we'll see as a rack the miles up if its a long term fix.

Posted

I know this is mainly a topic of the seat moving, but mine has a creaking noise that comes from the back right corner of the seat when driving. I think it has to do with the springs in the seat. It is absolutely annoying to drive. It is a 2015 crew cab with 39,000 miles. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this and what can be done to fix?

Posted

After my return to the dealer after the part came in, they replaced the entire seat track(clips wouldn't work they said) and I haven't had an issue for a couple weeks. We'll see.

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Posted

After my return to the dealer after the part came in, they replaced the entire seat track(clips wouldn't work they said) and I haven't had an issue for a couple weeks. We'll see.

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

How long did it take them to do it? Dealer ordered my seat track replacement, just waiting for it to come in.

Posted

 

How long did it take them to do it? Dealer ordered my seat track replacement, just waiting for it to come in.

 

My appointment was at 7:30 AM. I didn't get out of there till almost 11 AM. Might be better to drop it off.

Posted

Mine would stop moving laterally if I lowered the seat all the way down but then it was too low for my liking. My solution (so far) was to raise the rear of the seat by installing 5/8 inch thick shims/washers and longer bolts where the seat bolts to the floor and leaving the seat powered all the way down. Much better than having the dealer jack around with it.

Posted

Just at dealer (here in Michigan) to get my 2014 done - $235 labor and a $5 part........they had to keep the truck overnight to inform me of costs. No thanks, I'll do it myself!

Posted

Just at dealer (here in Michigan) to get my 2014 done - $235 labor and a $5 part........they had to keep the truck overnight to inform me of costs. No thanks, I'll do it myself!

 

 

WHAT!! $235 in labor only to do the retainer clip?!

Posted

Drop my 2016 off at the dealer for the second seat frame replacement in 18k miles.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

save yourself $230 and do the hose clamp trick...

I did this a long time ago. No more issues.

 

Bootleg but effective.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I did this a long time ago. No more issues.

 

Bootleg but effective.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Whats the hose clamp trick?

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

Just a question so the black retainer one per seat, goes on the white clip that is on the side without the seat motor, by the door?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...